duncancritchley

	Name	Type	# Changes	Last Updated	First Updated
1	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	ascent	33	9th October 2025	8th October 2025
2	Muir Wall	climb	27	10th November 2025	9th October 2025
3	Frank Sacherer	climber	27	10th October 2025	9th October 2025
4	El Corazón	climb	26	14th November 2025	13th November 2025
5	Steve Roper	climber	24	10th October 2025	10th October 2025
6	John Salathé's ascent of Lost Arrow Chimney	ascent	24	9th October 2025	9th October 2025
7	Royal Robbins's ascent of Steck - Salathé	ascent	23	10th October 2025	9th October 2025
8	Lynn Hill's ascent of Skytop Vandals	ascent	22	8th October 2025	8th October 2025
9	North America Wall	climb	21	14th October 2025	14th October 2025
10	Heart Route	climb	21	14th November 2025	9th July 2025

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
1821	9th October 2025	13:32:33	duncancritchley	climb	Muir Wall	notes_pretty
Before `None` After `<p>Two free versions, preMuir and The Shaft, both with some variations in line.</p>`
1822	9th October 2025	13:32:33	duncancritchley	climb	Muir Wall	notes
Before `None` After `Two free versions, preMuir and The Shaft, both with some variations in line.` Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1 +1 @@ - +Two free versions, preMuir and The Shaft, both with some variations in line.`
1823	9th October 2025	13:32:33	duncancritchley	climb	Muir Wall	grade_id
Before `None` After `430`
1824	9th October 2025	13:32:33	duncancritchley	climb	Muir Wall	ukc_url
Before `None` After `https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/el_capitan_ca_yosemite_and_tuolumne-8023/muir_wall-59012`
1825	9th October 2025	13:32:33	duncancritchley	climb	Muir Wall	climb_type
Before `None` After `8`
1826	9th October 2025	13:32:33	duncancritchley	climb	Muir Wall	climb_name
Before `None` After `Muir Wall`
1827	9th October 2025	13:25:19	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	notes_pretty
Before <p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p> After <p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p>
1828	9th October 2025	13:25:19	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	notes
Before TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/) [2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339) [3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/) After TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/) [2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339) [3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. +TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. ### References`
1829	9th October 2025	13:24:55	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	notes_pretty
Before `<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339</a></p>` After <p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p>
1830	9th October 2025	13:24:55	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	notes
Before `### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/) [2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)` After TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/) [2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339) [3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,5 +1,9 @@ +TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. + ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/) -[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339) +[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339) + +[3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/)
1831	9th October 2025	11:57:32	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	Date of Birth
Before `None` After `1936-04-26`
1832	9th October 2025	11:45:38	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	Features In (Youtube Vid)
Before `None` After `https://youtu.be/cP8GMVoEpsA?si=cwgNkpDUU12sMKI_`
1833	9th October 2025	11:41:14	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) +Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:
1834	9th October 2025	11:41:14	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) </p> <blockquote> <p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>): </p> <blockquote> <p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
1835	9th October 2025	11:40:36	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,10 +1,9 @@ -Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] +Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) +> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] +[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: -> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. - -[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) - +> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References
1836	9th October 2025	11:40:36	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) </p> <blockquote> <p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
1837	9th October 2025	11:38:46	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. <a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
1838	9th October 2025	11:38:46	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,8 @@ Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] + > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. + [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)
1839	9th October 2025	11:38:14	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,7 +1,6 @@ Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. - [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)
1840	9th October 2025	11:38:14	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. <a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

None

After

<p>Two free versions, preMuir and The Shaft, both with some variations in line.</p>

Before

None

After

Two free versions, preMuir and The Shaft, both with some variations in line.

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1 @@

-
+Two free versions, preMuir and The Shaft, both with some variations in line.

Before

None

After

430

Before

None

After

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/el_capitan_ca_yosemite_and_tuolumne-8023/muir_wall-59012

Before

None

After

8

Before

None

After

Muir Wall

Before

<p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p>

After

<p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p>

Before

TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/)

[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)

[3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/)

After

TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/)

[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)

[3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. 

+TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. 

 

 ### References

Before

<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339</a></p>

After

<p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p>

Before

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/)

[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)

After

TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/)

[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)

[3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,5 +1,9 @@

+TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. 

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/)

 

-[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)
+[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)

+

+[3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/)

Before

None

After

1936-04-26

Before

None

After

https://youtu.be/cP8GMVoEpsA?si=cwgNkpDUU12sMKI_

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 
> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 


### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): 
> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 


### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 

+Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): 

 > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

 

 [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) </p>
<blockquote>
<p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>): </p>
<blockquote>
<p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]


> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 
> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 


### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,10 +1,9 @@

-Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

+Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 

+> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

 

+[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

 

-> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

-

-[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

-

+> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 

 

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) </p>
<blockquote>
<p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
<a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]


> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,8 @@

 Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

 

+

 > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

+

 [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,7 +1,6 @@

 Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

 

 > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

-

 [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
<a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

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