Eder Lomba

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=freZNzGm0jA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MCJ4YzEUEQ

https://www.instagram.com/reel/COroQF6DPUE/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQI0UVoDNRs/

The long awaited second ascent.

The day before I did it I told myself that this Friday will be the last day I will try it this season, due to work and summer getting so close, I wasn't going to have the chance to come back. When I got to the crag I knew I was going to do it, something in the back of my mind was really aware of that. [3]

Eder was the first person to climb the line while making extensive use of the knee bar rest after the Rainshadow crux. Steve McClure had tried the knee but was unable to get much out of it, but after extensive training Eder was able to rest there for around 2mins on the successful go.

When I first tried the kneebar I couldn’t get no hands, took me 3-4 sessions to get 5 seconds no hands, and months training my legs so I could stay longer, last November managed for the first time 1 min on the kneebar and after a winter of training I got 3 min for the first time last month. The kneebar is hard very painful and super intense, what you see on the video is the outcome of loads of really hard work, loads of pain and loads off pinning off the kneebar buttering your knees… My mate Josh Ibbertson is also trying the route with the same knee pads and he struggles to get 30 seconds no hands… he is been trying the route for as long as I have.

So the training, I did loads of strength training like weighted squad deadlifting. Also some pain tolerance training for my right toes, because the kneebar is so intense that my right toe will really hurt due to the pressure you inevitably apply on the heel. All that pressure transfers through the shoe getting really tight on the toes. [4]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAeVbsv0mgc

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CdnEuVmD5Ec/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/05/eder_lomba_makes_second_ascent_of_rainman_9b-73054

[4] https://www.8a.nu/news/lombas-9b-knee-pad-technique-and-leg-strength-story-nio3r

[5] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/eder-lomba-talks-about-his-climbing-and-rainman-ascent/