Pete Livesey

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Notable Partnerships
Ron Fawcett

One thing that one sees in climbing is that over the period of years influential figures come along...and because of their activities they seem to trigger other people off, and I think that Livesey is one of these. Ok he may not be the finest climber, maybe there are others that are better, but his activities were so widespread, diverse and sensational in nature that people were talking about it. He was the controversial figure of the day. [1]

Livsey was an early proponent of training for climbing, a practice that was then taken on board and used to great affect by the following generation of climbers including Ron Fawcett, Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon.

Mick Ward:

In running, kayaking and caving, he'd been prevented from being the absolute best by lack of natural talent. Pete looked at climbing more carefully, saw an athletic curve just beginning to take off, knew the time was ripe for him to make his move. [2]

References

[1] Ken Wilson in Rock Athlete

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_stone_children_-_cutting_edge_climbing_in_the_1970s-13297

Contributors
178 contributions since 30th August 2021.
43 contributions since 2nd October 2025.
TdG
29 contributions since 19th September 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Notable Partnerships
Ron Fawcett

One thing that one sees in climbing is that over the period of years influential figures come along...and because of their activities they seem to trigger other people off, and I think that Livesey is one of these. Ok he may not be the finest climber, maybe there are others that are better, but his activities were so widespread, diverse and sensational in nature that people were talking about it. He was the controversial figure of the day. [1]

Livsey was an early proponent of training for climbing, a practice that was then taken on board and used to great affect by the following generation of climbers including Ron Fawcett, Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon.

Mick Ward:

In running, kayaking and caving, he'd been prevented from being the absolute best by lack of natural talent. Pete looked at climbing more carefully, saw an athletic curve just beginning to take off, knew the time was ripe for him to make his move. [2]

References

[1] Ken Wilson in Rock Athlete

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_stone_children_-_cutting_edge_climbing_in_the_1970s-13297

Contributors
178 contributions since 30th August 2021.
43 contributions since 2nd October 2025.
TdG
29 contributions since 19th September 2025.

Library

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Pics + Vids

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Ascents

37 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Zero First ascent. E7 Lead | worked Jul 1979

Lead with a high side runner in Goliath's Groove. Livesey did not claim the line.

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jtgvwb8VGJU

[2] Mountain 35 (1974), page 11 /library/11054/mountain-35

References

[1] Mountain 43 (1975), page 11 /library/11076/mountain-43
Mossdale Trip First ascent. E6 Lead | worked 1977
Das Kapital First ascent. E6 Lead | worked

References

[1] Mountain 19 (1972), page 14
Doubting Thomas First ascent. 2 points of aid. E5 Lead | worked 1971

Ken Wilson [?]:

After two abseil inspections to clean loose rock and study the line, Livesey linked up an intricate series of holds and ledges, to gain the traverse ledge of the girdle, without aid either for resting or progress. The prospect of unprotected and fierce climbing ahead stopped him at this point and, after tying off his rope, he soloed off up Cemetery Gates to have a further inspection from a rope, and to try two alternatives with jumar protection. Returning to the ledge, he pulled down the rope and finished the route, although the chosen alternative proved more difficult and sustained than expected. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 37, page 13 /library/11056/mountain-37

References

[1] Mountain 37, page 13 /library/11056/mountain-37
London Wall E5 Lead Between 1st Jul 1975 and 31st Dec 1976

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAm10A3QFBo

Only The Best Route In The World

The Golden Mile First ascent. E5 Lead | worked Jul 1980

References

[1] https://youtu.be/dnGh-hggvxs?t=611

[2] Mountain 35 (1974), page 11 /library/11054/mountain-35

References

[1] Mountain 39 (1974), page 9 /library/11058/mountain-39

References

[1] Mountain 37, page 12 /library/11056/mountain-37

Fawcett and Livesey climbed this as part of a longer link up. It's unclear who led this pitch.

References

[1] Mountain 38, page 10 /library/11057/mountain-38

References

[1] Mountain 37, page 14 /library/11056/mountain-37

References

[1] Mountain 47 (1975), page 13 /library/11078/mountain-47

References

[1] Mountain 43 (1975), page 11 /library/11076/mountain-43

References

[1] Mountain 43 (1975), page 11 /library/11076/mountain-43

Free via a right-hand variation
Cream With Ron Fawcett. E4 Lead | worked 1976

A controversial ascent as holds were chipped prior to it being climbed, though Livesey never admitted to the chipping.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 44.

[2] https://youtu.be/dnGh-hggvxs?t=934
Fingerlicker First ascent. E4 Lead | worked 11th May 1977

References

[1] Mountain 19 (1972), page 14

References

[1] https://youtu.be/dnGh-hggvxs?t=120

References

[1] Mountain Issue 21, page 12
Darius First ascent. First free ascent. E3 Lead 1974

References

[1] Mountain 32 (1974), page 14 /library/11051/mountain-32
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys With Pete Gomersall. First free ascent. E3 Alternate Leads 1975
Stroll On E3 Second 5th May 1976
Memory Lane First ascent. With Jill Lawrence and Gill Price. E3 Lead Jul 1976
Foil First ascent. E3 Lead 1st Jul 1976

Largely solo, though a back rope was used to protect the crux section.

References

[1] Mountain 43 (1975), page 10 /library/11076/mountain-43
Debauchery With John Sheard. E1 Alternate Leads 1967
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade