Lynn Hill

Instagram.com | ifsc.results.info | en.wikipedia.org | lynnhillclimbing.com

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Date of birth: 3rd January 1961
Age: 63 years old
Height: 157 cm
Weight: 50 kg
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8

John Long:

I have been all over the world and have had the fortune of doing things with many special people, some famous, some anonymous. But the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill. The rest of us are just holding her rope. [2]

Hill has experienced only one major accident in her climbing career. On May 9, 1989, she fell during a climb in Buoux, after forgetting to tie in, she fell 85 ft (25 m) into a tree, and was knocked unconscious, dislocated her left elbow and broke a bone in her foot. She had been training hard for the World Cup and had to stop competing for a few months to recover; she was devastated to miss the first World Cup in the sport. However, only six weeks after her fall, she was back climbing.

References

[1] Half Dome, 1977

[2] https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/

[3] Portrait by Dean Fidelman, 1997 https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/

[4] Interview with Natalie Berry for UKClimbing.com March 2017 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151

[5] Interview with Hannah Morris, 2024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE

Contributors: LeodF (1 contributions since 13 Dec 2023), remus (14 contributions since 29 Dec 2020)
Added on 29th December 2020. Last updated on 15th October 2024.

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Date of birth: 3rd January 1961
Age: 63 years old
Height: 157 cm
Weight: 50 kg
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8

John Long:

I have been all over the world and have had the fortune of doing things with many special people, some famous, some anonymous. But the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill. The rest of us are just holding her rope. [2]

Hill has experienced only one major accident in her climbing career. On May 9, 1989, she fell during a climb in Buoux, after forgetting to tie in, she fell 85 ft (25 m) into a tree, and was knocked unconscious, dislocated her left elbow and broke a bone in her foot. She had been training hard for the World Cup and had to stop competing for a few months to recover; she was devastated to miss the first World Cup in the sport. However, only six weeks after her fall, she was back climbing.

References

[1] Half Dome, 1977

[2] https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/

[3] Portrait by Dean Fidelman, 1997 https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/

[4] Interview with Natalie Berry for UKClimbing.com March 2017 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151

[5] Interview with Hannah Morris, 2024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE

Contributors: LeodF (1 contributions since 13 Dec 2023), remus (14 contributions since 29 Dec 2020)
Added on 29th December 2020. Last updated on 15th October 2024.

Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 05:10 on 01 October 2024
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:06 on 22 June 2023
Added at 08:02 on 26 February 2021
Masse Critique (8b+)
Added at 17:11 on 20 November 2023
Chouca (8a+)
Added at 16:12 on 29 December 2020
The Nose (8b+, FA)
Added at 20:02 on 28 February 2021
The Nose (8b+, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
The Nose (8b+, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Masse Critique (8b+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:12 on 07 December 2021
The Nose (8b+, FA)
Added at 16:05 on 17 May 2021
Serpentine (8a)
Added at 08:02 on 26 February 2021
The Nose (8b+, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
The Nose (8b+, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
The Nose (8b+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:01 on 14 January 2022
Masse Critique (8b+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:03 on 29 March 2022

Ascents

11 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Date
1990 Masse Critique 8b+ Lead | worked 1990

Jean-Baptiste Tribout infamously said "no woman would ever climb a 8b+", in response Lynn flew to France and repeated Tribout's route, and in fewer tries than it took him! [1]

When people say 'it can’t be done', it makes the task all the more interesting.

With this ascent Lynn became the first woman to climb 8b+.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXLYhYUoz7d/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cbq2wlUrq9c/

[3] 1https://open.spotify.com/episode/0bDCW9JesYEdEdlzwEi8AM?TheS9A

1991 UIAA Worldcup - Wien 1991
World Cup
2nd 26th April 1991
1992 Simon 8a Lead | onsight 1992

With this ascent Lynn became the first woman to onsight 8a. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/

UIAA Worldcup - Zürich...
World Cup
3rd Lead (Women) 1st May 1992
UIAA Masters - Rock Ma...
Comp
1st Lead (Women) 1st September 1992
UIAA Worldcup - Kobe 1992
World Cup
2nd Lead (Women) 8th October 1992
UIAA Worldcup - Nürnbe...
World Cup
2nd Lead (Women) 30th October 1992
UIAA Worldcup - Birmin...
World Cup
1st Lead (Women) 11th December 1992
1993 The Nose 8b+ Lead | worked Sep 1993
First ascent.

A breakthrough free ascent of this iconic aid route. Lynn later went on to make the first in a day free ascent.

The magnificent beauty and historic significance of the line, as well as my own efforts to free it, then later freeing it in a day, made this ascent the most meaningful achievement of my entire climbing career.

Initially Lynn suggested a grade of 13b or 8a!

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/884132364986273

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/882411198491723

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/871458132920363

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/455131411219706

[5] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/336804179719097

[6] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4rlZGr7RN/

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS63AdRSnl8

1994 Mingus 8a Lead | onsight 1994
First ascent.

First free ascent.

The Nose 8b+ Lead | worked Between 19th Sep 1994 and 20th Sep 1994

Lynn started climbing at 10pm on the 19th September and finished climbing around 9pm on the 20th September, making it the first sub-24hr free ascent.

1995
1996
1997 The Great Arch E8 Alternate Leads | worked 1997
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
1998 Midnight Lightning 7B Boulder | worked 1998
First female ascent.

Lynn worked the mantel on a rope first.

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ Lead | worked 1998
First female ascent.
1999 Scarface 8b+ Lead | worked 1999
First female ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Nose 8b+ Lead | worked Sep 1993
First ascent.

A breakthrough free ascent of this iconic aid route. Lynn later went on to make the first in a day free ascent.

The magnificent beauty and historic significance of the line, as well as my own efforts to free it, then later freeing it in a day, made this ascent the most meaningful achievement of my entire climbing career.

Initially Lynn suggested a grade of 13b or 8a!

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/884132364986273

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/882411198491723

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/871458132920363

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/455131411219706

[5] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/336804179719097

[6] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4rlZGr7RN/

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS63AdRSnl8

Masse Critique 8b+ Lead | worked 1990

Jean-Baptiste Tribout infamously said "no woman would ever climb a 8b+", in response Lynn flew to France and repeated Tribout's route, and in fewer tries than it took him! [1]

When people say 'it can’t be done', it makes the task all the more interesting.

With this ascent Lynn became the first woman to climb 8b+.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXLYhYUoz7d/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cbq2wlUrq9c/

[3] 1https://open.spotify.com/episode/0bDCW9JesYEdEdlzwEi8AM?TheS9A

The Nose 8b+ Lead | worked Between 19th Sep 1994 and 20th Sep 1994

Lynn started climbing at 10pm on the 19th September and finished climbing around 9pm on the 20th September, making it the first sub-24hr free ascent.

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ Lead | worked 1998
First female ascent.
Scarface 8b+ Lead | worked 1999
First female ascent.
Chouca 8a+ Lead | worked
Mingus 8a Lead | onsight 1994
First ascent.

First free ascent.

Simon 8a Lead | onsight 1992

With this ascent Lynn became the first woman to onsight 8a. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/

Serpentine 8a Lead | worked
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Midnight Lightning 7B Boulder | worked 1998
First female ascent.

Lynn worked the mantel on a rope first.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Great Arch E8 Alternate Leads | worked 1997 E7
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade