Only the third ever route to be free climbed on El Capitan, after Salathé Wall and The Nose. Incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the North America Wall climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section.
[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800
7 recorded ascents.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thomas Huber | Alternate Leads | worked | Between 23rd Sep 1998 and 25th Sep 1998 | |
| Alex Huber | Alternate Leads | worked | Between 23rd Sep 1998 and 25th Sep 1998 | |
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First ascent. With Thomas Huber.
References[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 46 [2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800 |
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| Leo Houlding | Lead | worked | Oct 1998 | |
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Second ascent. With Patch Hammond.
An incredible ascent as Leo was extremely close to onsighting the entire route at a time when any free ascent on El Cap was notable. However, on the first pitch he grabbed a quickdraw at the end of a runout section on his first attempt before lowering back to the start of the pitch and reclimbing it. He also pulled on the first bolt of the second pitch to clean and inspect the holds on the hard section off the belay before then climbing it clean on his first attempt. [1]
References[1] Alpine Journal 2002 50-53 Houlding El Nino [2] On The Edge Issue 84, page 46 |
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| Yuji Hirayama | Lead | worked | Oct 2003 | |
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Yuji attempted to onsight the route falling twice. References[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/yuji-hirayama-repeats-el-nino.html |
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| Hayden Kennedy | Lead | worked | 2008 | |
| James McHaffie | Alternate Leads | worked | 2014 | |
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With Dan McManus.
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| Dan McManus | Alternate Leads | worked | 2014 | |
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With James McHaffie.
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