Ed Drummond

Also known as: Ed-Ward Drummond and Edwin Ward-Drummond

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of death: 23rd April 2019
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 6A
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E4
Notable Partnerships
Oliver R Hill

Mick Ward:

Ed Drummond was probably the most visionary figure in British climbing history. He left a legacy of stunning routes and superb writing. And he had a reputation for having the most complicated, mercurial character imaginable. [2]

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/a-dream-of-edwin-drummond

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[3] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/rip_ed_drummond-704064

[4] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3195076/RIP-Edwin-Drummond

[5] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/thats-me-ed-drummond

Contributors
200 contributions since 9th February 2022.
19 contributions since 2nd October 2025.
TdG
9 contributions since 22nd September 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of death: 23rd April 2019
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 6A
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E4
Notable Partnerships
Oliver R Hill

Mick Ward:

Ed Drummond was probably the most visionary figure in British climbing history. He left a legacy of stunning routes and superb writing. And he had a reputation for having the most complicated, mercurial character imaginable. [2]

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/a-dream-of-edwin-drummond

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[3] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/rip_ed_drummond-704064

[4] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3195076/RIP-Edwin-Drummond

[5] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/thats-me-ed-drummond

Contributors
200 contributions since 9th February 2022.
19 contributions since 2nd October 2025.
TdG
9 contributions since 22nd September 2025.

Library

View all library items

Pics + Vids

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Ascents

25 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
Sort
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Banana Finger 6A Boulder | worked 1971
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Longhope Route Direct E9 Aid | worked Jul 1970
First ascent.
Linden E6 Lead 1973
First ascent. 2 points of aid.

With 2 skyhooks placed in drilled divots for aid, a source of controversy at the time. Keith Myhill wrote in a letter to Mountain Magazine:

This event must surely mark the lowest point in gritstone climbing for a very long time.

To which Drummond replied:

…Rome wasn't built in a day, nor Cenotaph ascended by Saint Joseph without a pin here and a pin there. And Quietus top-roped first. I'm still learning how to learn. Silly Myhill. It isn't your hill. The route is there for you too. Go on – open your legs – let's see what you can do. Balancing on those two impeccable skyhooks should keep you quiet. You might even learn to pray; and not prey.

Though in a later interview he repented:

I erred and was willing to err. If you are creating something, to a degree you have a right to define the way in which to create and I was willing to chip holds… I was different, in that I was wilful and was prepared to change the rock to suit me because I was at the cutting edge and had a right to blunt it a little. I was wrong.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[2] Mountain 28 (1973), page 15 /library/9632/mountain-28

[3] Mountain 31 (1974), page 39 /library/11050/mountain-31
Absolutely Fabulous (Nelson's Column) E6 Aid 20th Oct 1978
With Colin Rowe.

As part of an anti-apartheid protest.

References

[1] https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2016/oct/21/anti-apartheid-protestors-make-first-ascent-of-nelsons-column-1978
Don't Slip E5 Lead | worked 5th Apr 1972
First ascent. Belayed by Tom Proctor.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 21, page 12
White Wand E5 Solo | worked 1975
Second ascent.

Climbed three days after Allen and mistakenly claimed as a first ascent, named 'Wind'
The Boldest E4 Lead | ground up 1967

Over three days!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940
Chameleon E4 Lead 1975
First ascent.
Don E4 Solo 1985
First ascent.
Great Wall E4 Lead | onsight
Fifth ascent. Belayed by Pete Crew.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940
The Blik E3 Lead May 1967
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
Krapp's Last Tape E3 Lead May 1967
First ascent.
St. John's Head Original Route E3 Alternate Leads Between 6th Apr 1969 and 9th Apr 1969
First ascent. With some points of aid.

References

[1] Mountain 3 (1969), page 7

[2] Mountain 4 (1969), page 29
Archangel E3 Solo | worked Apr 1971
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[2] On The Edge Issue 107, pa

[3] Mountain Issue 21, page 12
The Moon E3 Alternate Leads 17th Jun 1971
First ascent. 4 points of aid.
The Ghost E3 Alternate Leads 1973
With Tom Proctor.

References

[1] Mountain 28 (1973), page 16 /library/9632/mountain-28
Embankment 3 E3 Lead 1975
First ascent.
The Asp E3 Lead 1975
First ascent.
Delicatessen E2 Alternate Leads 1965
First ascent. With Jack Street.
The Preter E2 Lead | onsight 1st May 1966
First ascent.
The Last Gasp E2 Lead Jun 1967
First ascent. 1 point of aid.

References

[1] Crocker, M. (2017). Avon Gorge: Climbers’ Club
Red Square E2 Lead Jul 1967
First ascent.

References

[1] New Climbs (1968), page 122 /library/7218/new-climbs. Listed under 'V. Miscellaneous'!
The Strand E2 Lead 1st Oct 1967
First ascent.

References

[1] New Climbs (1968), page 51 /library/7218/new-climbs
Wuthering E2 Lead 1973
First ascent.
A Dream of White Horses HVS Alternate Leads | onsight Between 18th Oct 1968 and 19th Oct 1968
First ascent. With Dave Pearce.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade