Change Log for Dangermouse

Overview

Total Changes

5

First Change

3rd Jan 2021

Last Change

4th Jul 2024

Log

Date Time User Type Name Attribute
1 4th July 2024 09:01:58 remus ascent Miles Gibson notes
Before
> I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does Wimberry seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2] ### References [1] [https://vimeo.com/6824917](https://vimeo.com/6824917) [2] [https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/](https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/)
After
> I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does [Wimberry](/crag/131/wimberry-rocks) seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2] ### References [1] [https://vimeo.com/6824917](https://vimeo.com/6824917) [2] [https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/](https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -> I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does Wimberry seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2] +> I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does [Wimberry](/crag/131/wimberry-rocks) seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2] ### References
2 4th July 2024 09:01:58 remus ascent Miles Gibson notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does Wimberry seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://vimeo.com/6824917">https://vimeo.com/6824917</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/">https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does <a href="/crag/131/wimberry-rocks">Wimberry</a> seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://vimeo.com/6824917">https://vimeo.com/6824917</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/">https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/</a></p>
3 4th July 2024 09:00:18 remus ascent Miles Gibson notes
Before
### References [1] [https://vimeo.com/6824917](https://vimeo.com/6824917)
After
> I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does Wimberry seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2] ### References [1] [https://vimeo.com/6824917](https://vimeo.com/6824917) [2] [https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/](https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1,3 +1,7 @@ -### References - -[1] [https://vimeo.com/6824917](https://vimeo.com/6824917) +> I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does Wimberry seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2] + +### References + +[1] [https://vimeo.com/6824917](https://vimeo.com/6824917) + +[2] [https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/](https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/)
4 4th July 2024 09:00:18 remus ascent Miles Gibson notes_pretty
Before
<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://vimeo.com/6824917">https://vimeo.com/6824917</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does Wimberry seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://vimeo.com/6824917">https://vimeo.com/6824917</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/">https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/</a></p>
5 3rd January 2021 18:57:22 remus - - -
Before
None
After
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