El Niño | 8a+ Multi-pitch

MountainProject.com

25 pitches.
Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Angus Kille
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:11 on 15 November 2023
Angus Kille
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:11 on 15 November 2023

Ascents

6 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Thomas Huber Alternate Leads | worked 1998
First ascent. With Alex Huber.
Alex Huber Alternate Leads | worked 1998
First ascent. With Thomas Huber.
Leo Houlding Lead | worked Oct 1998
Second ascent.

An incredible ascent as Leo was extremely close to onsighting the entire route at a time when any free ascent on El Cap was notable.

However, on the first pitch he grabbed a quickdraw at the end of a runout section on his first attempt before lowering back to the start of the pitch and reclimbing it. He also pulled on the first bolt of the second pitch to clean and inspect the holds on the hard section off the belay before then climbing it clean on his first attempt. [1]

Undoubtedly the best climb and greatest adventure I'd ever been on by several orders of magnitude.

References

[1] Alpine Journal 2002 50-53 Houlding El Nino

Hayden Kennedy Lead | worked 2008
Sébastien Berthe Lead | ground up Apr 2022

An extremely impressive ascent. Seb had never been on the route before and came very close to onsighting it, taking a fall on the last hard pitch.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/seb-berthe-breezes-up-el-nino-el-capitan-yosemite.html

Angus Kille Lead | worked 14th Nov 2023