Archangel is the quintessential gritstone arête: bold, insecure and utterly compelling.
Don Whillans top-roped the line in 1954, pinching the arête face-on and gripping it between his knees, which had rubber inner-tubes attached them for grip. In 1971, Ed Drummond made the first ascent. With the benefit of chalk and rudimentary climbing shoes – though still no sticky rubber – he laybacked it on the left side. In 1985 he climbed it on the right side, naming it Don (E4).
Peak Rock:
Again and again, Ed Drummond found relatively reasonable solutions simply by experimenting. Even in 1972, Archangel wasn't as hard as many other gritstone routes. It was the concept of a blank unprotected arête and the sustained, technical laybacking required to subjugate it which had stopped earlier efforts. [1]
Matthew, in chapter 14, tells the story of the disciples seeing Jesus walk on the lake:
28 Peter called to Him 'Lord, if it is you, tell me to come to you over the water'. 'Come' said Jesus.
29 Peter stepped down from the boat and walked over the water towards Jesus.
30 But when he saw the strength of the gale he was seized with fear; and beginning to sink, he cried 'Save me, Lord.'
31 Jesus at once reached out and caught hold of him, and said, 'Why did you hesitate? How little faith you have!'This bible story serves well as an illustration of what you need to climb Archangel. It will confound the Book of Numbers. A man may well boulder 6c and redpoint 7c, but without faith he is no more likely to succeed than the man who has bouldered 5c, for without faith, even a rich man is more likely to get into the Kingdom of God than to climb Archangel. And you must have faith, not in the hand of god, but in thyself. [2]
No holds on Archangel? What are you talking about? It’s the biggest hold on the crag! [3]
[1] Peak Rock, Vertebrate Publishing, 2013
[2] On The Edge Issue 67, page 43
[3] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/any-shorties-done-stall.6000/#post-84556
5 successful ascents recorded.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Don Whillans | Top Rope | worked | 1954 | ||
|
Complete with rubber inner tubes on his knees for added grip! [1] References[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 44. |
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| Ron Fawcett | Lead | 1970s | ||
| Ed Drummond | Solo | worked | Apr 1971 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940 [2] On The Edge Issue 107, pa [3] Mountain Issue 21, page 12 |
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| Terry King | Solo | 1973 | ||
| Second ascent. | ||||
References[1] Mountain 30 (1973), page 14 /library/9634/mountain-30 |
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| Paul Ingham | Lead | 1979 | ||