Akira

9a Sport route

Initially graded 9b, subsequent ascentionists have said 9a. To complicate things even further, the repeat ascentionists chose not use kneebars but did suggest that using them would lower the grade further.

Holds may have come and go on the first part of the route:

Can confirm via a friend that worked Akira pretty hard that the initial section used to be 8B. His breakdown was 8B to a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket into a second 8B to the lip. He never tried the final rope section (8a?) as he thought it was pointless. [1] [2] [3]

Dani Andrada:

I almost did it [Akira]. I fell at the last move of the boulder crux. I find that section hard for 7C as Bouin and Martinez have now proposed. It's a boulder of about eight moves, which can be 8A or 8A+ in my opinion. I think the proposal of 9a is correct taking into account that they may have made some moves with kneebars as well. I went 7 or 8 days to try it. The place is quite ugly and I had a hard time finding someone to accompany me. The route is in the same style as Ali Hulk in the Cave of Ali Baba, in Rodellar, but the spot is so ugly that it is difficult to motivate oneself to go there. [4]

https://www.grimper.com/news-25-ans-apres-akira-enfin-repetee-etions

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/11/fred_rouhlings_akira_repeated_-_twice-72635

https://www.instagram.com/p/CH52khijvz7/

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg621712.html#msg621712

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg621740.html#msg621740

[3] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg621741.html#msg621741

[4] https://woguclimbing.com/seb-bouin-lucien-martinez-repiten-akira-opinan-9a/

Media

Sébastien Bouin
Added at 08:03 on 05 March 2021
Sébastien Bouin
Added at 10:02 on 13 February 2021
Sébastien Bouin
Added at 08:03 on 05 March 2021
Sébastien Bouin
Added at 16:02 on 02 February 2021
Joshua Forteau
Added at 15:03 on 08 March 2021

Ascents

6 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date
Fred Rouhling Lead (Worked) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)

Fred suggested 9b (at a time when there were no established 9a+s). A bold move!

An ascent (and grade) that caused a lot of controversy at the time.

https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/

Lucien Martinez Lead (Worked) 22 Nov 2020
Sébastien Bouin Lead (Worked) 22 Nov 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gb86hS3omuA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuMxIC6qdp8?t=367

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Hol4h2XiYM

Joshua Forteau Lead (Worked) 01 Mar 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_1B11jQOiA

Yuji Hirayama Lead (Did not finish)
Dai Koyamada Lead (Did not finish)