A slate off-width in Gideon Quarry, Llanberis. It's not clear to what extent the route was bolted, if at all. It fell down a few months after Stevie Haston's first ascent, in 1987.
1992 Slate guide:
THE LAND THAT GOD FORGOT The right hand side of the quarry, when one emerges from the first tunnel, was once the location of a steep prow, cleft by an overhanging crack. This was the location of the Lost Castle of my Desires, an intriguing test piece in off-width climbing, sadly(?) the many tons of debris strewn across the floor of the quarry are a testament to its demise. [1]
Haston:
Without doubt the most shag nasty, brutal mind fucking crack around. [2]
Described in an interview as:
a 2 to 9 inch, 40 degree overhanging crack in the Llanberis slate quarries. It was 80 foot long and weighed in about F8a+. It never got a second ascent as it fell down. Shame as the route and name were brilliant. [3]
[1] Slate, Iwan Arfon Jones, Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley, 1992.
[2] Llanberis Slate, Ground Up, 2011.
[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/12/stevie_haston_crushes_greenspit-50641
1 recorded ascents.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stevie Haston | Lead | worked | May 1987 | |
|
First ascent.
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