Eternal Flame | E8 Multi-pitch


25 pitches. Topos: PlanetMountain.

A pioneering route up Trango's Nameless Tower, encompassing hard free and mixed climbing at 6000m.

The route was established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, graded VI, 7b+, A2.

The whole route was freed by the Huber brothers in 2009, during an unprecedented spell of good weather, at 7c+.

Alexander Huber:

"There's no doubt we were extremely lucky. To be successful, so many different things have to fall into place. The weather was great which meant we could climb perfectly, up the cracks which were free of ice. I take my hat off to the achievement and free climbing instinct of the first ascenders. This route is a true enrichment for mountaineering. With "Eternal Flame" Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora have passed on the best and most beautiful free climb on the globe. We are thrilled that we could play a little part in developing this route!"

Contributors
TdG
47 contributions since 18th November 2025.
LeodF
18 contributions since 7th December 2023.
remus
17 contributions since 26th December 2022.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

9 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Milan Sykora Alternate Leads 1989
First ascent.
Kurt Albert Alternate Leads 1989
First ascent.
Christof Stiegler Alternate Leads 1989
First ascent.
Wolfgang Güllich Alternate Leads 1989
First ascent.
Alex Huber Alternate Leads | worked Between 11th Aug 2009 and 14th Aug 2009
With Thomas Huber. First free ascent.
Thomas Huber Alternate Leads | worked Between 11th Aug 2009 and 14th Aug 2009
With Alex Huber. First free ascent.
Jacopo Larcher Lead | flash Between 18th Jul 2022 and 23rd Jul 2022
Barbara Zangerl Lead | flash Between 18th Jul 2022 and 23rd Jul 2022
Stefano Ragazzo Rope Solo | worked Between 17th Jul 2024 and 26th Jul 2024

on the summit I knew I had just done something absurd, but at the same time, I didn't really take it in... it's difficult to explain, I don't know how else to put it. After so many days of bad weather, that morning the sun came out, I was excited, I saw K2 and thought about Silvia, I missed her. I also thought about those who had been on this route before me, and for a moment I felt close to them. It was cool. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/stefano-ragazzo-climbing-history-first-eternal-flame-rope-solo.html

[2] https://www.facebook.com/stefano.a.ragazzo/posts/10228515669970635?ref=embed_post