I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does Wimberry seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2]