Dave Cuthbertson

Also known as: Cubby

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Murray Hamilton

Dave Cuthbertson is an extremely influential Scottish climber who was operating at his peak in the 1980s. He was responsible for some of the hardest routes of the era, for example his route Requiem was established in 1983 and features ~8a climbing on trad gear, making it the hardest route in the UK at the time.

Contributors
TdG
70 contributions since 15th August 2025.
38 contributions since 8th August 2021.
2 contributions since 12th July 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Murray Hamilton

Dave Cuthbertson is an extremely influential Scottish climber who was operating at his peak in the 1980s. He was responsible for some of the hardest routes of the era, for example his route Requiem was established in 1983 and features ~8a climbing on trad gear, making it the hardest route in the UK at the time.

Contributors
TdG
70 contributions since 15th August 2025.
38 contributions since 8th August 2021.
2 contributions since 12th July 2025.

Podcasts


Library


Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

39 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Statement of Youth 8a Lead | worked

Due to some miscommunication with Chris Gore Dave thought the correct style was to place all the draws on every attempt, leading to a slightly longer than expected redpoint process! [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
County Ethics First ascent. 7C+ Lead | worked 1990
Monty Python's Flying Circus First ascent. 6C Boulder | worked 1977
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

A hugely impressive ascent for it's time featuring extremely hard climbing (comparable to 8a sport) on trad gear.

Looking back now with hindsight Im quite pleased I did it trying it ground up...I'd get to my high point, touch the holds above and then lower back to the ground...A sort of extended yo-yo style. [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson

[2] On The Edge Issue 104, page 10

With side-runners.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 16 /library/11111/mountain-112

Cleaned on an ab rope but not practiced.

References

[1] Climber August 1997, page 6

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DOGkIDmDOcS/

Gone With the Wind E7 Lead | worked 1982

FA Pitch 1 Pete Whillance & Derek Jamieson 31 July 1980; Pitches 2&3 Dave Cuthbertson & Kev Howett May 1984

Strawberries E7 Lead | worked 1986

Several pegs. A 4' sling was pre-placed on the otherwise difficult to clip 3rd peg for the FA

Yes, Yes! First ascent. E7 Lead | worked Sep 1997

With Jo George

Undertow First ascent. E7 Lead | worked
Wild Country First ascent. E6 Lead | worked 1979
Scarab E6 Lead 1980
In Loving Memory First ascent. E6 Lead 1981

With Roy Williamson. After abseil inspection.

After abseil inspection

The Handren Effect First ascent. E6 Lead | worked Apr 1983

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 14 /library/11111/mountain-112

The Screaming Abdabs First ascent. E6 Lead 22nd Jun 1988
Mega Tsunami First ascent. E6 Lead Jun 2001
Circe E5 Lead 1980
Lady Charlotte First ascent. E5 Lead 1980
Rest and Be Thankful First ascent. E5 Lead 25th Apr 1980
Nijinski First ascent. E5 Lead 1982
Just a Little Tease First ascent. E5 Lead Jun 1984

Originally graded E6 6a

An early onsight ascent.

The reputation that went with Right Wall then was massive...I did the route fine. In fact the hardest part was, there was chalk all over the place, and I ended up partly in Lord of the Flies...I got to the top and I thought "Hmm, Scottish E4"! [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson

The Painted Wall First ascent. E4 Lead 5th May 1985
Marjorie Razorblade First ascent. E3 Lead 1977
Lady Jane First ascent. E2 Lead Jul 1977
The Flytrap First ascent. E2 Alternate Leads | onsight 16th Apr 1978
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade