Trad climbs

First aid climbed at A2, Free climbed at Norwegian 8

Free climbing the roof pitch increases the difficulty significantly.

First free ascent of the main angel falls amphitheatre wall by a substantially new line. Its 31 pitches included nine E7s and took the seven-person team nineteen days to climb. The route overhangs some 60m in its 1,000m length, making it a contender for the most overhanging big wall in the world.

The route was approached from the ground with the hardest pitches headpointed. No bolts were placed for lead protection, five were placed as portaledge anchors. The team took three weeks to ascend the wall, living off portaledges for most of it. Miles Gibson did pitch 27, E7 6b, after 16 days on the wall.

Route: Rainbow Jambaia (31 pitches, E7 6b): All-free ascent of the Angel Falls wall, following the general line of Ruta Directa (1,150m, VI 6b A4, Gálvez-Medinabeitía, 1990), with many variations and an independent finish for the final eight pitches; Anne Arran, John Arran (U.K.), Ivan Calderón (Ven.), Miles Gibson (U.K.), Ben Heason (U.K.), Alex Klenov (Rus.), and Alfredo Rangel (Ven.), March 18-April 5, 2005.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200613400/Rainbow-Jambaia

Initially climbed with side runners at E5 and called Against All Odds. Gareth Parry was the first to solo it and restored the route's working name.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 90, page 70

Unlikely to have been repeated since the loss of pebbles around 2002/3.

~8a+ on fiddly and not-amazing gear.