Mono

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	11148	22nd May 2025 – 16th September 2026	114	13	586	1083
2	France	3430	22nd May 2025 – 29th August 2026	32	13	172	326
3	USA	1770	30th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	26	56	167	88
4	Japan	1478	19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	14	25	107	73
5	Spain	319	31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026	3	9	35	13
6	Switzerland	229	31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026	2	5	21	15
7	New Zealand	216	19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	1	17	13
8	Canada	170	10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	9	25	3
9	Italy	166	12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026	2	7	19	7
10	Germany	151	8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026	4	6	10	5

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
1541	28th June 2026	22:08:52 UTC	Mono	media	/file/de37b5ad-eaaf-b201-45a2-e96b5d14bde6/IMG_7014.jpeg	missing_right_to_reproduce
Before `None` After `true`
1542	28th June 2026	22:08:52 UTC	Mono	media	/file/de37b5ad-eaaf-b201-45a2-e96b5d14bde6/IMG_7014.jpeg	attribution_climber_id
Before `None` After `1691`
1543	28th June 2026	22:08:52 UTC	Mono	media	/file/de37b5ad-eaaf-b201-45a2-e96b5d14bde6/IMG_7014.jpeg	url
Before `None` After `/file/de37b5ad-eaaf-b201-45a2-e96b5d14bde6/IMG_7014.jpeg`
1544	28th June 2026	22:06:08 UTC	Mono	climb	Captain Invincible	notes
Before A route with a somewhat chequered history. Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] [Paul Mitchell](/climber/1118/paul-mitchell) then filled the scars with mortar to repeair the damage before [John Allen](/climber/546/john-allen) removed the mortar in the hopes of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful. [Sean Myles](/climber/603/sean-myles) suggested E8 but after a repeat from [Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) around 1994 it then waited 20 years for another repeat from [Tom Randall](/climber/322/tom-randall) who suggested it was around 8b/+ protected by some RPs and dodgy pegs, with a bold start which suggests E9 is likely closer to the mark. ### References [1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 [https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141](https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141) After Despite being one of the most striking lines on grit and ‘the best 8b in the Peak’, according to second ascensionist [Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) [2], Captain Invincible has seen very few ascents. Masquerading as an E8, it was likely the hardest trad route in the UK in 1991. The route takes an obvious line up the centre of The Cioch at [Burbage South](/crag/89/burbage-south), with a run out start worth E7 in its own right, into a desperate peg-protected crux section. Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] [Paul Mitchell](/climber/1118/paul-mitchell) and [John Allen](/climber/546/john-allen) then filled the scars with mortar to repair the damage before Allen had second thoughts and tried to remove the mortar in the hope of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful. Once the mortar was out, the race was on. A number of leading climbers tried the route, but only [Sean Myles](/climber/603/sean-myles) succeeded, working the route in 1990 and making the first ascent in 1991, grading it E8. [Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) was in for a repeat a couple of years later, confirming the grade and finding it comparable to [Transcendence](/climb/650/transcendence) – another complete sandbag at E8, which is now rated E9. Burning off [Jean-Minh Trin-Thieu](/climber/699/jean-minh-trin-thieu), who had also been trying the route, provided some motivation. A decade passed, Hard Grit arrived and yet the repeats did not. By the noughties, [Parthian Shot (Pre-2011 Break)](/climb/598/parthian-shot-(pre-2011-break)) (E9) had become a trade route, yet Captain Invincible – supposedly a grade easier – lived up to its name and proved impervious to ascents. It took until 2014 for a third ascent from crack master [Tom Randall](/climber/322/tom-randall), who found the route ‘Hard E9 7a or 8b/+’. ### References [1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 [https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141](https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,16 @@ -A route with a somewhat chequered history. Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] [Paul Mitchell](/climber/1118/paul-mitchell) then filled the scars with mortar to repeair the damage before [John Allen](/climber/546/john-allen) removed the mortar in the hopes of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful. +Despite being one of the most striking lines on grit and ‘the best 8b in the Peak’, according to second ascensionist [Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) [2], Captain Invincible has seen very few ascents. Masquerading as an E8, it was likely the hardest trad route in the UK in 1991. -[Sean Myles](/climber/603/sean-myles) suggested E8 but after a repeat from [Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) around 1994 it then waited 20 years for another repeat from [Tom Randall](/climber/322/tom-randall) who suggested it was around 8b/+ protected by some RPs and dodgy pegs, with a bold start which suggests E9 is likely closer to the mark. +The route takes an obvious line up the centre of The Cioch at [Burbage South](/crag/89/burbage-south), with a run out start worth E7 in its own right, into a desperate peg-protected crux section. + +Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] [Paul Mitchell](/climber/1118/paul-mitchell) and [John Allen](/climber/546/john-allen) then filled the scars with mortar to repair the damage before Allen had second thoughts and tried to remove the mortar in the hope of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful. + +Once the mortar was out, the race was on. A number of leading climbers tried the route, but only [Sean Myles](/climber/603/sean-myles) succeeded, working the route in 1990 and making the first ascent in 1991, grading it E8. + +[Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) was in for a repeat a couple of years later, confirming the grade and finding it comparable to [Transcendence](/climb/650/transcendence) – another complete sandbag at E8, which is now rated E9. Burning off [Jean-Minh Trin-Thieu](/climber/699/jean-minh-trin-thieu), who had also been trying the route, provided some motivation. + +A decade passed, Hard Grit arrived and yet the repeats did not. By the noughties, [Parthian Shot (Pre-2011 Break)](/climb/598/parthian-shot-(pre-2011-break)) (E9) had become a trade route, yet Captain Invincible – supposedly a grade easier – lived up to its name and proved impervious to ascents. + +It took until 2014 for a third ascent from crack master [Tom Randall](/climber/322/tom-randall), who found the route ‘Hard E9 7a or 8b/+’. ### References
1545	28th June 2026	22:06:08 UTC	Mono	climb	Captain Invincible	notes_pretty
Before <p>A route with a somewhat chequered history. Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] <a href="/climber/1118/paul-mitchell">Paul Mitchell</a> then filled the scars with mortar to repeair the damage before <a href="/climber/546/john-allen">John Allen</a> removed the mortar in the hopes of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.</p> <p><a href="/climber/603/sean-myles">Sean Myles</a> suggested E8 but after a repeat from <a href="/climber/216/robin-barker">Robin Barker</a> around 1994 it then waited 20 years for another repeat from <a href="/climber/322/tom-randall">Tom Randall</a> who suggested it was around 8b/+ protected by some RPs and dodgy pegs, with a bold start which suggests E9 is likely closer to the mark.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 141 (1991), page 10 <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141">https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141</a></p> After <p>Despite being one of the most striking lines on grit and ‘the best 8b in the Peak’, according to second ascensionist <a href="/climber/216/robin-barker" rel="noopener noreferrer">Robin Barker</a> [2], Captain Invincible has seen very few ascents. Masquerading as an E8, it was likely the hardest trad route in the UK in 1991.</p> <p>The route takes an obvious line up the centre of The Cioch at <a href="/crag/89/burbage-south" rel="noopener noreferrer">Burbage South</a>, with a run out start worth E7 in its own right, into a desperate peg-protected crux section. </p> <p>Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] <a href="/climber/1118/paul-mitchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Mitchell</a> and <a href="/climber/546/john-allen" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Allen</a> then filled the scars with mortar to repair the damage before Allen had second thoughts and tried to remove the mortar in the hope of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.</p> <p>Once the mortar was out, the race was on. A number of leading climbers tried the route, but only <a href="/climber/603/sean-myles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sean Myles</a> succeeded, working the route in 1990 and making the first ascent in 1991, grading it E8. </p> <p><a href="/climber/216/robin-barker" rel="noopener noreferrer">Robin Barker</a> was in for a repeat a couple of years later, confirming the grade and finding it comparable to <a href="/climb/650/transcendence" rel="noopener noreferrer">Transcendence</a> – another complete sandbag at E8, which is now rated E9. Burning off <a href="/climber/699/jean-minh-trin-thieu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Minh Trin-Thieu</a>, who had also been trying the route, provided some motivation. </p> <p>A decade passed, <em>Hard Grit</em> arrived and yet the repeats did not. By the noughties, <a href="/climb/598/parthian-shot-(pre-2011-break)" rel="noopener noreferrer">Parthian Shot (Pre-2011 Break)</a> (E9) had become a trade route, yet Captain Invincible – supposedly a grade easier – lived up to its name and proved impervious to ascents. </p> <p>It took until 2014 for a third ascent from crack master <a href="/climber/322/tom-randall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tom Randall</a>, who found the route ‘Hard E9 7a or 8b/+’. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 141 (1991), page 10 <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141</a></p>
1546	28th June 2026	10:29:42 UTC	Mono	climber	John Allen	notes_pretty
Before <p>John Allen was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the Peak District.</p> <p>Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed <a href="/climb/877" rel="noopener noreferrer">Old Friends</a> (E4) when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as <a href="/climb/878" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hairless Heart</a>, <a href="/climb/870" rel="noopener noreferrer">White Wand</a> (E5), <a href="/climb/879" rel="noopener noreferrer">Profit of Doom</a> (E4) and <a href="/climb/871" rel="noopener noreferrer">London Wall</a> (E5) which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16.</p> <p>From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with <a href="/climber/722/john-bachar" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Bachar</a>, <a href="climber/728/john-long" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Long</a> and <a href="/climber/732/tony-yaniro" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tony Yaniro</a>. With Simon Horrox, he climbed <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved.</p> <p>Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as <a href="/climb/880" rel="noopener noreferrer">West Side Story</a> at <a href="/crag/1303" rel="noopener noreferrer">Burbage West</a>. He was clearly going in this period, as one onlooker recounts:</p> <blockquote> <p>I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up <a href="/climb/6225/crescent-arête" rel="noopener noreferrer">Crescent Arête</a>, <a href="/climb/2032/not-to-be-taken-away" rel="noopener noreferrer">NTBTA</a>, <a href="/climb/3126/archangel" rel="noopener noreferrer">Archangel</a>, <a href="/climb/3127/don" rel="noopener noreferrer">Doug</a> [sic], <a href="/climb/870/white-wand" rel="noopener noreferrer">White Wand</a> (which I think he might have downclimbed) and <a href="/climb/881/ulysses'-bow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ulysses</a> plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less. It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible. [5]</p> </blockquote> <p>Although his enthusiasm for climbing waned in the '90s, he returned to it in the 2010s, developing mid-grade sport routes in the limestone quarries of the Peak District.</p> <p>John sadly died in a climbing accident at <a href="/crag/33827/stoney-west" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stoney West</a> in 2020 [4]. He remains a revered and fondly remembered figure in British climbing.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Obituary on <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a> by <a href="/climber/793/graham-hoey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Graham Hoey</a>, 27th May 2020 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803</a></p> <p>[2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g</a></p> <p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/1096/geoff-birtles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Geoff Birtles</a> for <em>Crags</em> magazine in December 1976, shortly before John emmigrated to New Zealand <a href="https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/</a></p> <p>[4] UKClimbing.com news report on the accident which killed John Allen (2020) <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708</a></p> After <p>John Allen was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the Peak District.</p> <p>Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed <a href="/climb/877" rel="noopener noreferrer">Old Friends</a> (E4) when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as <a href="/climb/878" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hairless Heart</a>, <a href="/climb/870" rel="noopener noreferrer">White Wand</a> (E5), <a href="/climb/879" rel="noopener noreferrer">Profit of Doom</a> (E4) and <a href="/climb/871" rel="noopener noreferrer">London Wall</a> (E5) which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16.</p> <p>From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with <a href="/climber/722/john-bachar" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Bachar</a>, <a href="climber/728/john-long" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Long</a> and <a href="/climber/732/tony-yaniro" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tony Yaniro</a>. With Simon Horrox, he climbed <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved.</p> <p>Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as <a href="/climb/880" rel="noopener noreferrer">West Side Story</a> at <a href="/crag/1303" rel="noopener noreferrer">Burbage West</a>. He was clearly going well in this period, as one onlooker recounts:</p> <blockquote> <p>I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up <a href="/climb/6225/crescent-arête" rel="noopener noreferrer">Crescent Arête</a>, <a href="/climb/2032/not-to-be-taken-away" rel="noopener noreferrer">NTBTA</a>, <a href="/climb/3126/archangel" rel="noopener noreferrer">Archangel</a>, <a href="/climb/3127/don" rel="noopener noreferrer">Doug</a> [sic], <a href="/climb/870/white-wand" rel="noopener noreferrer">White Wand</a> (which I think he might have downclimbed) and <a href="/climb/881/ulysses'-bow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ulysses</a> plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less. It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible. [5]</p> </blockquote> <p>Although his enthusiasm for climbing waned in the '90s, he returned to it in the 2010s, developing mid-grade sport routes in the limestone quarries of the Peak District.</p> <p>John sadly died in a climbing accident at <a href="/crag/33827/stoney-west" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stoney West</a> in 2020 [4]. He remains a revered and fondly remembered figure in British climbing.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Obituary on <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a> by <a href="/climber/793/graham-hoey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Graham Hoey</a>, 27th May 2020 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803</a></p> <p>[2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g</a></p> <p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/1096/geoff-birtles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Geoff Birtles</a> for <em>Crags</em> magazine in December 1976, shortly before John emmigrated to New Zealand <a href="https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/</a></p> <p>[4] UKClimbing.com news report on the accident which killed John Allen (2020) <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708</a></p>
1547	28th June 2026	10:29:42 UTC	Mono	climber	John Allen	notes
Before John Allen was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the Peak District. Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed [Old Friends](/climb/877) (E4) when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as [Hairless Heart](/climb/878), [White Wand](/climb/870) (E5), [Profit of Doom](/climb/879) (E4) and [London Wall](/climb/871) (E5) which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16. From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with [John Bachar](/climber/722/john-bachar), [John Long](climber/728/john-long) and [Tony Yaniro](/climber/732/tony-yaniro). With Simon Horrox, he climbed [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved. Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as [West Side Story](/climb/880) at [Burbage West](/crag/1303). He was clearly going in this period, as one onlooker recounts: >I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up [Crescent Arête](/climb/6225/crescent-arête), [NTBTA](/climb/2032/not-to-be-taken-away), [Archangel](/climb/3126/archangel), [Doug](/climb/3127/don) [sic], [White Wand](/climb/870/white-wand) (which I think he might have downclimbed) and [Ulysses](/climb/881/ulysses'-bow) plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less. It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible. [5] Although his enthusiasm for climbing waned in the '90s, he returned to it in the 2010s, developing mid-grade sport routes in the limestone quarries of the Peak District. John sadly died in a climbing accident at [Stoney West](/crag/33827/stoney-west) in 2020 [4]. He remains a revered and fondly remembered figure in British climbing. ### References [1] Obituary on [UKClimbing.com](https://www.ukclimbing.com/) by [Graham Hoey](/climber/793/graham-hoey), 27th May 2020 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803) [2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand [https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g) [3] Interview with [Geoff Birtles](/climber/1096/geoff-birtles) for Crags magazine in December 1976, shortly before John emmigrated to New Zealand [https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/](https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/) [4] UKClimbing.com news report on the accident which killed John Allen (2020) [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315) [5] [https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708](https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708) After John Allen was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the Peak District. Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed [Old Friends](/climb/877) (E4) when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as [Hairless Heart](/climb/878), [White Wand](/climb/870) (E5), [Profit of Doom](/climb/879) (E4) and [London Wall](/climb/871) (E5) which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16. From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with [John Bachar](/climber/722/john-bachar), [John Long](climber/728/john-long) and [Tony Yaniro](/climber/732/tony-yaniro). With Simon Horrox, he climbed [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved. Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as [West Side Story](/climb/880) at [Burbage West](/crag/1303). He was clearly going well in this period, as one onlooker recounts: >I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up [Crescent Arête](/climb/6225/crescent-arête), [NTBTA](/climb/2032/not-to-be-taken-away), [Archangel](/climb/3126/archangel), [Doug](/climb/3127/don) [sic], [White Wand](/climb/870/white-wand) (which I think he might have downclimbed) and [Ulysses](/climb/881/ulysses'-bow) plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less. It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible. [5] Although his enthusiasm for climbing waned in the '90s, he returned to it in the 2010s, developing mid-grade sport routes in the limestone quarries of the Peak District. John sadly died in a climbing accident at [Stoney West](/crag/33827/stoney-west) in 2020 [4]. He remains a revered and fondly remembered figure in British climbing. ### References [1] Obituary on [UKClimbing.com](https://www.ukclimbing.com/) by [Graham Hoey](/climber/793/graham-hoey), 27th May 2020 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803) [2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand [https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g) [3] Interview with [Geoff Birtles](/climber/1096/geoff-birtles) for Crags magazine in December 1976, shortly before John emmigrated to New Zealand [https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/](https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/) [4] UKClimbing.com news report on the accident which killed John Allen (2020) [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315) [5] [https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708](https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with [John Bachar](/climber/722/john-bachar), [John Long](climber/728/john-long) and [Tony Yaniro](/climber/732/tony-yaniro). With Simon Horrox, he climbed [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved. -Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as [West Side Story](/climb/880) at [Burbage West](/crag/1303). He was clearly going in this period, as one onlooker recounts: +Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as [West Side Story](/climb/880) at [Burbage West](/crag/1303). He was clearly going well in this period, as one onlooker recounts: >I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up [Crescent Arête](/climb/6225/crescent-arête), [NTBTA](/climb/2032/not-to-be-taken-away), [Archangel](/climb/3126/archangel), [Doug](/climb/3127/don) [sic], [White Wand](/climb/870/white-wand) (which I think he might have downclimbed) and [Ulysses](/climb/881/ulysses'-bow) plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less. It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible. [5]
1548	28th June 2026	10:29:17 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Goliath	notes
Before `Aged 12` After `Aged 12 ### References [1] [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/)` Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,5 @@ -Aged 12 +Aged 12 + +### References + +[1] [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/)`
1549	28th June 2026	10:29:17 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Goliath	notes_pretty
Before `<p>Aged 12</p>` After `<p>Aged 12</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/</a></p>`
1550	28th June 2026	10:28:26 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Goliath	ascent_type_id
Before `None` After `6`
1551	28th June 2026	10:28:26 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Goliath	ascent_style_id
Before `None` After `7`
1552	28th June 2026	10:28:26 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Goliath	ascent_dt_start
Before `None` After `1971-01-01`
1553	28th June 2026	10:28:26 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Goliath	ascent_dt_end
Before `None` After `1972-01-01`
1554	28th June 2026	10:28:26 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Goliath	climb_id
Before `None` After `1067`
1555	28th June 2026	10:28:26 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Goliath	climber_id
Before `None` After `546`
1556	28th June 2026	10:28:26 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Goliath	notes_pretty
Before `None` After `<p>Aged 12</p>`
1557	28th June 2026	10:28:26 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Goliath	notes
Before `None` After `Aged 12` Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1 +1 @@ - +Aged 12`
1558	28th June 2026	10:27:43 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of The Dangler	ascent_style_id
Before `1` After `7`
1559	28th June 2026	10:24:36 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Profit of Doom	notes_pretty
Before <p>Climbed by a teenage Allen during an intensely productive period after his parents had moved to New Zealand.</p> <blockquote> <p>Did you lose interest? I didn't really lose interest but I burnt out a bit. I was really intense about it. It was a traumatic time for me developing as a teenager into the warm wonderful human being that I am now. My parents had left and I was on my own and I wanted to see them again. I'd chosen climbing instead of my family and it went a bit empty on me after a while. I'd done a lot of the routes I'd dreamt of doing, like Prophet of Doom [sic]. I remember distinctly on that particular route feeling nothing when I reached the top. I live a lot on my feelings and generally it went a bit dead on me. [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <em>Crags</em> Issue 1, page 2</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/</a></p> After <p>Climbed by a teenage Allen during an intensely productive period after his parents had moved to New Zealand.</p> <blockquote> <p>Did you lose interest?</p> <p>I didn't really lose interest but I burnt out a bit. I was really intense about it. It was a traumatic time for me developing as a teenager into the warm wonderful human being that I am now. My parents had left and I was on my own and I wanted to see them again. I'd chosen climbing instead of my family and it went a bit empty on me after a while. I'd done a lot of the routes I'd dreamt of doing, like Prophet of Doom [sic]. I remember distinctly on that particular route feeling nothing when I reached the top. I live a lot on my feelings and generally it went a bit dead on me. [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <em>Crags</em> Issue 1, page 2</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/</a></p>
1560	28th June 2026	10:24:36 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Allen's ascent of Profit of Doom	notes
Before Climbed by a teenage Allen during an intensely productive period after his parents had moved to New Zealand. >Did you lose interest? >I didn't really lose interest but I burnt out a bit. I was really intense about it. It was a traumatic time for me developing as a teenager into the warm wonderful human being that I am now. My parents had left and I was on my own and I wanted to see them again. I'd chosen climbing instead of my family and it went a bit empty on me after a while. I'd done a lot of the routes I'd dreamt of doing, like Prophet of Doom [sic]. I remember distinctly on that particular route feeling nothing when I reached the top. I live a lot on my feelings and generally it went a bit dead on me. [2] ### References [1] Crags Issue 1, page 2 [2] [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/) After Climbed by a teenage Allen during an intensely productive period after his parents had moved to New Zealand. >Did you lose interest? >I didn't really lose interest but I burnt out a bit. I was really intense about it. It was a traumatic time for me developing as a teenager into the warm wonderful human being that I am now. My parents had left and I was on my own and I wanted to see them again. I'd chosen climbing instead of my family and it went a bit empty on me after a while. I'd done a lot of the routes I'd dreamt of doing, like Prophet of Doom [sic]. I remember distinctly on that particular route feeling nothing when I reached the top. I live a lot on my feelings and generally it went a bit dead on me. [2] ### References [1] Crags Issue 1, page 2 [2] [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,7 @@ Climbed by a teenage Allen during an intensely productive period after his parents had moved to New Zealand. >Did you lose interest? + >I didn't really lose interest but I burnt out a bit. I was really intense about it. It was a traumatic time for me developing as a teenager into the warm wonderful human being that I am now. My parents had left and I was on my own and I wanted to see them again. I'd chosen climbing instead of my family and it went a bit empty on me after a while. I'd done a lot of the routes I'd dreamt of doing, like Prophet of Doom [sic]. I remember distinctly on that particular route feeling nothing when I reached the top. I live a lot on my feelings and generally it went a bit dead on me. [2] ### References

Before

None

After

true

Before

None

After

1691

Before

None

After

/file/de37b5ad-eaaf-b201-45a2-e96b5d14bde6/IMG_7014.jpeg

Before

A route with a somewhat chequered history. Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] [Paul Mitchell](/climber/1118/paul-mitchell) then filled the scars with mortar to repeair the damage before [John Allen](/climber/546/john-allen) removed the mortar in the hopes of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.

[Sean Myles](/climber/603/sean-myles) suggested E8 but after a repeat from [Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) around 1994 it then waited 20 years for another repeat from [Tom Randall](/climber/322/tom-randall) who suggested it was around 8b/+ protected by some RPs and dodgy pegs, with a bold start which suggests E9 is likely closer to the mark.

### References

[1] *Mountain* Issue 141 (1991), page 10 [https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141](https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141)

After

Despite being one of the most striking lines on grit and ‘the best 8b in the Peak’, according to second ascensionist [Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) [2], Captain Invincible has seen very few ascents. Masquerading as an E8, it was likely the hardest trad route in the UK in 1991.

The route takes an obvious line up the centre of The Cioch at [Burbage South](/crag/89/burbage-south), with a run out start worth E7 in its own right, into a desperate peg-protected crux section. 

Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] [Paul Mitchell](/climber/1118/paul-mitchell) and [John Allen](/climber/546/john-allen) then filled the scars with mortar to repair the damage before Allen had second thoughts and tried to remove the mortar in the hope of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.

Once the mortar was out, the race was on. A number of leading climbers tried the route, but only [Sean Myles](/climber/603/sean-myles) succeeded, working the route in 1990 and making the first ascent in 1991, grading it E8. 

[Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) was in for a repeat a couple of years later, confirming the grade and finding it comparable to [Transcendence](/climb/650/transcendence) – another complete sandbag at E8, which is now rated E9. Burning off [Jean-Minh Trin-Thieu](/climber/699/jean-minh-trin-thieu), who had also been trying the route, provided some motivation. 

A decade passed, *Hard Grit* arrived and yet the repeats did not. By the noughties, [Parthian Shot (Pre-2011 Break)](/climb/598/parthian-shot-(pre-2011-break)) (E9) had become a trade route, yet Captain Invincible – supposedly a grade easier – lived up to its name and proved impervious to ascents. 

It took until 2014 for a third ascent from crack master [Tom Randall](/climber/322/tom-randall), who found the route ‘Hard E9 7a or 8b/+’. 

### References

[1] *Mountain* Issue 141 (1991), page 10 [https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141](https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,16 @@

-A route with a somewhat chequered history. Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] [Paul Mitchell](/climber/1118/paul-mitchell) then filled the scars with mortar to repeair the damage before [John Allen](/climber/546/john-allen) removed the mortar in the hopes of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.

+Despite being one of the most striking lines on grit and ‘the best 8b in the Peak’, according to second ascensionist [Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) [2], Captain Invincible has seen very few ascents. Masquerading as an E8, it was likely the hardest trad route in the UK in 1991.

 

-[Sean Myles](/climber/603/sean-myles) suggested E8 but after a repeat from [Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) around 1994 it then waited 20 years for another repeat from [Tom Randall](/climber/322/tom-randall) who suggested it was around 8b/+ protected by some RPs and dodgy pegs, with a bold start which suggests E9 is likely closer to the mark.

+The route takes an obvious line up the centre of The Cioch at [Burbage South](/crag/89/burbage-south), with a run out start worth E7 in its own right, into a desperate peg-protected crux section. 

+

+Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] [Paul Mitchell](/climber/1118/paul-mitchell) and [John Allen](/climber/546/john-allen) then filled the scars with mortar to repair the damage before Allen had second thoughts and tried to remove the mortar in the hope of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.

+

+Once the mortar was out, the race was on. A number of leading climbers tried the route, but only [Sean Myles](/climber/603/sean-myles) succeeded, working the route in 1990 and making the first ascent in 1991, grading it E8. 

+

+[Robin Barker](/climber/216/robin-barker) was in for a repeat a couple of years later, confirming the grade and finding it comparable to [Transcendence](/climb/650/transcendence) – another complete sandbag at E8, which is now rated E9. Burning off [Jean-Minh Trin-Thieu](/climber/699/jean-minh-trin-thieu), who had also been trying the route, provided some motivation. 

+

+A decade passed, *Hard Grit* arrived and yet the repeats did not. By the noughties, [Parthian Shot (Pre-2011 Break)](/climb/598/parthian-shot-(pre-2011-break)) (E9) had become a trade route, yet Captain Invincible – supposedly a grade easier – lived up to its name and proved impervious to ascents. 

+

+It took until 2014 for a third ascent from crack master [Tom Randall](/climber/322/tom-randall), who found the route ‘Hard E9 7a or 8b/+’. 

 

 ### References

Before

<p>A route with a somewhat chequered history. Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] <a href="/climber/1118/paul-mitchell">Paul Mitchell</a> then filled the scars with mortar to repeair the damage before <a href="/climber/546/john-allen">John Allen</a> removed the mortar in the hopes of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/603/sean-myles">Sean Myles</a> suggested E8 but after a repeat from <a href="/climber/216/robin-barker">Robin Barker</a> around 1994 it then waited 20 years for another repeat from <a href="/climber/322/tom-randall">Tom Randall</a> who suggested it was around 8b/+ protected by some RPs and dodgy pegs, with a bold start which suggests E9 is likely closer to the mark.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 141 (1991), page 10 <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141">https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141</a></p>

After

<p>Despite being one of the most striking lines on grit and ‘the best 8b in the Peak’, according to second ascensionist <a href="/climber/216/robin-barker" rel="noopener noreferrer">Robin Barker</a> [2], Captain Invincible has seen very few ascents. Masquerading as an E8, it was likely the hardest trad route in the UK in 1991.</p>
<p>The route takes an obvious line up the centre of The Cioch at <a href="/crag/89/burbage-south" rel="noopener noreferrer">Burbage South</a>, with a run out start worth E7 in its own right, into a desperate peg-protected crux section. </p>
<p>Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] <a href="/climber/1118/paul-mitchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Mitchell</a> and <a href="/climber/546/john-allen" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Allen</a> then filled the scars with mortar to repair the damage before Allen had second thoughts and tried to remove the mortar in the hope of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.</p>
<p>Once the mortar was out, the race was on. A number of leading climbers tried the route, but only <a href="/climber/603/sean-myles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sean Myles</a> succeeded, working the route in 1990 and making the first ascent in 1991, grading it E8. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/216/robin-barker" rel="noopener noreferrer">Robin Barker</a> was in for a repeat a couple of years later, confirming the grade and finding it comparable to <a href="/climb/650/transcendence" rel="noopener noreferrer">Transcendence</a> – another complete sandbag at E8, which is now rated E9. Burning off <a href="/climber/699/jean-minh-trin-thieu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Minh Trin-Thieu</a>, who had also been trying the route, provided some motivation. </p>
<p>A decade passed, <em>Hard Grit</em> arrived and yet the repeats did not. By the noughties, <a href="/climb/598/parthian-shot-(pre-2011-break)" rel="noopener noreferrer">Parthian Shot (Pre-2011 Break)</a> (E9) had become a trade route, yet Captain Invincible – supposedly a grade easier – lived up to its name and proved impervious to ascents. </p>
<p>It took until 2014 for a third ascent from crack master <a href="/climber/322/tom-randall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tom Randall</a>, who found the route ‘Hard E9 7a or 8b/+’. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 141 (1991), page 10 <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141</a></p>

Before

<p>John Allen was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the Peak District.</p>
<p>Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed <a href="/climb/877" rel="noopener noreferrer">Old Friends</a> (E4) when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as <a href="/climb/878" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hairless Heart</a>, <a href="/climb/870" rel="noopener noreferrer">White Wand</a> (E5), <a href="/climb/879" rel="noopener noreferrer">Profit of Doom</a> (E4) and <a href="/climb/871" rel="noopener noreferrer">London Wall</a> (E5) which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16.</p>
<p>From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with <a href="/climber/722/john-bachar" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Bachar</a>, <a href="climber/728/john-long" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Long</a> and <a href="/climber/732/tony-yaniro" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tony Yaniro</a>. With Simon Horrox, he climbed <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved.</p>
<p>Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as <a href="/climb/880" rel="noopener noreferrer">West Side Story</a> at <a href="/crag/1303" rel="noopener noreferrer">Burbage West</a>. He was clearly going in this period, as one onlooker recounts:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up <a href="/climb/6225/crescent-arête" rel="noopener noreferrer">Crescent Arête</a>, <a href="/climb/2032/not-to-be-taken-away" rel="noopener noreferrer">NTBTA</a>, <a href="/climb/3126/archangel" rel="noopener noreferrer">Archangel</a>, <a href="/climb/3127/don" rel="noopener noreferrer">Doug</a> [sic], <a href="/climb/870/white-wand" rel="noopener noreferrer">White Wand</a> (which I think he might have downclimbed) and <a href="/climb/881/ulysses'-bow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ulysses</a> plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less. It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible. [5]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Although his enthusiasm for climbing waned in the '90s, he returned to it in the 2010s, developing mid-grade sport routes in the limestone quarries of the Peak District.</p>
<p>John sadly died in a climbing accident at <a href="/crag/33827/stoney-west" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stoney West</a> in 2020 [4]. He remains a revered and fondly remembered figure in British climbing.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Obituary on <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a> by 
<a href="/climber/793/graham-hoey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Graham Hoey</a>, 27th May 2020  <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803</a></p>
<p>[2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g</a></p>
<p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/1096/geoff-birtles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Geoff Birtles</a> for <em>Crags</em> magazine in December 1976, shortly before John emmigrated to New Zealand <a href="https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/</a></p>
<p>[4] UKClimbing.com news report on the accident which killed John Allen (2020) <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708</a></p>

After

<p>John Allen was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the Peak District.</p>
<p>Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed <a href="/climb/877" rel="noopener noreferrer">Old Friends</a> (E4) when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as <a href="/climb/878" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hairless Heart</a>, <a href="/climb/870" rel="noopener noreferrer">White Wand</a> (E5), <a href="/climb/879" rel="noopener noreferrer">Profit of Doom</a> (E4) and <a href="/climb/871" rel="noopener noreferrer">London Wall</a> (E5) which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16.</p>
<p>From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with <a href="/climber/722/john-bachar" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Bachar</a>, <a href="climber/728/john-long" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Long</a> and <a href="/climber/732/tony-yaniro" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tony Yaniro</a>. With Simon Horrox, he climbed <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved.</p>
<p>Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as <a href="/climb/880" rel="noopener noreferrer">West Side Story</a> at <a href="/crag/1303" rel="noopener noreferrer">Burbage West</a>. He was clearly going well in this period, as one onlooker recounts:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up <a href="/climb/6225/crescent-arête" rel="noopener noreferrer">Crescent Arête</a>, <a href="/climb/2032/not-to-be-taken-away" rel="noopener noreferrer">NTBTA</a>, <a href="/climb/3126/archangel" rel="noopener noreferrer">Archangel</a>, <a href="/climb/3127/don" rel="noopener noreferrer">Doug</a> [sic], <a href="/climb/870/white-wand" rel="noopener noreferrer">White Wand</a> (which I think he might have downclimbed) and <a href="/climb/881/ulysses'-bow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ulysses</a> plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less. It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible. [5]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Although his enthusiasm for climbing waned in the '90s, he returned to it in the 2010s, developing mid-grade sport routes in the limestone quarries of the Peak District.</p>
<p>John sadly died in a climbing accident at <a href="/crag/33827/stoney-west" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stoney West</a> in 2020 [4]. He remains a revered and fondly remembered figure in British climbing.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Obituary on <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a> by 
<a href="/climber/793/graham-hoey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Graham Hoey</a>, 27th May 2020  <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803</a></p>
<p>[2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g</a></p>
<p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/1096/geoff-birtles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Geoff Birtles</a> for <em>Crags</em> magazine in December 1976, shortly before John emmigrated to New Zealand <a href="https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/</a></p>
<p>[4] UKClimbing.com news report on the accident which killed John Allen (2020) <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708</a></p>

Before

John Allen was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the Peak District.

Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed [Old Friends](/climb/877) (E4) when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as [Hairless Heart](/climb/878), [White Wand](/climb/870) (E5), [Profit of Doom](/climb/879) (E4) and [London Wall](/climb/871) (E5) which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16.

From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with [John Bachar](/climber/722/john-bachar), [John Long](climber/728/john-long) and [Tony Yaniro](/climber/732/tony-yaniro). With Simon Horrox, he climbed [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved.

Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as [West Side Story](/climb/880) at [Burbage West](/crag/1303). He was clearly going in this period, as one onlooker recounts:

>I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up [Crescent Arête](/climb/6225/crescent-arête), [NTBTA](/climb/2032/not-to-be-taken-away), [Archangel](/climb/3126/archangel), [Doug](/climb/3127/don) [sic], [White Wand](/climb/870/white-wand) (which I think he might have downclimbed) and [Ulysses](/climb/881/ulysses'-bow) plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less. It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible. [5]

Although his enthusiasm for climbing waned in the '90s, he returned to it in the 2010s, developing mid-grade sport routes in the limestone quarries of the Peak District.

John sadly died in a climbing accident at [Stoney West](/crag/33827/stoney-west) in 2020 [4]. He remains a revered and fondly remembered figure in British climbing.

### References

[1] Obituary on [UKClimbing.com](https://www.ukclimbing.com/) by 
[Graham Hoey](/climber/793/graham-hoey), 27th May 2020  [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803)

[2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand [https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g)

[3] Interview with [Geoff Birtles](/climber/1096/geoff-birtles) for *Crags* magazine in December 1976, shortly before John emmigrated to New Zealand [https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/](https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/)

[4] UKClimbing.com news report on the accident which killed John Allen (2020) [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315)

[5] [https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708](https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708)

After

John Allen was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the Peak District.

Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed [Old Friends](/climb/877) (E4) when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as [Hairless Heart](/climb/878), [White Wand](/climb/870) (E5), [Profit of Doom](/climb/879) (E4) and [London Wall](/climb/871) (E5) which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16.

From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with [John Bachar](/climber/722/john-bachar), [John Long](climber/728/john-long) and [Tony Yaniro](/climber/732/tony-yaniro). With Simon Horrox, he climbed [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved.

Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as [West Side Story](/climb/880) at [Burbage West](/crag/1303). He was clearly going well in this period, as one onlooker recounts:

>I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up [Crescent Arête](/climb/6225/crescent-arête), [NTBTA](/climb/2032/not-to-be-taken-away), [Archangel](/climb/3126/archangel), [Doug](/climb/3127/don) [sic], [White Wand](/climb/870/white-wand) (which I think he might have downclimbed) and [Ulysses](/climb/881/ulysses'-bow) plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less. It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible. [5]

Although his enthusiasm for climbing waned in the '90s, he returned to it in the 2010s, developing mid-grade sport routes in the limestone quarries of the Peak District.

John sadly died in a climbing accident at [Stoney West](/crag/33827/stoney-west) in 2020 [4]. He remains a revered and fondly remembered figure in British climbing.

### References

[1] Obituary on [UKClimbing.com](https://www.ukclimbing.com/) by 
[Graham Hoey](/climber/793/graham-hoey), 27th May 2020  [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803)

[2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand [https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g)

[3] Interview with [Geoff Birtles](/climber/1096/geoff-birtles) for *Crags* magazine in December 1976, shortly before John emmigrated to New Zealand [https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/](https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/)

[4] UKClimbing.com news report on the accident which killed John Allen (2020) [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315)

[5] [https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708](https://ukbouldering.com/threads/the-most-impressive-piece-of-climbing-you%E2%80%99ve-witnessed.31061/post-626708)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -4,7 +4,7 @@

 

 From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with [John Bachar](/climber/722/john-bachar), [John Long](climber/728/john-long) and [Tony Yaniro](/climber/732/tony-yaniro). With Simon Horrox, he climbed [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved.

 

-Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as [West Side Story](/climb/880) at [Burbage West](/crag/1303). He was clearly going in this period, as one onlooker recounts:

+Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK in 1983 he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as [West Side Story](/climb/880) at [Burbage West](/crag/1303). He was clearly going well in this period, as one onlooker recounts:

 

 >I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up [Crescent Arête](/climb/6225/crescent-arête), [NTBTA](/climb/2032/not-to-be-taken-away), [Archangel](/climb/3126/archangel), [Doug](/climb/3127/don) [sic], [White Wand](/climb/870/white-wand) (which I think he might have downclimbed) and [Ulysses](/climb/881/ulysses'-bow) plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less. It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible. [5]

Before

Aged 12

After

Aged 12

### References

[1] [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1,5 @@

-Aged 12
+Aged 12

+

+### References

+

+[1] [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/)

Before

<p>Aged 12</p>

After

<p>Aged 12</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743988832/sizes/l/</a></p>

Before

None

After

6

Before

None

After

7

Before

None

After

1971-01-01

Before

None

After

1972-01-01

Before

None

After

1067

Before

None

After

546

Before

None

After

<p>Aged 12</p>

Before

None

After

Aged 12

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1 @@

-
+Aged 12

Before

1

After

7

Before

<p>Climbed by a teenage Allen during an intensely productive period after his parents had moved to New Zealand.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Did you lose interest?
I didn't really lose interest but I burnt out a bit. I was really intense about it. It was a traumatic time for me developing as a teenager into the warm wonderful human being that I am now. My parents had left and I was on my own and I wanted to see them again. I'd chosen climbing instead of my family and it went a bit empty on me after a while. I'd done a lot of the routes I'd dreamt of doing, like Prophet of Doom [sic]. I remember distinctly on that particular route feeling nothing when I reached the top. I live a lot on my feelings and generally it went a bit dead on me. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>Crags</em> Issue 1, page 2</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/</a></p>

After

<p>Climbed by a teenage Allen during an intensely productive period after his parents had moved to New Zealand.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Did you lose interest?</p>
<p>I didn't really lose interest but I burnt out a bit. I was really intense about it. It was a traumatic time for me developing as a teenager into the warm wonderful human being that I am now. My parents had left and I was on my own and I wanted to see them again. I'd chosen climbing instead of my family and it went a bit empty on me after a while. I'd done a lot of the routes I'd dreamt of doing, like Prophet of Doom [sic]. I remember distinctly on that particular route feeling nothing when I reached the top. I live a lot on my feelings and generally it went a bit dead on me. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>Crags</em> Issue 1, page 2</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/</a></p>

Before

Climbed by a teenage Allen during an intensely productive period after his parents had moved to New Zealand.

>Did you lose interest?
>I didn't really lose interest but I burnt out a bit. I was really intense about it. It was a traumatic time for me developing as a teenager into the warm wonderful human being that I am now. My parents had left and I was on my own and I wanted to see them again. I'd chosen climbing instead of my family and it went a bit empty on me after a while. I'd done a lot of the routes I'd dreamt of doing, like Prophet of Doom [sic]. I remember distinctly on that particular route feeling nothing when I reached the top. I live a lot on my feelings and generally it went a bit dead on me. [2]

### References

[1] *Crags* Issue 1, page 2

[2] [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/)

After

Climbed by a teenage Allen during an intensely productive period after his parents had moved to New Zealand.

>Did you lose interest?

>I didn't really lose interest but I burnt out a bit. I was really intense about it. It was a traumatic time for me developing as a teenager into the warm wonderful human being that I am now. My parents had left and I was on my own and I wanted to see them again. I'd chosen climbing instead of my family and it went a bit empty on me after a while. I'd done a lot of the routes I'd dreamt of doing, like Prophet of Doom [sic]. I remember distinctly on that particular route feeling nothing when I reached the top. I live a lot on my feelings and generally it went a bit dead on me. [2]

### References

[1] *Crags* Issue 1, page 2

[2] [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/50743982482/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,7 @@

 Climbed by a teenage Allen during an intensely productive period after his parents had moved to New Zealand.

 

 >Did you lose interest?

+

 >I didn't really lose interest but I burnt out a bit. I was really intense about it. It was a traumatic time for me developing as a teenager into the warm wonderful human being that I am now. My parents had left and I was on my own and I wanted to see them again. I'd chosen climbing instead of my family and it went a bit empty on me after a while. I'd done a lot of the routes I'd dreamt of doing, like Prophet of Doom [sic]. I remember distinctly on that particular route feeling nothing when I reached the top. I live a lot on my feelings and generally it went a bit dead on me. [2]

 

 ### References

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