Estado Crítico | 9a Sport route at Siurana |

Estado Crítico is notable for being the first ever 9a to be onsighted after Alex Megos climbed it in March 2012.

Although Ramón Julián Puigblanque suggested 9a when he made the first ascent it later settled to around 8c+/9a after several repeats (most notably a third go ascent from Adam Ondra and a second go ascent from Patxi Usobiaga). However around 2010 a hold broke and after reclimbing the route while working Golpe de Estado Adam suggested 9a was appropriate. Since then the grade has settled at 9a.

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Alex Megos
Added at 15:03 on 24 March 2023
Sonnie Trotter
Added at 16:05 on 11 May 2023
Will Smith
Added at 18:01 on 23 January 2021
Sébastien Berthe
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:10 on 12 October 2021


15 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ramón Julián Puigblanque Lead | worked 15th Mar 2004
First ascent. 10 sessions.
Nicolas Favresse Lead | worked 6th May 2004 8c+
Second ascent?
Dani Andrada Lead | worked 23rd Dec 2005 8c+/9a
Adam Ondra Lead | worked 7th Feb 2007 9a
Third go.

Adam suggested 8c+ at the time but after a subsequent ascent of Golpe de Estado he said it could warrant 9a due to some hold breakages.

Patxi Usobiaga Lead | worked 27th Nov 2007
Magnus Midtbø Lead | worked 25th Dec 2007
Enzo Oddo Lead | worked Jan 2012
Alex Megos Lead | onsight 24th Mar 2012

The first ever onsight of a 9a. Doubly impressive as up until that point the hardest route Alex had climbed was 9a.

Alex had originally planned to try La Rambla Extension but couldn't find the route from the topo and so got on Estado instead. When he reached the point where the route splits with Kalea Borroka he nearly went up Kalea instead as he felt very pumped, fortunately he persevered!



Sonnie Trotter Lead | worked 7th Apr 2015
Alizée Dufraisse Lead | worked 12th Apr 2017
Will Smith Lead | worked 11th Nov 2020
Štěpán Volf Lead | worked 4th Jan 2021
Will Bosi Lead | worked 24th Feb 2021
Sébastien Berthe Lead | worked Oct 2021
Victor Guillermin Lead | worked 29th Dec 2021