Tequila Mockingbird | 7c+ Sport route at Chee Dale Lower


Also known as Gandalf le Magicien.

Originally climbed using yo-yo tactics it was later redpointed by Jean-Pierre Bouvier who renamed it Gandalf le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent, which did not sit very well with the local climbers of the time who viewed the frenchman's redpoint tactics as poor style. The new name and claim didn't stick.

Initially climbed with 2 bolts it has variously gained and lost bolts over the years, but now seems to have settled at 4.


[1] Peak Limestone North history supplement, page 49 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/DownloadHandler.ashx?id=1291

Contributors: remus


4 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ron Fawcett Lead | yo-yo May 1982 E6
First ascent.
Jerry Moffatt Lead | worked 1982
Second ascent.
Jean-Pierre Bouvier Lead | worked 1982 7c

1st free ascent (yo-yo is not free climbing in france). Renamed "Gandalf Le Magicien". French 7c. Harder than Little Plum (first pitch). Free.

Chris Gore:

Practising moves on an abseil rope is not considered climbing. You might as well top rope the route and then rename it!! And didn't you top rope Little Plum and consider it an ascent?

Phil Davidson Lead | worked 1984

In front of a young and impressionable Ben Moon.