Climbs / Index

All climbs

Ordered by the number of ascents recorded.

All Boulder problems 3,309 Trad climbs 2,600 Sport routes 2,184 Deep water solos 104 Aid Climbs 61 Boulder problems (indoor) 29 Alpine 24 Traverses 19 High Mountain 18
Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Archangel Trad climb E3 5

Archangel is the quintessential gritstone arête: bold, insecure and utterly compelling.

Don Whillans top-roped the line in 1954, pinching the arête face-on and gripping it between his knees, which had rubber inner-tubes attached to them. In 1971 Ed Drummond made the first ascent, laybacking it on the left side. In 1985 he climbed it on the right side, naming it Don (E4).

Peak Rock:

Again and again, Ed Drummond found relatively reasonable solutions simply by experimenting. Even in 1972, Archangel wasn't as hard as many other gritstone routes. It was the concept of a blank unprotected arête and the sustained, technical laybacking required to subjugate it which had stopped earlier efforts. [1]

Niall Grimes:

Matthew, in chapter 14, tells the story of the disciples seeing Jesus walk on the lake:

28 Peter called to Him 'Lord, if it is you, tell me to come to you over the water'. 'Come' said Jesus.
29 Peter stepped down from the boat and walked over the water towards Jesus.
30 But when he saw the strength of the gale he was seized with fear; and beginning to sink, he cried 'Save me, Lord.'
31 Jesus at once reached out and caught hold of him, and said, 'Why did you hesitate? How little faith you have!'

This bible story serves well as an illustration of what you need to climb Archangel. It will confound the Book of Numbers. A man may well boulder 6c and redpoint 7c, but without faith he is no more likely to succeed than the man who has bouldered 5c, for without faith, even a rich man is more likely to get into the Kingdom of God than to climb Archangel. And you must have faith, not in the hand of god, but in thyself. [2]

Adam Long:

No holds on Archangel? What are you talking about? It’s the biggest hold on the crag! [3]

References

[1] Peak Rock, Vertebrate Publishing, 2013

[2] On The Edge Issue 67, page 43

[3] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/any-shorties-done-stall.6000/#post-84556

Autobahn Trad climb E9 5
Baboonmaster Edge Boulder problem 8A 5
Bailout Boulder problem 8B+ 5
Batman Sport route 9a 5
Beginner's Mind Trad climb E7 5
Benign Lives Trad climb E7 5
Big Kat Boulder problem 8B+ 5
Birch Problem Boulder problem 8B 5
Black Mamba Trad climb E9 5
Blomu R3 Sport route 8c+ 5
Bloody Mary Boulder problem 8B+ 5
Blue Eyes and Exit Wounds Boulder problem 8B 5
Bokassa's Fridge Boulder problem 8C 5
Boot Boys Sport route 8a+ 5
Bricktop Sport route 8b 5

The route gets it's name from a scene in the film Snatch where the character Brick Top gives a speech where he defines the word Nemesis.

Bullet Sport route 8a+ 5
Bunda De Fora Sport route 9a 5
Catatonica Boulder problem 8A 5
Chimaera Sport route 8a+ 5

On the southern sandstone where the ethic is to top rope routes, due to the fragile nature of the rock.

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