Dalliance | 8b+ Sport route at Kilnsey

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First ascent.

Some years prior to making the first ascent Dave resorted to removing the hangers and smearing vaseline on the top holds to fend off any attempts by a visiting frenchman!

Martin Berzins, commenting in 1991:

The route remains unclimbed, and and neither Pegg nor Tribout comes out of the affair with honour.

While Tribout should perhaps have respected Pegg's attempts, it is also the case that the term ‘project' has grown to mean (though not in this case), "a route I've bolted up and will probably only be able to do in two years time." The farcical situation has been reached of people who are able to do the first ascent jumping off just below the lower off point so that the person who bolted the route can eventually claim the first ascent! Perhaps the truth is that no one owns a piece of rock and what is not owned cannot be stolen. [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 15 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141

2 sessions.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

With this ascent Paul became the third scot to climb 8b+.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 100, page 10

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C9u7kEetp6J/

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/