| From: | USA 🇺🇸 |
| Date of birth: | 3rd February 1935 |
| Age: | 82 years old |
| Date of death: | 14th March 2017 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Yvon Chouinard | |
| Tom Frost | |
| Chuck Pratt | |
| Joe Fitschen | |
Royal Robbins was an extremely influential climber from the USA in the late 1950s and 1960s. He was part of a generation of climbers who established Yosemite as a world class climbing destination and made first ascents and repeats of many now-famous routes there.
Robbins was also very influential in terms of the climbing style and ethics he espoused. Many of the values he championed, such as minimising reliance on fixed ropes, minimising the use of bolts and climbing from the ground up remain core to what is considered good style in modern big wall climbing. Together with Yvon Chouinard Robbins was an early proponent of the use of chocks over pitons as a means of minimising damage to the rock.
In later life Robbins struggled with arthritis in his hands which made climbing difficult. Because of this Robbins focused his energy on his business ventures and, later, on white water kayaking. He made first descents of several rivers in the US and further abroad.
[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CU4qXc5J8i7/
[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=6849687261751921&set=a.126453404075374
[3] Smart, D. (2023). Royal Robbins: The American Climber. United States: Mountaineers Books.
[4] Ament, P. (1998). Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age. United States: Stackpole Books.
[5] Robbins, R. (2010). To Be Brave: My Life. United Kingdom: Pink Moment Productions.
[6] Robbins, R. (2010). Fail Falling. United States: Pink Moment Press.
[7] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3ce65n5RTjNYnXYEBJAH1A?
5 recorded ascents.
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Nose | 8b+ | Aid | worked | 1960 | |
|
Second ascent. With Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost.
The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days. |
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| The Thimble | 7a+ | Lead | did not finish | ||
|
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Salathé Wall | E9 | Aid | worked | 1961 | |
|
First ascent. With Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost.
|
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| Human Fright | E1 | Lead | Jun 1952 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Regular Northwest Face | HVS | Aid | worked | 1957 | |
|
First ascent.
The first grade VI climb in North America. |
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|