Name | Type | # Changes | Last Updated | First Updated | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuem2IYR27w | media | 15 | 18th November 2024 | 18th November 2024 |
2 | Lewis Roy's ascent of La Pequeña Mowgli | ascent | 14 | 18th November 2024 | 18th November 2024 |
3 | Hotel Supramonte | climb | 13 | 27th December 2023 | 7th December 2023 |
4 | Kai Whaley's ascent of Kintsugi | ascent | 12 | 28th October 2024 | 28th October 2024 |
5 | Cameron Hörst's ascent of One Hundred Proof | ascent | 11 | 9th December 2023 | 9th December 2023 |
6 | Chris Sharma's ascent of Vision Quest | ascent | 11 | 20th December 2024 | 20th December 2024 |
7 | Felipe Ho Foganholo's ascent of Joker | ascent | 11 | 31st October 2024 | 31st October 2024 |
8 | Jonathan Hörst's ascent of Valkyrie | ascent | 11 | 28th October 2024 | 28th October 2024 |
9 | Barbara Zangerl's ascent of Eternal Flame | ascent | 10 | 7th December 2023 | 7th December 2023 |
10 | Mike Adams's ascent of Jumpey Wooler | ascent | 10 | 25th October 2024 | 25th October 2024 |
Date | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
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1 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo | missing_right_to_reproduce | |
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false
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2 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo | url | |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo
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3 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/ | embed_code | |
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None
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4 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/ | missing_right_to_reproduce | |
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None
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false
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5 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/ | url | |
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None
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/
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6 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/ | embed_code | |
Before
None
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7 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/ | missing_right_to_reproduce | |
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false
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8 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/ | url | |
Before
None
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/
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9 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/ | embed_code | |
Before
None
After
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font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"> View this post on Instagram</div></div><div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"><div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"></div></div><div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; 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10 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/ | missing_right_to_reproduce | |
Before
None
After
false
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11 | 13th December 2023 | media | https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/ | url | |
Before
None
After
https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/
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12 | 13th December 2023 | ascent | Steve McClure's ascent of Mutation | notes | |
Before
A hugely impressive ascent for the time, and doubly so since it was only 3 years after Steve climbed his first 8th grade route ([Zeke the Freak](/climb/303/zeke-the-freak) in October 1995). Steve suggested 9a but it is now considered 9a+ which makes it the first of the grade in the UK and the first of the brade by a British person.
It took Steve 24 sessions over 4 years to make the first ascent.
> The first time I did that move from the ground, I did the route, but I only did the last move by the skin of my teeth. I'm pretty sure a gust of wind blew me up that last move...
### Steve's diary [2]
Below are some extracts from Steve's diary while he was attempting the route.
7th October 1998, day 22:
> Yet another failed day. Getting annoying now! Feel as though I should be doing better. Maybe I am getting a ‘head’ problem on ‘that’ move. Today I had 2 RP efforts, first go was the best, swinging over to the pinch but not getting the distance. 2nd go was rubbish. No psyche and hardly tried. Evo is feeling a path, but that cross is just a killer! Today I got [Myles (Gibson)](/climber/557/miles-gibson) up there for a look, and with his fingers his opinion on moves is really important. He found it nails too, and no info change really (would have been nice if he found an easier way!). He reckoned 8b at least for the extension if not more, so it means the route could be overall 9a. That’s probably why I’m not getting up it!
10th October 1998, day 23:
> THAT move FOUR times today! Excellent conditions. I’m wasting them! They will run out soon for sure. Not sure about the head problem except I expect to fail now. I set off knowing I’ll get to that move, and fall off that move. But I still think I’m trying hard enough, even on the move. Its just so momentum orientated. I need to have the movement pattern in my mind and not just try and static it. I’m sure it will go. Spent ages fiddling with the move and found perhaps a slightly easier way of swinging it, but only slightly, and probably not at all really. But that top section is still so hard. Today after each go I climbed the top section to keep it fresh. I could for sure drop that bit! Just need to keep plugging away.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/)
[2] Extracts from Steve's diary in the days leading up to making the first ascent [http://steve-mcclure.com/articles/155-mutation-a-bunch-of-happy-days-at-the-tor](http://steve-mcclure.com/articles/155-mutation-a-bunch-of-happy-days-at-the-tor)
[3] [Rupert Davies](/climber/214/rupert-davies) and Steve trying some moves and sequences on the route [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo)
[4] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/)
[5] Steve on the route in 2001, photo by Simon Carter [https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/)
After
A hugely impressive ascent for the time, and doubly so since it was only 3 years after Steve climbed his first 8th grade route ([Zeke the Freak](/climb/303/zeke-the-freak) in October 1995). Steve suggested 9a but it is now considered 9a+ which makes it the first of the grade in the UK and the first of the grade by a British person.
It took Steve 24 sessions over 4 years to make the first ascent.
> The first time I did that move from the ground, I did the route, but I only did the last move by the skin of my teeth. I'm pretty sure a gust of wind blew me up that last move...
### Steve's diary [2]
Below are some extracts from Steve's diary while he was attempting the route.
7th October 1998, day 22:
> Yet another failed day. Getting annoying now! Feel as though I should be doing better. Maybe I am getting a ‘head’ problem on ‘that’ move. Today I had 2 RP efforts, first go was the best, swinging over to the pinch but not getting the distance. 2nd go was rubbish. No psyche and hardly tried. Evo is feeling a path, but that cross is just a killer! Today I got [Myles (Gibson)](/climber/557/miles-gibson) up there for a look, and with his fingers his opinion on moves is really important. He found it nails too, and no info change really (would have been nice if he found an easier way!). He reckoned 8b at least for the extension if not more, so it means the route could be overall 9a. That’s probably why I’m not getting up it!
10th October 1998, day 23:
> THAT move FOUR times today! Excellent conditions. I’m wasting them! They will run out soon for sure. Not sure about the head problem except I expect to fail now. I set off knowing I’ll get to that move, and fall off that move. But I still think I’m trying hard enough, even on the move. Its just so momentum orientated. I need to have the movement pattern in my mind and not just try and static it. I’m sure it will go. Spent ages fiddling with the move and found perhaps a slightly easier way of swinging it, but only slightly, and probably not at all really. But that top section is still so hard. Today after each go I climbed the top section to keep it fresh. I could for sure drop that bit! Just need to keep plugging away.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/)
[2] Extracts from Steve's diary in the days leading up to making the first ascent [http://steve-mcclure.com/articles/155-mutation-a-bunch-of-happy-days-at-the-tor](http://steve-mcclure.com/articles/155-mutation-a-bunch-of-happy-days-at-the-tor)
[3] [Rupert Davies](/climber/214/rupert-davies) and Steve trying some moves and sequences on the route [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo)
[4] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/)
[5] Steve on the route in 2001, photo by Simon Carter [https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
-A hugely impressive ascent for the time, and doubly so since it was only 3 years after Steve climbed his first 8th grade route ([Zeke the Freak](/climb/303/zeke-the-freak) in October 1995). Steve suggested 9a but it is now considered 9a+ which makes it the first of the grade in the UK and the first of the brade by a British person.
+A hugely impressive ascent for the time, and doubly so since it was only 3 years after Steve climbed his first 8th grade route ([Zeke the Freak](/climb/303/zeke-the-freak) in October 1995). Steve suggested 9a but it is now considered 9a+ which makes it the first of the grade in the UK and the first of the grade by a British person.
It took Steve 24 sessions over 4 years to make the first ascent.
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13 | 11th December 2023 | climb | Hotel Supramonte | notes | |
Before
FA: Rolando Larcher & Roberto Vigiani, 1998
400m
11 pitches: 7b+, 7c+, 8b, 8a+, 8b, 7c, 7a+, 7b+, 7b, 7b, 6b
[https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/video-about-jonas-shield-and-roger-schaeli-in-hotel-supramonte/](https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/video-about-jonas-shield-and-roger-schaeli-in-hotel-supramonte/)
After
FA: Rolando Larcher & Roberto Vigiani, 1998
400m
11 pitches: 7b+, 7c+, 8b, 8a+, 8b, 7c, 7a+, 7b+, 7b, 7b, 6b
Petzl Rock Trip: [https://youtu.be/mHMcC_4Y0XI?](https://youtu.be/mHMcC_4Y0XI?)
[https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/video-about-jonas-shield-and-roger-schaeli-in-hotel-supramonte/](https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/video-about-jonas-shield-and-roger-schaeli-in-hotel-supramonte/)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -2,4 +2,6 @@
400m
11 pitches: 7b+, 7c+, 8b, 8a+, 8b, 7c, 7a+, 7b+, 7b, 7b, 6b
+Petzl Rock Trip: [https://youtu.be/mHMcC_4Y0XI?](https://youtu.be/mHMcC_4Y0XI?)
+
[https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/video-about-jonas-shield-and-roger-schaeli-in-hotel-supramonte/](https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/video-about-jonas-shield-and-roger-schaeli-in-hotel-supramonte/)
|
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14 | 9th December 2023 | ascent | Joe Kinder's ascent of One Hundred Proof | notes | |
Before
None
After
Good times sessioning with CAMADOHN. Got through the bottom crux and rallied to the top! Basic moves, pump, rests and simple style. Good for the old folks I’m guessing. 9a is best since there’s knees and modern climbs call for modern tactics. Double send day for Cam and me!!!!!
[https://www.8a.nu/news/hoerst-and-kinder-send-one-hundred-proof-calling-it-9a-hu3sr](https://www.8a.nu/news/hoerst-and-kinder-send-one-hundred-proof-calling-it-9a-hu3sr)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1,3 @@
-
+Good times sessioning with CAMADOHN. Got through the bottom crux and rallied to the top! Basic moves, pump, rests and simple style. Good for the old folks I’m guessing. 9a is best since there’s knees and modern climbs call for modern tactics. Double send day for Cam and me!!!!!
+
+[https://www.8a.nu/news/hoerst-and-kinder-send-one-hundred-proof-calling-it-9a-hu3sr](https://www.8a.nu/news/hoerst-and-kinder-send-one-hundred-proof-calling-it-9a-hu3sr)
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15 | 9th December 2023 | ascent | Joe Kinder's ascent of One Hundred Proof | ascent_dt_end | |
Before
None
After
2023-12-09
|
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16 | 9th December 2023 | ascent | Joe Kinder's ascent of One Hundred Proof | ascent_dt_start | |
Before
None
After
2023-12-09
|
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17 | 9th December 2023 | ascent | Cameron Hörst's ascent of One Hundred Proof | notes | |
Before
Suggested Grade 9a due to new Kneebar Beta.
After
Suggested Grade 9a due to new Kneebar Beta.
”One Hundred Proof” has been a route that I’ve always had plans of trying to do. It is a somewhat well known J star FA in the Vegas/ Southwestern USA climbing scene. What made it stand out to me is that it has been left unrepeated for the last few years since the FA. This climb got its long-awaited second ascent! I am suggesting a down grade because a few days before I sent, I found a new knee bar rest that definitely lowered the intensity of the climb a bit. I thought that since some crucial hands and feet broke off while I was climbing on it, the breakage would potentially even out the difficulty with the new knee. I really wanted this climb to remain 9a+ but in the end I still think the route is probably just really solid 9a (the way I did it). And personally one of the harder 9a's I've done since its style is not my forte lol.
I’m super appreciative of Andy Raether and J star’s vision on this route and hope it gets more attention in the future!
[https://www.8a.nu/news/hoerst-and-kinder-send-one-hundred-proof-calling-it-9a-hu3sr](https://www.8a.nu/news/hoerst-and-kinder-send-one-hundred-proof-calling-it-9a-hu3sr)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1,7 @@
-Suggested Grade 9a due to new Kneebar Beta.
+Suggested Grade 9a due to new Kneebar Beta.
+
+”One Hundred Proof” has been a route that I’ve always had plans of trying to do. It is a somewhat well known J star FA in the Vegas/ Southwestern USA climbing scene. What made it stand out to me is that it has been left unrepeated for the last few years since the FA. This climb got its long-awaited second ascent! I am suggesting a down grade because a few days before I sent, I found a new knee bar rest that definitely lowered the intensity of the climb a bit. I thought that since some crucial hands and feet broke off while I was climbing on it, the breakage would potentially even out the difficulty with the new knee. I really wanted this climb to remain 9a+ but in the end I still think the route is probably just really solid 9a (the way I did it). And personally one of the harder 9a's I've done since its style is not my forte lol.
+
+I’m super appreciative of Andy Raether and J star’s vision on this route and hope it gets more attention in the future!
+
+[https://www.8a.nu/news/hoerst-and-kinder-send-one-hundred-proof-calling-it-9a-hu3sr](https://www.8a.nu/news/hoerst-and-kinder-send-one-hundred-proof-calling-it-9a-hu3sr)
|
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18 | 9th December 2023 | ascent | Cameron Hörst's ascent of One Hundred Proof | ascent_dt_start | |
Before
None
After
2023-12-09
|
|||||
19 | 9th December 2023 | ascent | Cameron Hörst's ascent of One Hundred Proof | ascent_dt_end | |
Before
None
After
2023-12-09
|
|||||
20 | 9th December 2023 | ascent | Cameron Hörst's ascent of One Hundred Proof | notes | |
Before
None
After
Suggested Grade 9a due to new Kneebar Beta.
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1 @@
-
+Suggested Grade 9a due to new Kneebar Beta.
|