| Country | Contributions | Between | Climbers | Crags | Summits | Climbs | Ascents | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | United Kingdom | 11148 | 22nd May 2025 – 16th September 2026 | 114 | 13 | 0 | 586 | 1083 |
| 2 | France | 3430 | 22nd May 2025 – 29th August 2026 | 32 | 13 | 0 | 172 | 326 |
| 3 | USA | 1770 | 30th July 2025 – 14th August 2026 | 26 | 56 | 0 | 167 | 88 |
| 4 | Japan | 1478 | 19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026 | 14 | 25 | 0 | 107 | 73 |
| 5 | Spain | 319 | 31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026 | 3 | 9 | 0 | 35 | 13 |
| 6 | Switzerland | 229 | 31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026 | 2 | 5 | 0 | 21 | 15 |
| 7 | New Zealand | 216 | 19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026 | 1 | 1 | 0 | 17 | 13 |
| 8 | Canada | 170 | 10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026 | 1 | 9 | 0 | 25 | 3 |
| 9 | Italy | 166 | 12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026 | 2 | 7 | 0 | 19 | 7 |
| 10 | Germany | 151 | 8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026 | 4 | 6 | 0 | 10 | 5 |
| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1101 | 9th July 2026 | 11:31:08 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes | |
|
Before
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.
The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.
The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 1102 | 9th July 2026 | 11:31:08 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 1103 | 9th July 2026 | 11:30:08 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 1104 | 9th July 2026 | 11:30:08 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes | |
|
Before
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.
The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.
The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 1105 | 9th July 2026 | 11:29:50 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes | |
|
Before
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.
The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.
The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 1106 | 9th July 2026 | 11:29:50 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 1107 | 9th July 2026 | 11:29:11 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 1108 | 9th July 2026 | 11:29:11 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes | |
|
Before
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.
The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.
The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 1109 | 9th July 2026 | 11:28:17 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | See Also | |
|
Before
None
After
713
|
|||||||
| 1110 | 9th July 2026 | 11:28:03 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a> up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p>
<p>The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 1111 | 9th July 2026 | 11:28:03 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes | |
|
Before
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall) up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.
The route was then seemingly neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A flood of repeats in a similar style followed in 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023.
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
[4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 1112 | 9th July 2026 | 11:13:46 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>; he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 1113 | 9th July 2026 | 11:13:46 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes | |
|
Before
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation); he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 1114 | 9th July 2026 | 11:08:39 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 1115 | 9th July 2026 | 11:08:39 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes | |
|
Before
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 1116 | 9th July 2026 | 10:53:32 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p>
<p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p>
<p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p>
<p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p>
<p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p>
<p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 1117 | 9th July 2026 | 10:53:32 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | notes | |
|
Before
The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground.
A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.
Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:
> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair.
[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes):
> The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]
At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3]
### References
[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
[3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 1118 | 9th July 2026 | 10:39:56 UTC | Mono | climb | Indian Face | Alternate Grade | |
|
Before
11
After
None
|
|||||||
| 1119 | 9th July 2026 | 10:17:55 UTC | Mono | ascent | Yuji Hirayama's ascent of The Big Issue | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<p>All gear placed on lead</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 1120 | 9th July 2026 | 10:17:55 UTC | Mono | ascent | Yuji Hirayama's ascent of The Big Issue | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
All gear placed on lead
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/yuji_hirayama_climbs_the_big_issue_e9-69157)
[2] [https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451](https://www.facebook.com/yujihirayama.climber/posts/791484154205451)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||