Requiem | E8/8a Trad climb at Dumbarton Rock

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First ascent.

A hugely impressive ascent for it's time featuring extremely hard climbing (comparable to 8a sport) on trad gear.

Looking back now with hindsight Im quite pleased I did it trying it ground up...I'd get to my high point, touch the holds above and then lower back to the ground...A sort of extended yo-yo style. [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson

[2] On The Edge Issue 104, page 10

Second ascent.

Third ascent.

3rd ascent I think. Story went he thought he was the second, got to the top and saw JD scrawled at the top of the route.

References

[1] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/sonnie_trotter_bags_second_ascent_of_rhapsody-305532

Fourth ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 73

Fifth ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 104, page 13

First ground-up ascent

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/niall_mcnair+requiem_-_persistence_of_vision-9642

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yt8qps4aFFc

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/niall_mcnair+requiem_-_persistence_of_vision-9642

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/niall_mcnair+requiem_-_persistence_of_vision-9642

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/extreme-trad-climbing-in-scotland-gerome-pouvreau-and-florence-pinet-repeat-rhapsody-and-requiem.html