Mono

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	11179	22nd May 2025 – 30th October 2026	117	13	586	1084
2	France	3482	22nd May 2025 – 2nd November 2026	32	13	175	330
3	USA	1774	30th July 2025 – 20th September 2026	26	56	167	88
4	Japan	1478	19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	14	25	107	73
5	Spain	319	31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026	3	9	35	13
6	Switzerland	229	31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026	2	5	21	15
7	New Zealand	216	19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	1	17	13
8	Canada	170	10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	9	25	3
9	Italy	166	12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026	2	7	19	7
10	Germany	151	8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026	4	6	10	5

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
1241	9th July 2026	13:40:16 UTC	Mono	climb	Tribe	notes_pretty
Before `None` After <p>Perhaps the physically hardest trad route in the world when it was first climbed by <a href="/climber/590/jacopo-larcher" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jacopo Larcher</a> in March 2019. He did not grade the route.</p> <p>Larcher:</p> <blockquote> <p>“Tribe” (E none)</p> <p>I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/</a></p>
1242	9th July 2026	13:40:16 UTC	Mono	climb	Tribe	notes
Before `None` After Perhaps the physically hardest trad route in the world when it was first climbed by [Jacopo Larcher](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) in March 2019. He did not grade the route. Larcher: >“Tribe” (E none) >I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,10 @@ - +Perhaps the physically hardest trad route in the world when it was first climbed by [Jacopo Larcher](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) in March 2019. He did not grade the route. + +Larcher: +>“Tribe” (E none) + +>I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number. + +### References + +[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/)
1243	9th July 2026	11:49:38 UTC	Mono	climber	Steve McClure	notes_pretty
Before <p>Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p> <p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p> <p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and his 127-day magnum opus <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the Peak District.</p> <p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.</p> <blockquote> <p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p> <p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p> After <p>Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p> <p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, suggesting 9a – that being the top grade in the world at the time – but it proved even harder. A repeat took until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p> <p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and his 127-day magnum opus <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the Peak District.</p> <p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.</p> <blockquote> <p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p> <p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p>
1244	9th July 2026	11:49:38 UTC	Mono	climber	Steve McClure	notes
Before Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District. Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK. > The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world... ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509) [2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) On The Edge Issue 103, page 42 [3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y) After Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), suggesting 9a – that being the top grade in the world at the time – but it proved even harder. A repeat took until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District. Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK. > The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world... ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509) [2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) On The Edge Issue 103, page 42 [3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. -In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). +In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), suggesting 9a – that being the top grade in the world at the time – but it proved even harder. A repeat took until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District.
1245	9th July 2026	11:47:11 UTC	Mono	climber	Steve McClure	notes_pretty
Before <p>Steve McClure is a British sport climber and boulderer who was at the forefront of English and Welsh sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p> <p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise and along with it an upgrade to 9a+ making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p> <p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the peak district.</p> <p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK as of 2021.</p> <blockquote> <p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p> <p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p> After <p>Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p> <p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p> <p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and his 127-day magnum opus <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the Peak District.</p> <p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.</p> <blockquote> <p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p> <p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p>
1246	9th July 2026	11:47:11 UTC	Mono	climber	Steve McClure	notes
Before Steve McClure is a British sport climber and boulderer who was at the forefront of English and Welsh sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise and along with it an upgrade to 9a+ making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the peak district. Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK as of 2021. > The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world... ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509) [2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) On The Edge Issue 103, page 42 [3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y) After Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District. Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK. > The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world... ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509) [2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) On The Edge Issue 103, page 42 [3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,10 +1,10 @@ -Steve McClure is a British sport climber and boulderer who was at the forefront of English and Welsh sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. +Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. -In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise and along with it an upgrade to 9a+ making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). +In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). -Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the peak district. +Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District. -Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK as of 2021. +Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK. > The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world...
1247	9th July 2026	11:32:16 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p> After <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
1248	9th July 2026	11:32:16 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes
Before Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) After Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. -The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. +The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References
1249	9th July 2026	11:31:08 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p> After <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
1250	9th July 2026	11:31:08 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes
Before Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) After Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. -The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. +The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References
1251	9th July 2026	11:30:08 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p> After <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
1252	9th July 2026	11:30:08 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes
Before Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) After Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. -The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. +The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References
1253	9th July 2026	11:29:50 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p> After <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
1254	9th July 2026	11:29:50 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes
Before Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) After Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -18,7 +18,7 @@ At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] -The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. +The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
1255	9th July 2026	11:29:11 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p> After <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
1256	9th July 2026	11:29:11 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes
Before Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) After Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -10,7 +10,7 @@ > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] -After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. +After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
1257	9th July 2026	11:28:17 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	See Also
Before `None` After `713`
1258	9th July 2026	11:28:03 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> After <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
1259	9th July 2026	11:28:03 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes
Before Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) After Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -18,10 +18,16 @@ At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] +The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. + +The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. + ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) -[3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) +[3] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) + +[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
1260	9th July 2026	11:13:46 UTC	Mono	climb	Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> After <p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>

Before

None

After

<p>Perhaps the physically hardest trad route in the world when it was first climbed by <a href="/climber/590/jacopo-larcher" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jacopo Larcher</a> in March 2019. He did not grade the route.</p>
<p>Larcher:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>“Tribe” (E none)</p>
<p>I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/</a></p>

Before

None

After

Perhaps the physically hardest trad route in the world when it was first climbed by [Jacopo Larcher](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) in March 2019. He did not grade the route.

Larcher:
>“Tribe” (E none)

>I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number.

### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1,10 @@

-
+Perhaps the physically hardest trad route in the world when it was first climbed by [Jacopo Larcher](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) in March 2019. He did not grade the route.

+

+Larcher:

+>“Tribe” (E none)

+

+>I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number.

+

+### References

+

+[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/)

Before

<p>Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p>
<p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p>
<p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and his 127-day magnum opus <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the Peak District.</p>
<p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p>
<p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p>

After

<p>Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p>
<p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, suggesting 9a – that being the top grade in the world at the time – but it proved even harder. A repeat took until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p>
<p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and his 127-day magnum opus <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the Peak District.</p>
<p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p>
<p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p>

Before

Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.

In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).

Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District.

Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.

> The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world...

### References

[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509)

[2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) *On The Edge* Issue 103, page 42

[3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y)

After

Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.

In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), suggesting 9a – that being the top grade in the world at the time – but it proved even harder. A repeat took until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).

Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District.

Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.

> The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world...

### References

[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509)

[2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) *On The Edge* Issue 103, page 42

[3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

 Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.

 

-In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).

+In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), suggesting 9a – that being the top grade in the world at the time – but it proved even harder. A repeat took until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).

 

 Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District.

Before

<p>Steve McClure is a British sport climber and boulderer who was at the forefront of English and Welsh sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p>
<p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise and along with it an upgrade to 9a+ making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p>
<p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the peak district.</p>
<p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK as of 2021.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p>
<p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p>

After

<p>Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p>
<p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p>
<p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and his 127-day magnum opus <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the Peak District.</p>
<p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p>
<p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p>

Before

Steve McClure is a British sport climber and boulderer who was at the forefront of English and Welsh sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.

In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise and along with it an upgrade to 9a+ making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).

Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the peak district.

Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK as of 2021.

> The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world...

### References

[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509)

[2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) *On The Edge* Issue 103, page 42

[3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y)

After

Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.

In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).

Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District.

Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.

> The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world...

### References

[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509)

[2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) *On The Edge* Issue 103, page 42

[3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,10 +1,10 @@

-Steve McClure is a British sport climber and boulderer who was at the forefront of English and Welsh sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.

+Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.

 

-In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise and along with it an upgrade to 9a+ making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).

+In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).

 

-Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the peak district.

+Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District.

 

-Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK as of 2021.

+Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.

 

 > The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world...

Before

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

After

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

Before

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

After

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -20,7 +20,7 @@

 

 The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

 

-The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

+The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

After

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

Before

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

After

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -20,7 +20,7 @@

 

 The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

 

-The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

+The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

After

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

Before

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

After

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -20,7 +20,7 @@

 

 The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

 

-The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

+The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

After

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

Before

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

After

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -18,7 +18,7 @@

 

 At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

 

-The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

+The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

 

 The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

Before

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

After

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

Before

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

After

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -10,7 +10,7 @@

 

 > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

 

-After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

+After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

 

 [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

Before

None

After

713

Before

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>

After

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

Before

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

After

Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. 

A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.

Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.

[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):

> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References

[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -18,10 +18,16 @@

 

 At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]

 

+The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

+

+The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

 

 [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)

 

-[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
+[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)

+

+[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)

Before

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>

After

<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>

Badges

Contributions

Posts

0

58

62

23296

0

27

Contributions Map

Contributions by Country

Recent Contributions

< Page 63 >