Pre-Marital Tension | E8 Trad climb at Cribba Head

More

• Change Log
• Threads

References

[1] Mountain Issue 131 (1990), page 16 /library/11316/mountain-131

References

[1] Mountain Issue 131 (1990), page 16 /library/11316/mountain-131

This must be one of the finest aretes in the country, and is as difficult and serious as Question Mark E9 7a. Sky hooks were placed on lead to protect the 6c sequence above but are probably too low to protect the hardest move, just below a break where a rock 5 can be placed. [2]

Dave Henderson:

Ken described Pre-Marital as being more of a psychologically hard route than Question Mark as the climbing is of a more precarious, delicate nature. Ken eventually led the route using four tied-down Skyhooks (placed on the lead, then down climbing to the ground to tie them down) just as it was starting to rain! (Ken decided he had to do it on that trip as he had a full support team with him - Doctor, photographer (Nick Hancock) and trustworthy belayer (Simon Blagdon). [1]

References

[1] https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/SouthWestDevelopments/index.shtml

[2] One The Edge Issue 91, page 10