Mono

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	11179	22nd May 2025 – 30th October 2026	117	13	586	1084
2	France	3482	22nd May 2025 – 2nd November 2026	32	13	175	330
3	USA	1774	30th July 2025 – 20th September 2026	26	56	167	88
4	Japan	1478	19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	14	25	107	73
5	Spain	319	31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026	3	9	35	13
6	Switzerland	229	31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026	2	5	21	15
7	New Zealand	216	19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	1	17	13
8	Canada	170	10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	9	25	3
9	Italy	166	12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026	2	7	19	7
10	Germany	151	8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026	4	6	10	5

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
1261	9th July 2026	11:13:46 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes
Before Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) After Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -10,7 +10,7 @@ > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] -After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. +After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
1262	9th July 2026	11:08:39 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> After <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
1263	9th July 2026	11:08:39 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes
Before Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) After Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): -> The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] +> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
1264	9th July 2026	10:53:32 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <p>The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> After <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
1265	9th July 2026	10:53:32 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes
Before The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) After Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,8 @@ -The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: +Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. + +A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. + +Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... @@ -6,7 +10,7 @@ > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] -After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed. +After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
1266	9th July 2026	10:39:56 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	Alternate Grade
Before `11` After `None`
1267	9th July 2026	10:17:55 UTC	Mono	ascent	Yuji Hirayama's ascent of The Big Issue	notes_pretty
Before `None` After `<p>All gear placed on lead</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451</a></p>`
1268	9th July 2026	10:17:55 UTC	Mono	ascent	Yuji Hirayama's ascent of The Big Issue	notes
Before `None` After `All gear placed on lead ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157) [2] [https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451](https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451)` Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,7 @@ - +All gear placed on lead + +### References + +[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157) + +[2] [https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451](https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451)`
1269	9th July 2026	10:16:33 UTC	Mono	ascent	Gareth Parry's ascent of The Big Issue	Ascent #
Before `None` After `4`
1270	9th July 2026	10:16:04 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Dunne's ascent of The Big Issue	notes_pretty
Before `<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921">https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921</a></p>` After `<p>Some in-situ gear</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921</a></p>`
1271	9th July 2026	10:16:04 UTC	Mono	ascent	John Dunne's ascent of The Big Issue	notes
Before `### References [1] [https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921](https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921)` After `Some in-situ gear ### References [1] [https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921](https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921)` Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1,3 +1,4 @@ +Some in-situ gear ### References [1] [https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921](https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921)`
1272	9th July 2026	10:15:14 UTC	Mono	ascent	Adrian Berry's ascent of The Big Issue	Ascent #
Before `None` After `3`
1273	9th July 2026	10:14:27 UTC	Mono	ascent	Steve McClure's ascent of The Big Issue	Ascent #
Before `None` After `2`
1274	9th July 2026	10:14:27 UTC	Mono	ascent	Steve McClure's ascent of The Big Issue	ascent_dt_end
Before `None` After `2001-01-01`
1275	9th July 2026	10:14:27 UTC	Mono	ascent	Steve McClure's ascent of The Big Issue	ascent_dt_start
Before `None` After `2000-01-01`
1276	9th July 2026	10:14:27 UTC	Mono	ascent	Steve McClure's ascent of The Big Issue	ascent_type_id
Before `None` After `1`
1277	9th July 2026	10:14:27 UTC	Mono	ascent	Steve McClure's ascent of The Big Issue	notes_pretty
Before `None` After `<p>Some in-situ gear</p>`
1278	9th July 2026	10:14:27 UTC	Mono	ascent	Steve McClure's ascent of The Big Issue	notes
Before `None` After `Some in-situ gear` Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1 +1 @@ - +Some in-situ gear`
1279	9th July 2026	10:14:27 UTC	Mono	ascent	Steve McClure's ascent of The Big Issue	ascent_style_id
Before `None` After `1`
1280	9th July 2026	10:14:27 UTC	Mono	ascent	Steve McClure's ascent of The Big Issue	climb_id
Before `None` After `603`

Before

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

After

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -10,7 +10,7 @@

 

 > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

 

-After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.

+After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

 

 [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

Before

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>

After

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>

Before

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

After

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -14,7 +14,7 @@

 

 [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

 

-> The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

+> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

 

 At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

Before

<p>The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>

After

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>

Before

The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

After

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,8 @@

-The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

+Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

+

+A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

+

+Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

 

 > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

 

@@ -6,7 +10,7 @@

 

 > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

 

-After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed.

+After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.

 

 [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

Before

11

After

None

Before

None

After

<p>All gear placed on lead</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451</a></p>

Before

None

After

All gear placed on lead

### References

[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157)

[2] [https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451](https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1,7 @@

-
+All gear placed on lead

+

+### References

+

+[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157)

+

+[2] [https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451](https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451)

Before

None

After

4

Before

<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921">https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921</a></p>

After

<p>Some in-situ gear</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921</a></p>

Before

### References

[1] [https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921](https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921)

After

Some in-situ gear
### References

[1] [https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921](https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,3 +1,4 @@

+Some in-situ gear

 ### References

 

 [1] [https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921](https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921)

Before

None

After

3

Before

None

After

2

Before

None

After

2001-01-01

Before

None

After

2000-01-01

Before

None

After

1

Before

None

After

<p>Some in-situ gear</p>

Before

None

After

Some in-situ gear

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1 @@

-
+Some in-situ gear

Before

None

After

1

Before

None

After

603

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