Aid Climbs

6c | A4. A visionary attempt on the East Face of Cerro Torre, Proctor and Burke retreated from just short of the junction with the west ridge.

References

[1] https://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/torregroup/torre/english.html

Named after Will Oxx's base jump off the top after finishing the route.

An extraordinary adventure taking on the main challenge of the enormous St John's Head.

Dave MacLeod:

The Longhope route was first climbed as an aid route by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. After climbing it yesterday I have a doubly renewed respect for the boldness of climbers of that period. To venture up that cliff without cams, taking the steepest line possible was a hardcore effort. They spent 7 days climbing the route, sleeping in hammocks or in the big sandstone breaks with the fulmars.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198615703

Climbed shortly after the Wall of Early Morning Light as an alternative way to gain the upper dihedrals on that route. Many pitches are free climbed by Passage to Freedom. Some of the upper pitches are free climbed by The Dawn Wall.

"Peering at El Cap by moonlight reveals five obvious lines. Son of Heart was the only one yet unclimbed" (Sylvester)

The Nietsche and Kierkegaard chimneys of Son of Heart are climbed by El Corazon.

References

[1] McNamara, C and Van Leuven, C (2011). Yosemite Big Walls (3rd Ed.). USA: SuperTopo

Sieged with fixed ropes over 40 days. Made national news and Baldwin and Cooper were local celebrities for a time.

First a few people saw us, the word spread, and soon the few turned to many, until one weekend 12,000 cars jammed the highway to the little town of Squamish. We accepted the kind offers of the people of Squamish, and were sponsored with a hotel room, new boots, our choice of restaurants, and 1500 feet of very badly needed nylon rope. When seen walking back to our cars after coming off the face it was not uncommon for cars to gather, many people asking for autographs. When we were on the face, every afternoon the school bus would stop at 3:30 and the children would cheer from the highway. (Ed Cooper)

Now generally climbed mostly free at 5.11 A0.

References

[1] https://gripped.com/profiles/canadas-most-iconic-big-wall-rock-climb/

[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196206100/The-Squamish-Chief

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/DX4vZEUAYtC/

VI A3 5.9

The fourth major route to be climbed on El Capitan.

References

[1] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/121681353/west-buttress

References

[1] https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wings-Steel-Perspective-Christian-Continuous/dp/082800739X