Greenspit | E9/8b Trad climb at Rosone - Fornolosa Crags

More

• Change Log
• Threads

First ascent. Pre-placed gear.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/greenspit-valle-dellorco-for-didier-berthod.html

[2] https://vimeo.com/233966641

Placing the gear on lead.

Second ascent. 2 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/nicolas-favresse-repeats-greenspit-and-itaca-nel-sole-in-valle-dell-orco-italy.html

Third ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/5897862

Pre-placed gear.

With a couple of pieces of gear pre-placed and after watching his partner Laurence on the start of the route.

Haston:

If I climb well, make no mistakes, I sometimes onsight F8a. I have done the odd F8a+ and maybe F8b, but last year I began to think I had a better level and might achieve more if I got my act together, and was really lucky and really wanted it. Wanting or being hungry is key and has a lot to do with onsighting. Nowadays I'm a bit too mellow or simply I don't need it, maybe too much risk of hurting a finger is always at the back of my mind. The thing about Greenspit was that because I have lots of experience doing cracks, I thought I could do a good job and I did. […]

In my opinion, although it is hard to tell when you do some thing first time, it was probably F8b max. It fit me pretty well although my hands were a bit too big, you know cracks are very morpho, size is important to critical. There's no danger, although Laurence took a bit of a fall when she pulled a cam trying to lead it. I'd say it's like a 5.12 crack to a V8 move, a bit on the powerful side, but nothing really that tricky. In English if you like, bottom end E6 crack to a 6c sequence.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/12/stevie_haston_crushes_greenspit-50641

Second go.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/233966641

First female ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CGVqX2-geGP/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLCxeXHMYzs

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr_GbHktDas/?img_index=1

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DB9GnFWo7XN/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C6DXkC8t-6o/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C8NLu9WI27u/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrhgwUjT1Ls

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DAyWKiUN-fx/?img_index=1

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/laura-pineau-enchaine-greenspit-laura-pineau-sends-greenspit-interview/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ir2YC53l5y8

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCEnX6XN_Lf/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DO6NA2xiD-8/?img_index=1

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQ43cmBgLnL/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSSSWjFtr2g