Alex Megos

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• Change Log

Alex became the third person in the world to climb 9b+ with this ascent (after Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma).

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/05/perfecto_mundo_9b+_first_ascent_by_alex_megos-71571

[3] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1132511353555507

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-perfecto-mundo-margalef-9b-plus-interview.html

Alex initially suggested 9c but after a (relatively) quick repeat from Stefano Ghisolfi (who found some new beta and suggested a downgrade to 9b+) Alex adjusted his suggestion down to 9b+.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CDjw8CqK3KJ

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COuxNFuAS1Q

I was really at my limit. Especially because I hadn't really worked out all sequences perfectly yet. I hadn't even managed to send either of the two sections separately. The route is incredibly pumpy and I was often really near to dropping off. I was in it for at least 45 minutes, perhaps an hour.

...

I'd also like to emphasize [sic] again what a visionary achievement it was for Adam [Ondra] to free this route 12 years ago. Don't forget, I also have the benefit of videos and all the beta, that helped me a lot. If, like Adam, you have no idea whether it will work in the first place, then a project like this can seem completely impossible in the beginning. His really was a really awesome ascent!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C--ypMjC7xA/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-climbs-change-9b-plus-flatanger-just-5-days.html

[3] https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-alex-megos-change-olympics/

[4]https://www.instagram.com/p/C_rCZ3jiaRi/

Alex's first of the grade.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1057809127692397

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9H8gcpZhss

Alex used slightly different beta to Will (taking a wide pinch).

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWi9rQKspaj/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CUvvxcr1EU

Interestingly Alex struggled with La Capella, saying he found it harder than both King Capella and La Furia de Jabali.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXeXIXHrmpx/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsTeCJ2XAb0

https://www.instagram.com/p/CgrxsJ0qkKM/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNo8Xd7bANo

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CjlJa5_qrH2/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwjykRehg7M

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-completes-the-full-journey-9b-margalef.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1uQuUGtsgJ/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1w8uMKNeun/

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alex-megos-interview-siurana-sleeping-lion-second-ascent.html

[4] https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/alex-megos-hace-la-primera-repeticion-de-sleeping-lion-y-la-deja-en-9b/

[5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5wpse9w2eg

[6] https://www.climbing.com/news/alex-megos-sleeping-lion/

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sV0d9N9lArE

The same day as climbing The Illusionist.

I think Move was definitely upper end 9b (I'd give it 9b/+) and Illusionist rather soft for the grade (due to the new kneebar beta). I climbed both routes with two kneepads and at this point I'd like to give props to Adam Ondra for making the FA's of those routes without kneepads. The actual crux of Move doesn't change for me, but to get to the crux is definitely easier with kneepads. Absolutely inspiring that Adam did the FA more than 10 years ago 🙌🏼. He could have given it 9b+ without kneepads in my opinion. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_gNnZOClaa/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_8LuJwinlt/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DE0ExAksjuC/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DE-J8ZfM46F/

[3] https://woguclimbing.com/alex-megos-realiza-primera-ascension-el-touareg-blanco/

[4] https://fanatic-climbing.com/alex-megos-libere-tuareg-blanco-9b-a-margalef-alex-megos-frees-tuareg-blanco-9b-at-margalef-intw/

[5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPov-kJ9S_I

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/corona_9a+_by_megos-68050

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/posts/440127572793892

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/10/megos_climbs_supernova_9a+b_frankenjuras_hardest-70015

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/supercrackinette_9a+_first_ascent_by_alex_megos-70740

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BVmA7OZBT7v/

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-9a-redpoint-and-8c-onsight-at-margalef.html

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/alex-megos-realise-la-seconde-ascension-de-letrange-ivresse-des-lenteurs-9a-second-ascent-of-letrange-ivresse-des-lenteurs-9a-by-alex-megos/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvQvqiQwbvY

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/COD4HL9hyHz/

[2] Footage from an earlier attempt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYmtaitHdWA

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4F7nvstKb/

[2] https://youtu.be/P7WG0lUopY4

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8tmFnLjna/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkHILN5Lf-t/

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj1A34ir_wA/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DIW2FlzMVdU/

The first ever onsight of a 9a. Doubly impressive as up until that point the hardest route Alex had climbed was 9a and the hardest route he had onsighted was 8b+.

Alex had originally planned to try La Rambla Extension but couldn't find the route from the topo and so got on Estado instead. When he reached the point where the route splits with Kalea Borroka he nearly went up Kalea instead as he felt very pumped, fortunately he persevered!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ryd5hG9EC2A

Alex's first new route in the Frankenjura.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-frees-frankenjura-classified-9a-.html

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-climbs-australias-first-9a.html

[2] https://www.onsight.com.au/2013/08/oz-gets-grade-35-9a/

In 2 hours!

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-the-action-directe-frankenjura-interview.html

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?

References

[1] https://www.frankenjura.com/klettern/news/artikel/989

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/03/alex_megos_repeats_flat_mountain_9a+-69612

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEHebU6RtG0

[2] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/730615073745139/?type=3

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/alex_megos_repeats_northern_lights_9a-70498

[2]https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/732079860265327/?type=3

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/773706999435946

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/05/the_man_that_follows_hell_9a+_in_five_tries_by_megos-68936

I felt really bad warming up. Got pumped on a 6c. Felt weak. Didn't want to try the 9a because of that. Did an 8a for second warm up and still didn't feel good.

Then Claudia Ghisolfi (Stefano's sister) talked me into trying it.

Since there were not many options either. I just thought "Ah whatever. Nothing to lose."

Marcello Bombardi was belaying me.

I climbed the first 8c part quite well, but got quite pumped as well.Managed to rest a little bit before the last part. An 8m long 45 degree head wall with big moves on incut crimps. Got the sequence right, and somehow found myself on top. With a few difficulties at the end to clip the anchor because I couldn't find the top jug.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/tct_second_9a_onsight_by_alex_megos-71104

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1120128374793805

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFIbe3YqEfL/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/09/9a_flash_for_alex_megos_in_arco-72486

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSHUfh3z3tE

I had a lot of information about the route. It's not very long, just three quickdraws in its 7 or 8 meters. Very similar to climbing in the Frankenjura. Two people were climbing there, and Roland explained all the move, went up and cleaned the holds, and then belayed me. I knew exactly what to do, and it worked out pretty well I’d say. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-9a-flash-on-intermezzo-xy-gelost-at-plombergstein-austria.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUIeGmUM3Ex/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjqJ-FNEUAs

Today I had a look at the harder version called "Meiose" and I have to say, the way Pirmin Bertle climbed it, it is 9a+. That's not the way it makes sense to me though as it eliminates some holds that are totally in reach and in the line too. I did climb route (in my eyes) and clipped the same line of quickdraws, but I used very different beta and also different holds for some parts. I just did it the way it seemed logical to me. The way I did it was around 9a, but it has nothing to do with the original beta Pirmin used. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUinA5bM6hV/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVujk0EsU-J/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXgT7SUyBlo

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNi1hHNK8nY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXb1m2zLJJo/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyeLUMhMtCT/

Can't believe I got through the whole route after checking it out once. It was a proper fight with bad beta and two kneepads for the first time ever! Never managed to actually climb any route with two pads on. I always got too annoyed and took them off half way up. Watching some skilled kneebar geeks is good practice for me to keep improving. I'll get there eventually 😅.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_Gcpn4CRqU/

The same day as climbing Move.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_gNnZOClaa/

The day after making the first ascent of El Touareg Blanco.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DE7lI-Dse8c/

Alex's first flash of the grade.

References

[1] https://dmmwales.com/Journal/December-2012/Megos-impresses-in-the-States

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/731664970306816/?type=3

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/731664970306816/?type=3

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-9a-redpoint-and-8c-onsight-at-margalef.html

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUinA5bM6hV/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CqJX2FLM1Ad/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FzVjIGRs2I

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DIeOo1TC4e2/

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-frees-frankenjura-classified-9a-.html

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-frees-frankenjura-classified-9a-.html

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/93236289#=

Second go.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DGyRMAEsgMa/

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/interview-alex-megos-de-passage-a-buoux-interview-alex-megos-about-his-buoux-trip/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DHB9GVyMMYY/

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/93236289#=

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCvCFmKu6EZ/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/12/montecore_8c_and_riot_act_8b+_by_megos-69341

[2] https://vimeo.com/112911009

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdMsY5st2J8

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/07/alex_megos_repeats_the_finnish_line_at_the_coop_8c-71201

[2] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1043566919116618

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBS6dzEq9hk

Originally given 8B by Alex, but has since been upgraded to 8B+ by locals.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/alex_megos_climbs_new_8b_at_porth_ysgo_wales-68080

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jaGaZZJQW8

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YJh5ZRHg58

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/01/updated_with_commentsalex_megos_climbs_lucid_dreaming_8c-69468

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/alex_megos_hits_wales-70511

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/alex_megos_hits_wales-70511

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BGoSc7hyGw9/?taken-by=alexandermegos

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BGoSc7hyGw9/?taken-by=alexandermegos

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwkq_XesOkP

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwkq_XesOkP

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwkq_XesOkP

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzCG-v1LVcV/

References

[1] https://youtu.be/FwtCbjhu-wI?t=7

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/alex_megos_hits_wales-70511

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/alex_megos_hits_wales-70511

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cv9XlOFusE

A very impressive effort given Alex had done very little trad climbing.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/08/the_path_514ar_trad_flash_by_alex_megos-70630

[2] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/767732296700083

References

[1] https://www.onsight.com.au/2013/08/oz-gets-grade-35-9a/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BGoSc7hyGw9/?taken-by=alexandermegos

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BGoSc7hyGw9/?taken-by=alexandermegos

References

[1] https://youtu.be/FwtCbjhu-wI?t=7