Boulder problems

V11/12

A highball boulder problem. Also given E9 7b elsewhere.

Shadowplay is a legendary boulder, the topic of many stories and debates, which was once considered to be one of the UK’s and the world’s hardest, dashing all attempts at a repeat from the best in the country. Dan Varian concluded the problem was significantly harder than anything else in the UK, and in later years grew suspicious of Gaskins’ claims, becoming one of his most outspoken critics.

In 2015 Sam Davenhall posted two pictures to his Instagram claiming to have done the second move, though the validity of these claims has been questioned.

As it stands, it’s unknown on the state of hold breakages or the possibility of a repeat, with in recent years the UK producing many world class talents who have climbed up to 9A being unable to make any impression on this boulder. Will Bosi took a brief look in 2023, and concluded that it could be possible but certainly harder than 8C. Lakes-born Aidan Roberts also dedicated some effort to trying the boulder with little success, finding it to be significantly harder than Burden of Dreams (9A), which he had put time into. He added Shadow Women (8C) in 2023 which starts for Shadowplay but links into Little Women (8B+)

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/no-longer-taboo-to-ask-for-proof.21378/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/64joMItcyMyxTLNOPqc6zOL7cvk5z3Igru_pk0/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7AoI8zN6cA

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IPqdiBwPSU

[5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUFM5o3j6YU&list=RDMUFM5o3j6YU&start_radio=1

Very unlikely to have been climbed.

References

[1] Aidan Roberts - Shallow Waters (2023)

A hold broke in 2016, making the problem harder