Big Golden | 7C+ Boulder problem at Cuvier Rempart

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Jerry climbed the problem multiple times in full sun for the film The Real Thing. Pre-pads, he didn’t use the now standard high heel beta, campusing straight through the crux in an imperious display of power.

The Big Five in a day – with the harder Jerry Moffatt beta from The Real Thing.

Big Golden contains one fingery hard move of a left hand miserable crimp to a sloping right hand gaston. It is very old school and painful climbing, but this was besides the point. I had to take care of business. I knew of the high heel toe that people nowadays use, but I was determined to use Jerry's method. Foot on a small chip right in front of you, and power straight into the gaston, no tricks. After twenty minutes of spanking, I flipped the switch. Time to crush. I imagined what Jerry would have looked like crushing these small holds and tried to emulate him. I reached up to the small crimp letting it dig into my pointer finger. I cut my right heel toe out, fully baring the weight as I held the swing. Right foot up on the small chip and BAM! I snatched my right hand up to the sloping gaston as my body sagged, but my foot stayed on! I was climbing it beyond my belief. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/big-5_in_a_day_by_jumbo_landman-54967

[2] https://web.archive.org/web/20090302234315/http://usa.moonclimbing.com/Operation-Big-Five-n-885.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BCIXBK4sebO/

Big 5 in a day

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/03/climbing_the_fontainebleau_big_five_in_a_day-73626

All the big 5 in a day.

Big 5 in a day

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQB9O8UCnLH/