Climbs / Index

Sport routes

Ordered by the number of ascents recorded.

All Boulder problems 3,311 Trad climbs 2,602 Sport routes 2,187 Deep water solos 104 Aid Climbs 61 Boulder problems (indoor) 29 Alpine 24 Traverses 19 High Mountain 18
Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Los Tacos de los Dos Rigolos Sport route 8a 1
Lost Castle of My Desires Sport route 8a+ 1

A slate off-width in Gideon Quarry, Llanberis. It's not clear to what extent the route was bolted, if at all. It fell down a few months after Stevie Haston's first ascent, in 1987.

1992 Slate guide:

THE LAND THAT GOD FORGOT The right hand side of the quarry, when one emerges from the first tunnel, was once the location of a steep prow, cleft by an overhanging crack. This was the location of the Lost Castle of my Desires, an intriguing test piece in off-width climbing, sadly(?) the many tons of debris strewn across the floor of the quarry are a testament to its demise. [1]

Haston:

Without doubt the most shag nasty, brutal mind fucking crack around. [2]

Described in an interview as:

a 2 to 9 inch, 40 degree overhanging crack in the Llanberis slate quarries. It was 80 foot long and weighed in about F8a+. It never got a second ascent as it fell down. Shame as the route and name were brilliant. [3]

References

[1] Slate, Iwan Arfon Jones, Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley, 1992.

[2] Llanberis Slate, Ground Up, 2011.

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/12/stevie_haston_crushes_greenspit-50641
Los Últimos Vampiros Hippies Sport route 8c 1
Lou Marzeou Sport route 8b+ 1
Love Sport route 8b+ 1

An extensions of Ron Kauk's classic line Peace which adds a third pitch, taking it to a belay ledge on the Bachar-Yerian.
Love 2.1 Sport route 8c+ 1
L’Ultimo Ruggito Sport route 9a 1
Lülü Sport route 9a 1
Lulworth Arms Treaty Sport route 7b 1
Lumiere Sport route 8b+ 1
Madame Briam Sport route 8b+ 1
Madame Ching Sport route 9b 1

The route is named after the female pirate Zheng Yi Sao who was born in 18th century China.

Located in a ‘private climbing garden’ near Eiter’s home, Imst, Tyrol Austria.

References

[1] https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/12/angy-eiter-klettert-madame-ching-9b/?amp=1
Mad at the Sun Sport route 7c 1
Made in Bougaux Sport route 9a 1

References

[1] Lucien Martinez discusses the route on BlokCast https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9HNgEpJink
Mad Lib Sport route 9a 1
Magnetic North Sport route 8c+ 1
Magnetic Pull Sport route 8a 1
Main Overhang Sport route 8a 1
Makach Walou Sport route 7c+ 1
Malcolm X Sport route 8b+ 1

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