| From | USA 🇺🇸 |
| Date of birth | 3rd Feb 1935 |
| Date of death | 14th Mar 2017 |
| Age | 82 years old |
| Gender | Male |
| Climbing | |
| Hardest Trad (Onsight) | E1 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Yvon Chouinard | |
| Tom Frost | |
| Chuck Pratt | |
| Joe Fitschen | |
| Liz Robbins | |
| TM Herbert | |
Royal Robbins was an extremely influential climber from the USA in the late 1950s and 1960s. He was part of a generation of climbers who established Yosemite as a world-class climbing destination and made first ascents and repeats of many now-famous routes there, such as the Salathé Wall (A2).
Robbins was also instrumental in defining an ethical approach to climbing that minimised reliance on fixed ropes, was sparing in the use of bolts, and championed climbing from the ground up. These values remain core to what is considered good style in modern big wall climbing. After visiting the UK and using nuts and chockstones for protection, Robbins, together with Yvon Chouinard, became an early proponent of 'clean climbing': the use of chocks over pitons as a means of minimising damage to the rock.
In later life, Robbins struggled with arthritis in his hands, which made climbing difficult. Because of this, Robbins focused his energy on his business ventures and, later, on whitewater kayaking. He made first descents of several rivers in the US and further afield.
[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CU4qXc5J8i7/
[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=6849687261751921&set=a.126453404075374
[3] Smart, D. (2023). Royal Robbins: The American Climber. United States: Mountaineers Books.
[4] Ament, P. (1998). Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age. United States: Stackpole Books.
[5] Robbins, R. (2010). To Be Brave: My Life. United Kingdom: Pink Moment Productions.
[6] Robbins, R. (2010). Fail Falling. United States: Pink Moment Press.
[7] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3ce65n5RTjNYnXYEBJAH1A
[8] https://archive.org/details/royalrobbins
[9] Interview with John Meek https://archive.org/details/RoyalRobbinsJohnMeekInterview_52
| From | USA 🇺🇸 |
| Date of birth | 3rd Feb 1935 |
| Date of death | 14th Mar 2017 |
| Age | 82 years old |
| Gender | Male |
| Climbing | |
| Hardest Trad (Onsight) | E1 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Yvon Chouinard | |
| Tom Frost | |
| Chuck Pratt | |
| Joe Fitschen | |
| Liz Robbins | |
| TM Herbert | |
Royal Robbins was an extremely influential climber from the USA in the late 1950s and 1960s. He was part of a generation of climbers who established Yosemite as a world-class climbing destination and made first ascents and repeats of many now-famous routes there, such as the Salathé Wall (A2).
Robbins was also instrumental in defining an ethical approach to climbing that minimised reliance on fixed ropes, was sparing in the use of bolts, and championed climbing from the ground up. These values remain core to what is considered good style in modern big wall climbing. After visiting the UK and using nuts and chockstones for protection, Robbins, together with Yvon Chouinard, became an early proponent of 'clean climbing': the use of chocks over pitons as a means of minimising damage to the rock.
In later life, Robbins struggled with arthritis in his hands, which made climbing difficult. Because of this, Robbins focused his energy on his business ventures and, later, on whitewater kayaking. He made first descents of several rivers in the US and further afield.
[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CU4qXc5J8i7/
[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=6849687261751921&set=a.126453404075374
[3] Smart, D. (2023). Royal Robbins: The American Climber. United States: Mountaineers Books.
[4] Ament, P. (1998). Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age. United States: Stackpole Books.
[5] Robbins, R. (2010). To Be Brave: My Life. United Kingdom: Pink Moment Productions.
[6] Robbins, R. (2010). Fail Falling. United States: Pink Moment Press.
[7] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3ce65n5RTjNYnXYEBJAH1A
[8] https://archive.org/details/royalrobbins
[9] Interview with John Meek https://archive.org/details/RoyalRobbinsJohnMeekInterview_52