Climbs / Index

Trad climbs

Ordered by the number of ascents recorded.

All Boulder problems 3,307 Trad climbs 2,600 Sport routes 2,183 Deep water solos 104 Aid Climbs 61 Boulder problems (indoor) 29 Alpine 24 Traverses 19 High Mountain 18
Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Impulse Trad climb E8 4
Inshallah Factor Trad climb E4 4

Fr6c or ED1

References

[1] https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/57076/fr/djebel-rum-sommet-e-inshallah-factor

Insomnia Trad climb E4 4
Internationale Trad climb E7 4
Is Not Always Pasqua? Trad climb E9 4
Jenny Wren Trad climb E5 4
Judge Jules Trad climb E8 4
Kipling Groove Trad climb HVS 4

So named because it's "ruddy 'ard", as in Rudyard Kipling.

Living in Oxford Trad climb E7 4
Lubyanka Trad climb E3 4
M35 (A35) Trad climb E6 4
Margins of the Mind Trad climb E8 4

Originally E7, but a candidate for the UK's first E8, according to second ascentionist Nick Dixon. Now rated E8 in the 2025 Llanberis guide, the route is said to contain 7c/+ climbing in a very serious position. An astounding ascent for 1984, climbed after a cursory abseil inspection by John Redhead. [1]

Dave Towse:

Clipped into the belay bolt, I watched Johnny as the evening quickly slipped away. He couldn't seem to commit himself to the move above the poor peg, so l shouted up some encouragement. He went for it, snatching the creaking flake above, the crucial stopper 1 in his mouth. In the failing light he couldn't locate the placement. In extremis, he screamed, "You've let me down Dave you bastard, you've let me down." Like some T.V. game, macabre in concept, I played with Johnny's life, and talked his hand to the small hole for the runner. [2]

References

[1] https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/clogwyn-duarddu-margins-of-the-mind

[2] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Guidebook, 2004

[2] https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/clogwyn-duarddu-margins-of-the-mind

Marrow Bone Jelly Trad climb E7 4

Apparently named because the route is between Psycho, Adrenaline Rush and Little Cenotaph, and PAL was a dogfood at the time which contained marrowbone jelly. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/boulder-problem-names-climbing-history.34883/post-721689

Mayan Skies Trad climb E7 4

Originally established with four bolt runners and a bolted belay. These were later removed and the climb re-led in a single pitch by Gary Gibson.

Mean Streak Trad climb E6 4
Minaret Trad climb E8 4
Monster Crack Trad climb E4 (approx) 4

XS.

Moon Madness Trad climb E7 4
Nandralone Trad climb E8 4
No Way Jose Trad climb E8 4

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