Boulder problems

In 2008 Taylor Parsons and Dave Pearson added this project line to the first edition Grampians Bouldering guidebook, thinking that it wasn't actually possible. Alex Megos made the first ascent in 2013.

Lofoten, Norway

So named because the road to the crag was due to shut for 2 years for repairs so the pressure was on for Austin Purdy to make the first ascent. In the event he missed the deadline but snuck in on an e-bike before snow came in and properly shut things down.

The enticing upper crack was previously climbed by Craig Smith in 1984 by climbing on the shoulders of a couple of willing accomplices and called The Czech Stand, after the combined tactics used on some of the sandstone towers in Czechia.

Mick Ryan on the team ascent:

Up on Barden Moor at Rylestone there lies a boulder split at half-height by an incipient crack which expands into a double-fist crack. The crack itself is tricky but the real problem lies in executing the two moves needed to reach it. Many shit-hot teams have successfully completed the mammoth walk-in but failed miserably on the rockover and reach into the crack. However, Craig Smith, Greg Rimmer and Dave Humberstone (combined weight 4 tons), fortified with cocoa, made the excursion up to God's own boulder to perform a miracle. They failed but all was not lost. Smith, recently back from a trip behind the Iron Curtain, introduced the troops to a technique known as Czech teck (or point) and success was soon acquired. (see photo). However, in addition to the two aid points to reach the crack Craig needed a third to get off the top when his knee jammed and his heart began beating very fast, although he denies this. It hardly needs to be said that THE COCOA TEAM SPECIAL (HVD - that's Hard Very Devious) still needs a traditional English ascent - that's if there is such a thing! [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 3 (1987) page 11 /library/16471/on-the-edge-3