Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Sierra Madre Boulder problem 8C 7
Southern Smoke Sport route 8c+ 7
Southern Smoke Direct Sport route 9a 7
Speed Intégrale Sport route 9a 7
Statement of Youth Sport route 8a 7

One of the first 8as in the UK. The name is a play on the book Testament of Youth and the fact Ben Moon was a meagre 18 years old when he made the first ascent.

Steck - Salathé Trad climb E2 7

5.10b

References

[1] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105862873/steck-salathe

Steinbukken Boulder problem 8A+ 7

Rogaland, Norway

Stingray Trad climb E9 7
Stolen Sport route 8b 7

Currently (2023) the hardest first ascent by a woman in the UK after Karin Magog made the first ascent in 2006.

Street Fighter Sit Boulder problem 8B+ 7
Superbloc Boulder problem 8A+ 7

Originally given E8, the landing has since been substantially improved to make for a more approachable 8A+.

Surgical Lust Trad climb E7 7
Tainted Love aka Northern Soul Trad climb E8 7
Terremer Boulder problem 8C 7
The Book of Hate Trad climb E9 7
The Dark Side Trad climb E8 7
The Death Star Sport route 8c 7
The Direct Line Trad climb E8 7

...I don't have a preference. It's called The Direct Line, but it was known as the Platinum Wall before it was ever established, for the simple explanation that I was up there a long, long time. So, in the sense we don't get to choose our nicknames, mine being Platinum...

The longest free route on El Capitan. 75% independent of other routes, incorporates some climbing from Turning Point, Grape Race, Triple Direct (E9), and preMuir (E8). Worked on by Rob Miller, Elliot Faber and other partners between 2010 and 2017. Successful ascent by Miller and Roby Rudolf in October 2017.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214580/El-Capitan-The-Direct-Line

[2] https://www.facebook.com/groups/Bigwallsforum/posts/2303846090037362/?comment_id=2304061040015867&reply_comment_id=2308530569568914

[3] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=1933225463464467&set=a.446589598794735

The Elder Statesman Sport route 9a 7
The Groove Sport route 8a+ 7

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