Initially climbed as an audacious multi-day aid ascent by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. John Arran and Dave Turnbull then free climbed a variation on the line which then became known as Longhope Route. Dave MacLeod then straightened out the free line to something closer to the original aid line by climbing a very hard pitch up a thin crack line that was originally aided.
7 recorded ascents.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ed Drummond | Aid | worked | Jul 1970 | |
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First ascent.
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| Oliver Hill | Aid | worked | Jul 1970 | |
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First ascent.
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| Dave MacLeod | Lead | worked | 21st Jun 2011 | |
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First ascent.
First free ascent. https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2011/06/longhope-direct.html |
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| James McHaffie | Alternate Leads | worked | 25th May 2013 | |
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Swapping leads with Ben Bransby. James led the crucial crux pitch. References[1] https://vimeo.com/67457960 [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/long_hope_repeated_-_mchaffie_and_bransby-68088 |
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| Ben Bransby | Alternate Leads | worked | 25th May 2013 | |
| Alex Moore | Alternate Leads | worked | 25th May 2022 | |
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Alex and partner Robbie Philips swapped leads on the lower section. Robbie then lead the crux pitch placing the gear before abbing the pitch so Alex could also lead it (on Robbie's gear, to save time). While practicing the crux pitch on a previous day Alex took a 30m fall, snapping 2 wires before stopping level with the belay! |
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| Robbie Phillips | Alternate Leads | worked | 25th May 2022 | E10 |
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Robbie and partner Alex Moore swapped leads on the lower section. Robbie then lead the crux pitch placing the gear before abbing the pitch so Alex could also lead it (on Robbie's gear, to save time). References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CeBHtZespew/ [2] Not a Hope in Hoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5O_iysYwj0 |
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