Mono

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	11179	22nd May 2025 – 30th October 2026	117	13	586	1084
2	France	3482	22nd May 2025 – 2nd November 2026	32	13	175	330
3	USA	1774	30th July 2025 – 20th September 2026	26	56	167	88
4	Japan	1478	19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	14	25	107	73
5	Spain	319	31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026	3	9	35	13
6	Switzerland	229	31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026	2	5	21	15
7	New Zealand	216	19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	1	17	13
8	Canada	170	10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	9	25	3
9	Italy	166	12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026	2	7	19	7
10	Germany	151	8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026	4	6	10	5

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
1521	3rd July 2026	08:03:51 UTC	Mono	climber	Oriane Bertone	notes
Before Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. Bertone was born on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean: > When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents. Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). Over the next five years a Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in 2023. ### References [1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane) [2] The Ascent, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk) [3] [https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview](https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview) After Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s and represented France at Paris Olympics in 2024. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics and was the youngest person to climb 8B+ with her ascent of [Golden Shadow](/climb/793/golden-shadow) in Rocklands, aged 12. Bertone was born in Nice, and grew up on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean in a family that loved the outdoors: > When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents. Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she still found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). Over the next five years Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in Prague in 2023. In 2024 she made the finals of the Paris Olympics, placing 8th. In 2026 she won the inaugural Pro Climbing League bouldering event in London. Her youunger brother [Max Bertone](/climber/1648/max-bertone) is also a notable comp and outdoor climber. ### References [1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane) [2] The Ascent, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk) [3] [https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview](https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,13 +1,13 @@ -Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. +Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s and represented France at Paris Olympics in 2024. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics and was the youngest person to climb 8B+ with her ascent of [Golden Shadow](/climb/793/golden-shadow) in Rocklands, aged 12. -Bertone was born on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean: +Bertone was born in Nice, and grew up on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean in a family that loved the outdoors: > When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents. -Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). +Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she still found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). -Over the next five years a Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in 2023. +Over the next five years Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in Prague in 2023. In 2024 she made the finals of the Paris Olympics, placing 8th. In 2026 she won the inaugural Pro Climbing League bouldering event in London. - +Her youunger brother [Max Bertone](/climber/1648/max-bertone) is also a notable comp and outdoor climber. ### References
1522	3rd July 2026	07:06:34 UTC	Mono	climber	Oriane Bertone	notes_pretty
Before <p>Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Interview with <a href="/climber/2240/arthur-delicque" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arthur Delicque</a> for Grimper, August 2024 <a href="https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane</a></p> <p>[2] <em>The Ascent</em>, a 2025 documentary about Oriane <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk</a></p> After <p>Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. </p> <p>Bertone was born on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean:</p> <blockquote> <p>When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents.</p> </blockquote> <p>Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of <a href="/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)" rel="noopener noreferrer">Satan i Helvete (Bas)</a> (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she found time to make a rapid repeat of <a href="/climb/2150/super-tanker" rel="noopener noreferrer">Super Tanker</a> (8B+). </p> <p>Over the next five years a Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in 2023. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Interview with <a href="/climber/2240/arthur-delicque" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arthur Delicque</a> for Grimper, August 2024 <a href="https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane</a></p> <p>[2] <em>The Ascent</em>, a 2025 documentary about Oriane <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview</a></p>
1523	3rd July 2026	07:06:34 UTC	Mono	climber	Oriane Bertone	notes
Before Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. ### References [1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane) [2] The Ascent, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk) After Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. Bertone was born on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean: > When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents. Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). Over the next five years a Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in 2023. ### References [1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane) [2] The Ascent, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk) [3] [https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview](https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,7 +1,18 @@ Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. + +Bertone was born on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean: +> When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents. + +Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). + +Over the next five years a Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in 2023. + + ### References [1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane) -[2] The Ascent, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk) +[2] The Ascent, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk) + +[3] [https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview](https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview)
1524	3rd July 2026	06:23:02 UTC	Mono	climber	Oriane Bertone	notes_pretty
Before `<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Interview with <a href="/climber/2240/arthur-delicque" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arthur Delicque</a> for Grimper, August 2024 <a href="https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane</a></p> <p>[2] <em>The Ascent</em>, a 2025 documentary about Oriane <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk</a></p>` After <p>Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Interview with <a href="/climber/2240/arthur-delicque" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arthur Delicque</a> for Grimper, August 2024 <a href="https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane</a></p> <p>[2] <em>The Ascent</em>, a 2025 documentary about Oriane <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk</a></p>
1525	3rd July 2026	06:23:02 UTC	Mono	climber	Oriane Bertone	notes
Before `### References [1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane) [2] The Ascent, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk)` After Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. ### References [1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane) [2] The Ascent, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1,3 +1,5 @@ +Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. + ### References [1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane)`
1526	3rd July 2026	05:47:04 UTC	Mono	climber	Malcolm Smith	notes_pretty
Before <p>Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of <a href="/climb/5/hubble" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hubble</a> in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. </p> <p><a href="/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>He went on to climb some the last great problems in the UK such as <a href="/climb/117/monk-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">Monk Life</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/126/pilgrimage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pilgrimage</a> (8B+). His traverses <a href="/climb/7275/lothlorian" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lothlorian</a> (8c+) and <a href="/climb/127/leviathan" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leviathan</a> (9a) remain unrepeated.</p> <p>Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of <a href="/climb/67/evolution" rel="noopener noreferrer">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, the second ascent of <a href="/climb/65/progress" rel="noopener noreferrer">Progress</a> at <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> as well as early repeats of <a href="/climb/9/bat-route" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bat Route</a> and <a href="/climb/12/cry-freedom" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cry Freedom</a> at <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of <a href="/climb/53/hunger" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hunger</a> at <a href="/crag/8442/the-anvil" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Anvil</a>.</p> <p>As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on <a href="/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board" rel="noopener noreferrer">School Room 50° Board</a> remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Cuthbertson</a> interview with <a href="/climber/702/niall-grimes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Niall Grimes</a> on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://vimeo.com/6644468" rel="noopener noreferrer">Splinter</a>, a short portrait by <a href="/climber/986/ben-pritchard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Pritchard</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stone Love</a></p> <p>[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 <a href="https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith</a></p> After <p>Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of <a href="/climb/5/hubble" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hubble</a> in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. </p> <p><a href="/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>He went on to climb some the last great problems in the UK such as <a href="/climb/117/monk-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">Monk Life</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/126/pilgrimage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pilgrimage</a> (8B+). His traverses <a href="/climb/7275/lothlorian" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lothlorian</a> (8c+) and <a href="/climb/127/leviathan" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leviathan</a> (9a) remain unrepeated.</p> <p>Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of <a href="/climb/67/evolution" rel="noopener noreferrer">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, the second ascent of <a href="/climb/65/progress" rel="noopener noreferrer">Progress</a> at <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> as well as early repeats of <a href="/climb/9/bat-route" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bat Route</a> and <a href="/climb/12/cry-freedom" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cry Freedom</a> at <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of <a href="/climb/53/hunger" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hunger</a> at <a href="/crag/8442/the-anvil" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Anvil</a>.</p> <p>As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on the <a href="/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board" rel="noopener noreferrer">School Room 50° Board</a> remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Cuthbertson</a> interview with <a href="/climber/702/niall-grimes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Niall Grimes</a> on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://vimeo.com/6644468" rel="noopener noreferrer">Splinter</a>, a short portrait by <a href="/climber/986/ben-pritchard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Pritchard</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stone Love</a></p> <p>[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 <a href="https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith</a></p>
1527	3rd July 2026	05:47:04 UTC	Mono	climber	Malcolm Smith	notes
Before Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble) in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. [Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson](/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson): > He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1] He went on to climb some the last great problems in the UK such as [Monk Life](/climb/117/monk-life) (8B+) and [Pilgrimage](/climb/126/pilgrimage) (8B+). His traverses [Lothlorian](/climb/7275/lothlorian) (8c+) and [Leviathan](/climb/127/leviathan) (9a) remain unrepeated. Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), the second ascent of [Progress](/climb/65/progress) at [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) as well as early repeats of [Bat Route](/climb/9/bat-route) and [Cry Freedom](/climb/12/cry-freedom) at [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove). In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of [Hunger](/climb/53/hunger) at [The Anvil](/crag/8442/the-anvil). As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on [School Room 50° Board](/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board) remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years. ### References [1] [Dave Cuthbertson](/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson) interview with [Niall Grimes](/climber/702/niall-grimes) on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. [https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?) [2] [Splinter](https://vimeo.com/6644468), a short portrait by [Ben Pritchard](/climber/986/ben-pritchard) [3] [Stone Love](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78) [4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 [https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith](https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith) After Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble) in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. [Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson](/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson): > He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1] He went on to climb some the last great problems in the UK such as [Monk Life](/climb/117/monk-life) (8B+) and [Pilgrimage](/climb/126/pilgrimage) (8B+). His traverses [Lothlorian](/climb/7275/lothlorian) (8c+) and [Leviathan](/climb/127/leviathan) (9a) remain unrepeated. Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), the second ascent of [Progress](/climb/65/progress) at [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) as well as early repeats of [Bat Route](/climb/9/bat-route) and [Cry Freedom](/climb/12/cry-freedom) at [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove). In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of [Hunger](/climb/53/hunger) at [The Anvil](/crag/8442/the-anvil). As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on the [School Room 50° Board](/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board) remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years. ### References [1] [Dave Cuthbertson](/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson) interview with [Niall Grimes](/climber/702/niall-grimes) on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. [https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?) [2] [Splinter](https://vimeo.com/6644468), a short portrait by [Ben Pritchard](/climber/986/ben-pritchard) [3] [Stone Love](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78) [4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 [https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith](https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble) in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. +Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble) in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. [Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson](/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson): @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), the second ascent of [Progress](/climb/65/progress) at [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) as well as early repeats of [Bat Route](/climb/9/bat-route) and [Cry Freedom](/climb/12/cry-freedom) at [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove). In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of [Hunger](/climb/53/hunger) at [The Anvil](/crag/8442/the-anvil). -As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on [School Room 50° Board](/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board) remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years. +As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on the [School Room 50° Board](/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board) remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years. ### References
1528	2nd July 2026	19:35:19 UTC	Mono	climber	Fred Rouhling	notes_pretty
Before <p>Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example <a href="/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel" rel="noopener noreferrer">De L'Autre Côté du Ciel</a>). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as <a href="/climb/46/hugh" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hugh</a> (9a) were manufactured to create this style.</p> <p>His route <a href="/climb/475/akira" rel="noopener noreferrer">Akira</a> was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.</p> <p>A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by <a href="/climber/496/sébastien-bouin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sébastien Bouin</a> and <a href="/climber/498/lucien-martinez" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lucien Martinez</a>.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 <a href="https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY</a> </p> <p>[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI</a></p> <p>[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/</a></p> <p>[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?</a></p> <p>[6] Interview for <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 102, page 40</p> After <p>Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example <a href="/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel" rel="noopener noreferrer">De L'Autre Côté du Ciel</a>). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as <a href="/climb/46/hugh" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hugh</a> (9a) were manufactured to create this style.</p> <p>His route <a href="/climb/475/akira" rel="noopener noreferrer">Akira</a> was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.</p> <p>A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by <a href="/climber/496/sébastien-bouin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sébastien Bouin</a> and <a href="/climber/498/lucien-martinez" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lucien Martinez</a>.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 <a href="https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY</a> </p> <p>[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI</a></p> <p>[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/</a></p> <p>[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?</a></p> <p>[6] Interview for <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 102, page 40</p>
1529	2nd July 2026	19:35:19 UTC	Mono	climber	Fred Rouhling	notes
Before Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style. His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist. A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez). ### References [1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) [2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI) [3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/) [4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-) [5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?) [6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40 After Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style. His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist. A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez). ### References [1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) [2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI) [3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/) [4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-) [5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?) [6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style. +Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style. His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.
1530	2nd July 2026	17:20:40 UTC	Mono	climb	L’Ombre du Voyageur	notes_pretty
Before <p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p> <p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p> <p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p> After <p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p> <p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p> <p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>
1531	2nd July 2026	17:20:40 UTC	Mono	climb	L’Ombre du Voyageur	notes
Before L’Ombre du Voyageur is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section. The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023. Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. [Pietro Vidi](/climber/1461/pietro-vidi) then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem. ### References [1] [https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8) After L’Ombre du Voyageur is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section. The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023. Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. [Pietro Vidi](/climber/1461/pietro-vidi) then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem. ### References [1] [https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -L’Ombre du Voyageur is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section. +L’Ombre du Voyageur is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section. The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.
1532	2nd July 2026	17:19:21 UTC	Mono	climb	L’Ombre du Voyageur	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
1533	2nd July 2026	17:19:21 UTC	Mono	climb	L’Ombre du Voyageur	notes_pretty
Before <p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p> <p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p> <p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p> After <p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p> <p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p> <p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>
1534	2nd July 2026	17:17:28 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
1535	2nd July 2026	17:17:28 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	grade_approx
Before `true` After `false`
1536	2nd July 2026	16:59:18 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes_pretty
Before <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p> After <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>
1537	2nd July 2026	16:59:18 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes
Before [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) After [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] -[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. +[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:
1538	2nd July 2026	16:58:23 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes_pretty
Before <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a>. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p> After <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>
1539	2nd July 2026	16:58:23 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes
Before [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) After [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) -The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). +The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). ### References
1540	2nd July 2026	16:57:55 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	grade_approx
Before `false` After `true`

Before

Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. 

Bertone was born on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean:
> When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents.

Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). 

Over the next five years a Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in 2023. 



### References

[1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane)

[2] *The Ascent*, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk)

[3] [https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview](https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview)

After

Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s and represented France at Paris Olympics in 2024. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics and was the youngest person to climb 8B+ with her ascent of [Golden Shadow](/climb/793/golden-shadow) in Rocklands, aged 12.

Bertone was born in Nice, and grew up on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean in a family that loved the outdoors:
> When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents.

Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she still found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). 

Over the next five years Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in Prague in 2023. In 2024 she made the finals of the Paris Olympics, placing 8th. In 2026 she won the inaugural Pro Climbing League bouldering event in London.

Her youunger brother [Max Bertone](/climber/1648/max-bertone) is also a notable comp and outdoor climber.

### References

[1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane)

[2] *The Ascent*, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk)

[3] [https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview](https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,13 +1,13 @@

-Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. 

+Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s and represented France at Paris Olympics in 2024. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics and was the youngest person to climb 8B+ with her ascent of [Golden Shadow](/climb/793/golden-shadow) in Rocklands, aged 12.

 

-Bertone was born on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean:

+Bertone was born in Nice, and grew up on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean in a family that loved the outdoors:

 > When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents.

 

-Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). 

+Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she still found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). 

 

-Over the next five years a Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in 2023. 

+Over the next five years Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in Prague in 2023. In 2024 she made the finals of the Paris Olympics, placing 8th. In 2026 she won the inaugural Pro Climbing League bouldering event in London.

 

-

+Her youunger brother [Max Bertone](/climber/1648/max-bertone) is also a notable comp and outdoor climber.

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Interview with <a href="/climber/2240/arthur-delicque" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arthur Delicque</a> for Grimper, August 2024 <a href="https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>The Ascent</em>, a 2025 documentary about Oriane <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk</a></p>

After

<p>Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. </p>
<p>Bertone was born on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of <a href="/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)" rel="noopener noreferrer">Satan i Helvete (Bas)</a> (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she found time to make a rapid repeat of <a href="/climb/2150/super-tanker" rel="noopener noreferrer">Super Tanker</a> (8B+). </p>
<p>Over the next five years a Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in 2023. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Interview with <a href="/climber/2240/arthur-delicque" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arthur Delicque</a> for Grimper, August 2024 <a href="https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>The Ascent</em>, a 2025 documentary about Oriane <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview</a></p>

Before

Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. 

### References

[1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane)

[2] *The Ascent*, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk)

After

Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. 

Bertone was born on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean:
> When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents.

Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). 

Over the next five years a Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in 2023. 



### References

[1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane)

[2] *The Ascent*, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk)

[3] [https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview](https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,7 +1,18 @@

 Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. 

+

+Bertone was born on the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean:

+> When you are a child, you just want to climb everywhere in trees and walls. That is what was fun about it. It was just natural. I started climbing outside and being outside just felt amazing. I've always liked nature, and we used to go hiking all the time with my parents.

+

+Having dominated the youth comps in 2019, in 2020 she focused again on rock where highlights included the first ascent of [Satan i Helvete (Bas)](/climb/2268/satan-i-helvete-(bas)) (8B+), aged 15. The following year, the focus returned to comps, placing second in two boulder world cups, but she found time to make a rapid repeat of [Super Tanker](/climb/2150/super-tanker) (8B+). 

+

+Over the next five years a Bertone racked up over a dozen IFSC podium finishes, with her first win in 2023. 

+

+

 

 ### References

 

 [1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane)

 

-[2] *The Ascent*, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk)
+[2] *The Ascent*, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk)

+

+[3] [https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview](https://www.olympics.com/en/news/french-sport-climber-oriane-bertone-2023-interview)

Before

<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Interview with <a href="/climber/2240/arthur-delicque" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arthur Delicque</a> for Grimper, August 2024 <a href="https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>The Ascent</em>, a 2025 documentary about Oriane <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk</a></p>

After

<p>Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Interview with <a href="/climber/2240/arthur-delicque" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arthur Delicque</a> for Grimper, August 2024 <a href="https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>The Ascent</em>, a 2025 documentary about Oriane <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk</a></p>

Before

### References

[1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane)

[2] *The Ascent*, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk)

After

Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. 

### References

[1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane)

[2] *The Ascent*, a 2025 documentary about Oriane [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL8HmtR--Fk)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,3 +1,5 @@

+Oriane Bertone is one of the most successful comp climbers of the 2020s. She was also a Bleausard child prodigy, ticking many of the forest’s hard classics. 

+

 ### References

 

 [1] Interview with [Arthur Delicque](/climber/2240/arthur-delicque) for Grimper, August 2024 [https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane](https://www.grimper.com/news-une-tisane-oriane)

Before

<p>Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of <a href="/climb/5/hubble" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hubble</a> in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>He went on to climb some the last great problems in the UK such as <a href="/climb/117/monk-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">Monk Life</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/126/pilgrimage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pilgrimage</a> (8B+). His traverses <a href="/climb/7275/lothlorian" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lothlorian</a> (8c+) and <a href="/climb/127/leviathan" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leviathan</a> (9a) remain unrepeated.</p>
<p>Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of <a href="/climb/67/evolution" rel="noopener noreferrer">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, the second ascent of <a href="/climb/65/progress" rel="noopener noreferrer">Progress</a> at <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> as well as early repeats of <a href="/climb/9/bat-route" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bat Route</a> and <a href="/climb/12/cry-freedom" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cry Freedom</a> at <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of <a href="/climb/53/hunger" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hunger</a> at <a href="/crag/8442/the-anvil" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Anvil</a>.</p>
<p>As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on <a href="/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board" rel="noopener noreferrer">School Room 50° Board</a> remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Cuthbertson</a> interview with <a href="/climber/702/niall-grimes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Niall Grimes</a> on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://vimeo.com/6644468" rel="noopener noreferrer">Splinter</a>, a short portrait by <a href="/climber/986/ben-pritchard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Pritchard</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stone Love</a></p>
<p>[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 <a href="https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith</a></p>

After

<p>Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of <a href="/climb/5/hubble" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hubble</a> in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>He went on to climb some the last great problems in the UK such as <a href="/climb/117/monk-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">Monk Life</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/126/pilgrimage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pilgrimage</a> (8B+). His traverses <a href="/climb/7275/lothlorian" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lothlorian</a> (8c+) and <a href="/climb/127/leviathan" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leviathan</a> (9a) remain unrepeated.</p>
<p>Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of <a href="/climb/67/evolution" rel="noopener noreferrer">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, the second ascent of <a href="/climb/65/progress" rel="noopener noreferrer">Progress</a> at <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> as well as early repeats of <a href="/climb/9/bat-route" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bat Route</a> and <a href="/climb/12/cry-freedom" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cry Freedom</a> at <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of <a href="/climb/53/hunger" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hunger</a> at <a href="/crag/8442/the-anvil" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Anvil</a>.</p>
<p>As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on the <a href="/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board" rel="noopener noreferrer">School Room 50° Board</a> remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Cuthbertson</a> interview with <a href="/climber/702/niall-grimes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Niall Grimes</a> on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://vimeo.com/6644468" rel="noopener noreferrer">Splinter</a>, a short portrait by <a href="/climber/986/ben-pritchard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Pritchard</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stone Love</a></p>
<p>[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 <a href="https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith</a></p>

Before

Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble) in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. 

[Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson](/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson):

> He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

He went on to climb some the last great problems in the UK such as [Monk Life](/climb/117/monk-life) (8B+) and [Pilgrimage](/climb/126/pilgrimage) (8B+). His traverses [Lothlorian](/climb/7275/lothlorian) (8c+) and [Leviathan](/climb/127/leviathan) (9a) remain unrepeated.

Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), the second ascent of [Progress](/climb/65/progress) at [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) as well as early repeats of [Bat Route](/climb/9/bat-route) and [Cry Freedom](/climb/12/cry-freedom) at [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove). In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of [Hunger](/climb/53/hunger) at [The Anvil](/crag/8442/the-anvil).

As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on [School Room 50° Board](/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board) remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years.

### References

[1] [Dave Cuthbertson](/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson) interview with [Niall Grimes](/climber/702/niall-grimes) on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. [https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?)

[2] [Splinter](https://vimeo.com/6644468), a short portrait by [Ben Pritchard](/climber/986/ben-pritchard)

[3] [Stone Love](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78)

[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 [https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith](https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith)

After

Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble) in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. 

[Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson](/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson):

> He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

He went on to climb some the last great problems in the UK such as [Monk Life](/climb/117/monk-life) (8B+) and [Pilgrimage](/climb/126/pilgrimage) (8B+). His traverses [Lothlorian](/climb/7275/lothlorian) (8c+) and [Leviathan](/climb/127/leviathan) (9a) remain unrepeated.

Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), the second ascent of [Progress](/climb/65/progress) at [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) as well as early repeats of [Bat Route](/climb/9/bat-route) and [Cry Freedom](/climb/12/cry-freedom) at [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove). In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of [Hunger](/climb/53/hunger) at [The Anvil](/crag/8442/the-anvil).

As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on the [School Room 50° Board](/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board) remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years.

### References

[1] [Dave Cuthbertson](/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson) interview with [Niall Grimes](/climber/702/niall-grimes) on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. [https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?)

[2] [Splinter](https://vimeo.com/6644468), a short portrait by [Ben Pritchard](/climber/986/ben-pritchard)

[3] [Stone Love](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78)

[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 [https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith](https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble) in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. 

+Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble) in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. 

 

 [Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson](/climber/520/dave-cuthbertson):

 

@@ -8,7 +8,7 @@

 

 Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), the second ascent of [Progress](/climb/65/progress) at [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) as well as early repeats of [Bat Route](/climb/9/bat-route) and [Cry Freedom](/climb/12/cry-freedom) at [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove). In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of [Hunger](/climb/53/hunger) at [The Anvil](/crag/8442/the-anvil).

 

-As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on [School Room 50° Board](/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board) remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years.

+As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on the [School Room 50° Board](/crag/33810/school-room-50°-board) remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years.

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example <a href="/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel" rel="noopener noreferrer">De L'Autre Côté du Ciel</a>). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as <a href="/climb/46/hugh" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hugh</a> (9a) were manufactured to create this style.</p>
<p>His route <a href="/climb/475/akira" rel="noopener noreferrer">Akira</a> was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.</p>
<p>A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by <a href="/climber/496/sébastien-bouin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sébastien Bouin</a> and <a href="/climber/498/lucien-martinez" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lucien Martinez</a>.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 <a href="https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY</a> </p>
<p>[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI</a></p>
<p>[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/</a></p>
<p>[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?</a></p>
<p>[6] Interview for <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 102, page 40</p>

After

<p>Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example <a href="/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel" rel="noopener noreferrer">De L'Autre Côté du Ciel</a>). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as <a href="/climb/46/hugh" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hugh</a> (9a) were manufactured to create this style.</p>
<p>His route <a href="/climb/475/akira" rel="noopener noreferrer">Akira</a> was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.</p>
<p>A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by <a href="/climber/496/sébastien-bouin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sébastien Bouin</a> and <a href="/climber/498/lucien-martinez" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lucien Martinez</a>.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 <a href="https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY</a> </p>
<p>[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI</a></p>
<p>[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/</a></p>
<p>[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?</a></p>
<p>[6] Interview for <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 102, page 40</p>

Before

Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style.

His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.

A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez).


### References

[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) 

[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI)

[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/)

[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-)

[5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?)

[6] Interview for *On The Edge* Issue 102, page 40

After

Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style.

His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.

A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez).


### References

[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) 

[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI)

[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/)

[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-)

[5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?)

[6] Interview for *On The Edge* Issue 102, page 40

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style.

+Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style.

 

 His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.

Before

<p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p>
<p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p>
<p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>

After

<p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p>
<p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p>
<p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>

Before

*L’Ombre du Voyageur* is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.

The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.

Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. [Pietro Vidi](/climber/1461/pietro-vidi) then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.

### References

[1] [https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8)

After

*L’Ombre du Voyageur* is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.

The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.

Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. [Pietro Vidi](/climber/1461/pietro-vidi) then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.

### References

[1] [https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-*L’Ombre du Voyageur* is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.

+*L’Ombre du Voyageur* is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.

 

 The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.

Before

false

After

true

Before

<p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p>
<p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p>
<p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>

After

<p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p>
<p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p>
<p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>

Before

false

After

true

Before

true

After

false

Before

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

After

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

Before

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

After

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -5,7 +5,7 @@

 Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:

 >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

 

-[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

+[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

 

 [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

Before

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

After

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

Before

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

After

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -21,7 +21,7 @@

 

  >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

 

-The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). 

+The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). 

 

 ### References

Before

false

After

true

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