Heart Route | E8/8a+ Trad climb on El Capitan

United States / California / Mariposa County

Quick Info

Grade E8 / 8a+
Type Trad climb
Crag El Capitan
Country United States 🇺🇸
Rock type Granite
History
Recorded ascents 7

Quick Info

Grade E8 / 8a+
Type Trad climb
Crag El Capitan
Country United States 🇺🇸
Rock type Granite
History
Recorded ascents 7
Free version of Heart Route (A4).

5.13c or 5.13b, V10.

A variation, Light Heart (5.13b/8a), avoids the crux dyno. on pitch 6 by climbing Freeblast or similar to the heart ledges.

Contributors
102 contributions since 9th July 2025.
2 contributions since 16th January 2026.

Pics + Vids

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Ascents

7 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

Gobright was able to free climb all the route bar the ~V10 dyno on pitch 6 aka The Dub Step.

First free ascent.
Third ascent. With Tommy Caldwell.
With Tobias Wolf.

'Light Heart' version avoiding Dub Step dyno on pitch 6.

With Oliver Schmidt.

'Light Heart' version via the Muir-blast start avoiding the Dub Step dyno.

References

[1] https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/2023/10/free-heart-route.html

Tommy Caldwell Lead | worked 5th-7th November 2024
With Connor Herson.
With Tommy Caldwell.