El Niño | 8a+ Multi-pitch

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25 pitches. See also Pineapple Express Variation.

Only the third ever route to be free climbed on El Capitan, after Salathé Wall and The Nose.

Contributors: remus
Added 13th January 2023. Last updated 11th September 2024.

Ascents

4 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Alex Huber Alternate Leads | worked 1998
First ascent. With Thomas Huber.
Thomas Huber Alternate Leads | worked 1998
First ascent. With Alex Huber.
Leo Houlding Lead | worked Oct 1998
Second ascent.

An incredible ascent as Leo was extremely close to onsighting the entire route at a time when any free ascent on El Cap was notable.

However, on the first pitch he grabbed a quickdraw at the end of a runout section on his first attempt before lowering back to the start of the pitch and reclimbing it. He also pulled on the first bolt of the second pitch to clean and inspect the holds on the hard section off the belay before then climbing it clean on his first attempt. [1]

Undoubtedly the best climb and greatest adventure I'd ever been on by several orders of magnitude.

References

[1] Alpine Journal 2002 50-53 Houlding El Nino

Hayden Kennedy Lead | worked 2008