Mono

Badges

100 Contributions1,000 Contributions10,000 Contributions10 Posts100 Posts

Contributions

Posts

1 Day

2

7 Days

8

4 Weeks

38

All Time

23148

Current Streak

1

Longest Streak

27

Contributions Map

Contributions by Country

Country Contributions Between Climbers Crags Summits Climbs Ascents
1 United Kingdom 11148 22nd May 2025 – 16th September 2026 114 13 0 586 1083
2 France 3430 22nd May 2025 – 29th August 2026 32 13 0 172 326
3 USA 1770 30th July 2025 – 14th August 2026 26 56 0 167 88
4 Japan 1478 19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026 14 25 0 107 73
5 Spain 319 31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026 3 9 0 35 13
6 Switzerland 229 31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026 2 5 0 21 15
7 New Zealand 216 19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026 1 1 0 17 13
8 Canada 170 10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026 1 9 0 25 3
9 Italy 166 12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026 2 7 0 19 7
10 Germany 151 8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026 4 6 0 10 5

Recent Contributions

Date Time User Type Name Attribute
1081 10th July 2026 14:10:26 UTC Mono ascent Shauna Coxsey's ascent of Quiet Storm climb_id
Before
None
After
8014
1082 10th July 2026 14:10:26 UTC Mono ascent Shauna Coxsey's ascent of Quiet Storm notes_pretty
Before
None
After
<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DanTe1-DLOd/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/DanTe1-DLOd/</a></p>
1083 10th July 2026 14:10:26 UTC Mono ascent Shauna Coxsey's ascent of Quiet Storm ascent_dt_end
Before
None
After
2026-07-10
1084 10th July 2026 14:10:26 UTC Mono ascent Shauna Coxsey's ascent of Quiet Storm ascent_type_id
Before
None
After
2
1085 10th July 2026 14:10:26 UTC Mono ascent Shauna Coxsey's ascent of Quiet Storm notes
Before
None
After
### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/DanTe1-DLOd/](https://www.instagram.com/p/DanTe1-DLOd/)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1,3 @@

-
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/DanTe1-DLOd/](https://www.instagram.com/p/DanTe1-DLOd/)
1086 10th July 2026 14:10:26 UTC Mono ascent Shauna Coxsey's ascent of Quiet Storm climber_id
Before
None
After
335
1087 10th July 2026 14:10:26 UTC Mono ascent Shauna Coxsey's ascent of Quiet Storm ascent_style_id
Before
None
After
1
1088 10th July 2026 14:10:26 UTC Mono ascent Shauna Coxsey's ascent of Quiet Storm ascent_dt_start
Before
None
After
2026-07-10
1089 9th July 2026 19:24:48 UTC Mono climber Aleister Crowley notes
Before
English occultist, ceremonial magician, poet, novelist, mountaineer, and painter. Crowley was a pioneer of adventurous climbing in Victorian Britain, establishing rock climbs (and early bouldering) in the Lake District and on the enormous chalk cliff of [Beachy Head](crag/1073/beachy-head). He ascended Mexican volcanoes and made the first ever attempts on [K2](summit/2/k2) (1902), [Kanchenjunga](summit/6/kangchenjunga) (1905). Both expeditions ended acrimoniously. [Ronald Turnbull](climber/3245/ronald-turnbull): >Some pretty unpleasant people have been great mountaineers […] In today’s celebrity circles, nastiness works for some as a career plan. But when it comes to pure, unadulterated evil, none can match the original monster of mountaineering, the Great Beast Aleister Crowley. ### References [1] [https://aboutmountains.substack.com/p/aleister-crowley-magus-and-mountaineer](https://aboutmountains.substack.com/p/aleister-crowley-magus-and-mountaineer) [2] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/351IFQ6dWHAvGjYlhk2JfL](https://open.spotify.com/episode/351IFQ6dWHAvGjYlhk2JfL)
After
English occultist, ceremonial magician, poet, novelist, mountaineer, and painter. Crowley was a pioneer of adventurous climbing in Victorian Britain, establishing rock climbs (and early bouldering) in the Lake District and on the enormous chalk cliff of [Beachy Head](crag/1073/beachy-head). He ascended Mexican volcanoes and made the first ever attempts on [K2](summit/2/k2) (1902) and [Kanchenjunga](summit/6/kangchenjunga) (1905). Both expeditions ended acrimoniously. [Ronald Turnbull](climber/3245/ronald-turnbull): >Some pretty unpleasant people have been great mountaineers […] In today’s celebrity circles, nastiness works for some as a career plan. But when it comes to pure, unadulterated evil, none can match the original monster of mountaineering, the Great Beast Aleister Crowley. ### References [1] [https://aboutmountains.substack.com/p/aleister-crowley-magus-and-mountaineer](https://aboutmountains.substack.com/p/aleister-crowley-magus-and-mountaineer) [2] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/351IFQ6dWHAvGjYlhk2JfL](https://open.spotify.com/episode/351IFQ6dWHAvGjYlhk2JfL)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

English occultist, ceremonial magician, poet, novelist, mountaineer, and painter.

-Crowley was a pioneer of adventurous climbing in Victorian Britain, establishing rock climbs (and early bouldering) in the Lake District and on the enormous chalk cliff of [Beachy Head](crag/1073/beachy-head). He ascended Mexican volcanoes and made the first ever attempts on [K2](summit/2/k2) (1902), [Kanchenjunga](summit/6/kangchenjunga) (1905). Both expeditions ended acrimoniously.
+Crowley was a pioneer of adventurous climbing in Victorian Britain, establishing rock climbs (and early bouldering) in the Lake District and on the enormous chalk cliff of [Beachy Head](crag/1073/beachy-head). He ascended Mexican volcanoes and made the first ever attempts on [K2](summit/2/k2) (1902) and [Kanchenjunga](summit/6/kangchenjunga) (1905). Both expeditions ended acrimoniously.

[Ronald Turnbull](climber/3245/ronald-turnbull):
>Some pretty unpleasant people have been great mountaineers […] In today’s celebrity circles, nastiness works for some as a career plan. But when it comes to pure, unadulterated evil, none can match the original monster of mountaineering, the Great Beast Aleister Crowley.
1090 9th July 2026 19:24:48 UTC Mono climber Aleister Crowley notes_pretty
Before
<p>English occultist, ceremonial magician, poet, novelist, mountaineer, and painter.</p> <p>Crowley was a pioneer of adventurous climbing in Victorian Britain, establishing rock climbs (and early bouldering) in the Lake District and on the enormous chalk cliff of <a href="crag/1073/beachy-head" rel="noopener noreferrer">Beachy Head</a>. He ascended Mexican volcanoes and made the first ever attempts on <a href="summit/2/k2" rel="noopener noreferrer">K2</a> (1902), <a href="summit/6/kangchenjunga" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kanchenjunga</a> (1905). Both expeditions ended acrimoniously. </p> <p><a href="climber/3245/ronald-turnbull" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ronald Turnbull</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Some pretty unpleasant people have been great mountaineers […] In today’s celebrity circles, nastiness works for some as a career plan. But when it comes to pure, unadulterated evil, none can match the original monster of mountaineering, the Great Beast Aleister Crowley.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://aboutmountains.substack.com/p/aleister-crowley-magus-and-mountaineer" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://aboutmountains.substack.com/p/aleister-crowley-magus-and-mountaineer</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/351IFQ6dWHAvGjYlhk2JfL" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/351IFQ6dWHAvGjYlhk2JfL</a></p>
After
<p>English occultist, ceremonial magician, poet, novelist, mountaineer, and painter.</p> <p>Crowley was a pioneer of adventurous climbing in Victorian Britain, establishing rock climbs (and early bouldering) in the Lake District and on the enormous chalk cliff of <a href="crag/1073/beachy-head" rel="noopener noreferrer">Beachy Head</a>. He ascended Mexican volcanoes and made the first ever attempts on <a href="summit/2/k2" rel="noopener noreferrer">K2</a> (1902) and <a href="summit/6/kangchenjunga" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kanchenjunga</a> (1905). Both expeditions ended acrimoniously. </p> <p><a href="climber/3245/ronald-turnbull" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ronald Turnbull</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Some pretty unpleasant people have been great mountaineers […] In today’s celebrity circles, nastiness works for some as a career plan. But when it comes to pure, unadulterated evil, none can match the original monster of mountaineering, the Great Beast Aleister Crowley.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://aboutmountains.substack.com/p/aleister-crowley-magus-and-mountaineer" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://aboutmountains.substack.com/p/aleister-crowley-magus-and-mountaineer</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/351IFQ6dWHAvGjYlhk2JfL" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/351IFQ6dWHAvGjYlhk2JfL</a></p>
1091 9th July 2026 13:46:03 UTC Mono ascent James Pearson's ascent of Tribe notes_pretty
Before
<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/second_ascent_of_tribe_-_worlds_hardest_trad_route_-_by_james_pearson-72593">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/second_ascent_of_tribe_-<em>worlds_hardest_trad_route</em>-_by_james_pearson-72593</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CjQhBBGoGrI/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CjQhBBGoGrI/</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>I've known about Tribe, or at least 'the big project at Cadarese' for about 10 years. I've walked past it many times on the way to the crag, and wondered if it was possible, to climb or protect. But, despite it only taking about two minutes to set up a static rope, I had never bothered to actually look at the thing. I guess deep down I thought it probably was impossible, like so many other king trad lines I've looked at over the years</p> <p>Whilst I can't say I've checked out every single trad route in the world, I have been on quite a few of them, and I've spent a lot of time searching for my own megaproject. For me, Tribe is by far the hardest series of moves I have ever done on a trad-route, and it's a real miracle that the thing is actually possible on gear. It's rare to find a piece of rock compact enough to make a series of sustained hard movements, but with just enough decent gear placements.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/second_ascent_of_tribe_-_worlds_hardest_trad_route_-_by_james_pearson-72593" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/second_ascent_of_tribe_-<em>worlds_hardest_trad_route</em>-_by_james_pearson-72593</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CjQhBBGoGrI/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CjQhBBGoGrI/</a></p>
1092 9th July 2026 13:46:03 UTC Mono ascent James Pearson's ascent of Tribe notes
Before
### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/second_ascent_of_tribe_-_worlds_hardest_trad_route_-_by_james_pearson-72593](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/second_ascent_of_tribe_-_worlds_hardest_trad_route_-_by_james_pearson-72593) [2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CjQhBBGoGrI/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CjQhBBGoGrI/)
After
>I've known about Tribe, or at least 'the big project at Cadarese' for about 10 years. I've walked past it many times on the way to the crag, and wondered if it was possible, to climb or protect. But, despite it only taking about two minutes to set up a static rope, I had never bothered to actually look at the thing. I guess deep down I thought it probably was impossible, like so many other king trad lines I've looked at over the years >Whilst I can't say I've checked out every single trad route in the world, I have been on quite a few of them, and I've spent a lot of time searching for my own megaproject. For me, Tribe is by far the hardest series of moves I have ever done on a trad-route, and it's a real miracle that the thing is actually possible on gear. It's rare to find a piece of rock compact enough to make a series of sustained hard movements, but with just enough decent gear placements. ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/second_ascent_of_tribe_-_worlds_hardest_trad_route_-_by_james_pearson-72593](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/second_ascent_of_tribe_-_worlds_hardest_trad_route_-_by_james_pearson-72593) [2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CjQhBBGoGrI/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CjQhBBGoGrI/)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,3 +1,7 @@

+>I've known about Tribe, or at least 'the big project at Cadarese' for about 10 years. I've walked past it many times on the way to the crag, and wondered if it was possible, to climb or protect. But, despite it only taking about two minutes to set up a static rope, I had never bothered to actually look at the thing. I guess deep down I thought it probably was impossible, like so many other king trad lines I've looked at over the years
+
+>Whilst I can't say I've checked out every single trad route in the world, I have been on quite a few of them, and I've spent a lot of time searching for my own megaproject. For me, Tribe is by far the hardest series of moves I have ever done on a trad-route, and it's a real miracle that the thing is actually possible on gear. It's rare to find a piece of rock compact enough to make a series of sustained hard movements, but with just enough decent gear placements.
+
### References

[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/second_ascent_of_tribe_-_worlds_hardest_trad_route_-_by_james_pearson-72593](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/second_ascent_of_tribe_-_worlds_hardest_trad_route_-_by_james_pearson-72593)
1093 9th July 2026 13:40:16 UTC Mono climb Tribe notes
Before
None
After
Perhaps the physically hardest trad route in the world when it was first climbed by [Jacopo Larcher](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) in March 2019. He did not grade the route. Larcher: >“Tribe” (E none) >I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1,10 @@

-
+Perhaps the physically hardest trad route in the world when it was first climbed by [Jacopo Larcher](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) in March 2019. He did not grade the route.
+
+Larcher:
+>“Tribe” (E none)
+
+>I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number.
+
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/)
1094 9th July 2026 13:40:16 UTC Mono climb Tribe notes_pretty
Before
None
After
<p>Perhaps the physically hardest trad route in the world when it was first climbed by <a href="/climber/590/jacopo-larcher" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jacopo Larcher</a> in March 2019. He did not grade the route.</p> <p>Larcher:</p> <blockquote> <p>“Tribe” (E none)</p> <p>I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/</a></p>
1095 9th July 2026 11:49:38 UTC Mono climber Steve McClure notes
Before
Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District. Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK. > The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world... ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509) [2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) *On The Edge* Issue 103, page 42 [3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y)
After
Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), suggesting 9a – that being the top grade in the world at the time – but it proved even harder. A repeat took until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District. Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK. > The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world... ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509) [2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) *On The Edge* Issue 103, page 42 [3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.

-In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).
+In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), suggesting 9a – that being the top grade in the world at the time – but it proved even harder. A repeat took until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).

Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District.
1096 9th July 2026 11:49:38 UTC Mono climber Steve McClure notes_pretty
Before
<p>Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p> <p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p> <p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and his 127-day magnum opus <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the Peak District.</p> <p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.</p> <blockquote> <p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p> <p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p>
After
<p>Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p> <p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, suggesting 9a – that being the top grade in the world at the time – but it proved even harder. A repeat took until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p> <p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and his 127-day magnum opus <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the Peak District.</p> <p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.</p> <blockquote> <p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p> <p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p>
1097 9th July 2026 11:47:11 UTC Mono climber Steve McClure notes_pretty
Before
<p>Steve McClure is a British sport climber and boulderer who was at the forefront of English and Welsh sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p> <p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise and along with it an upgrade to 9a+ making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p> <p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the peak district.</p> <p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK as of 2021.</p> <blockquote> <p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p> <p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p>
After
<p>Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.</p> <p>In 1998 he established <a href="/climb/392/mutation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mutation</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon's</a> <a href="/crag/608/kilnsey" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kilnsey</a> project to produce <a href="/climb/391/northern-lights" rel="noopener noreferrer">Northern Lights</a>.</p> <p>Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like <a href="/climb/7/rainshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainshadow</a>, <a href="/climb/389/overshadow" rel="noopener noreferrer">Overshadow</a> and his 127-day magnum opus <a href="/climb/4/rainman" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rainman</a> (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to <a href="/crag/610/malham-cove" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham Cove</a>, Kilnsey and the Peak District.</p> <p>Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of <a href="/climb/531/nightmayer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nightmayer</a> on <a href="/crag/4/dinas-cromlech" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dinas Cromlech</a> is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.</p> <blockquote> <p>The first time I came to <a href="/crag/610" rel="noopener noreferrer">Malham</a> it looked like the easiest crag in the world...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/697/keith-sharples" rel="noopener noreferrer">Keith Sharples</a> <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 103, page 42</p> <p>[3] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, Jan 2026 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y</a></p>
1098 9th July 2026 11:47:11 UTC Mono climber Steve McClure notes
Before
Steve McClure is a British sport climber and boulderer who was at the forefront of English and Welsh sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise and along with it an upgrade to 9a+ making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the peak district. Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK as of 2021. > The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world... ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509) [2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) *On The Edge* Issue 103, page 42 [3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y)
After
Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK. In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights). Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District. Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK. > The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world... ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509) [2] Interview with [Keith Sharples](/climber/697/keith-sharples) *On The Edge* Issue 103, page 42 [3] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), Jan 2026 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmM46vFn1Y)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,10 +1,10 @@

-Steve McClure is a British sport climber and boulderer who was at the forefront of English and Welsh sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.
+Steve McClure is a British climber who was at the forefront of sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s, and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.

-In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise and along with it an upgrade to 9a+ making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).
+In 1998 he established [Mutation](/climb/392/mutation) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise, and along with it an upgrade to 9a+, making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing [Ben Moon's](/climber/130/ben-moon) [Kilnsey](/crag/608/kilnsey) project to produce [Northern Lights](/climb/391/northern-lights).

-Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the peak district.
+Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like [Rainshadow](/climb/7/rainshadow), [Overshadow](/climb/389/overshadow) and his 127-day magnum opus [Rainman](/climb/4/rainman) (9b), as well as many other notable contributions to [Malham Cove](/crag/610/malham-cove), Kilnsey and the Peak District.

-Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK as of 2021.
+Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of [Nightmayer](/climb/531/nightmayer) on [Dinas Cromlech](/crag/4/dinas-cromlech) is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK.

> The first time I came to [Malham](/crag/610) it looked like the easiest crag in the world...
1099 9th July 2026 11:32:16 UTC Mono climb Indian Face notes
Before
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -20,7 +20,7 @@


The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.

-The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
+The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.

### References
1100 9th July 2026 11:32:16 UTC Mono climb Indian Face notes_pretty
Before
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>

< Page 55 >