Longhope Route Direct | E9 Trad climb at St Johns Head

UKClimbing.com

See also Longhope Route.

Initially climbed as an audacious multi-day aid ascent by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. John Arran and Dave Turnbull then free climbed a variation on the line which then became known as Longhope Route. Dave MacLeod then straightened out the free line to something closer to the original aid line by climbing a very hard pitch up a thin crack line that was originally aided.

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

James McHaffie
Added at 07:02 on 09 February 2021
Robbie Phillips
Added at 16:11 on 22 November 2022
Robbie Phillips
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:05 on 26 May 2022

Ascents

7 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ed Drummond Aid | worked Jul 1970
First ascent.
Oliver Hill Aid | worked Jul 1970
First ascent.
Dave MacLeod Lead | worked 21st Jun 2011
Ben Bransby Alternate Leads | worked 25th May 2013
James McHaffie Alternate Leads | worked 25th May 2013
Alex Moore Alternate Leads | worked 25th May 2022

Alex and partner Robbie Philips swapped leads on the lower section. Robbie then lead the crux pitch placing the gear before abbing the pitch so Alex could also lead it (on Robbie's gear, to save time).

While practicing the crux pitch on a previous day Alex took a 30m fall, snapping 2 wires before stopping level with the belay!

Robbie Phillips Alternate Leads | worked 25th May 2022 E10

Robbie and partner Alex Moore swapped leads on the lower section. Robbie then lead the crux pitch placing the gear before abbing the pitch so Alex could also lead it (on Robbie's gear, to save time).

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CeBHtZespew/

[2] Not a Hope in Hoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5O_iysYwj0