Wall of Early Morning Light | A3 Multi-pitch at El Capitan

UKClimbing.com
24 pitches.

References

[1] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Contributors
duncancritchley
48 contributions since 8th October 2025.
remus
37 contributions since 9th March 2025.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

4 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Dean Caldwell Aid | ground up Between 23rd Oct 1970 and 19th Nov 1970
First ascent. With Warren Harding.

References

[1] Mountain 13 (1971), page 8

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-Fp_gpsULI
Warren Harding Aid | ground up Between 23rd Oct 1970 and 19th Nov 1970
First ascent. With Dean Caldwell.

References

[1] Mountain 13 (1971), page 8

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-Fp_gpsULI
Don Lauria Alternate Leads | ground up Between 30th Jan 1971 and 5th Feb 1971
Second ascent.
Royal Robbins Alternate Leads | ground up Between 30th Jan 1971 and 5th Feb 1971
Second ascent.

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to Lauria):

the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

TM Herbert's view of the ascent:

What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2].

References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.

[2] https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light