| Name | Type | # Changes | Last Updated | First Updated | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | The Nose | climb | 37 | 16th April 2026 | 13th November 2025 |
| 2 | Alice Cross | climber | 35 | 2nd May 2026 | 28th April 2026 |
| 3 | Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light | ascent | 33 | 9th October 2025 | 8th October 2025 |
| 4 | Freerider | climb | 31 | 5th December 2025 | 13th November 2025 |
| 5 | Frank Sacherer | climber | 31 | 16th April 2026 | 9th October 2025 |
| 6 | The Direct Line | climb | 28 | 1st January 2026 | 10th November 2025 |
| 7 | Muir Wall | climb | 27 | 10th November 2025 | 9th October 2025 |
| 8 | El Corazón | climb | 26 | 14th November 2025 | 13th November 2025 |
| 9 | Scott Cosgrove | climber | 25 | 9th December 2025 | 10th November 2025 |
| 10 | Mabel Barker | climber | 25 | 28th April 2026 | 28th April 2026 |
| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 981 | 16th April 2026 | 15:00:18 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | Pan Aroma | grade_id | |
|
Before
None
After
62
|
|||||||
| 982 | 16th April 2026 | 15:00:18 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | Pan Aroma | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<blockquote>
<p>the 8b+ pitch is 60m long, while the roof is breached with 11 new bolts. But the route is anything but a ladder of bolts. It's fairly demanding both physically and psychologically, you have to know how to climb above quite long run-outs.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Alex Huber</p>
|
|||||||
| 983 | 16th April 2026 | 15:00:18 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | Pan Aroma | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
> the 8b+ pitch is 60m long, while the roof is breached with 11 new bolts. But the route is anything but a ladder of bolts. It's fairly demanding both physically and psychologically, you have to know how to climb above quite long run-outs.
Alex Huber
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 984 | 16th April 2026 | 15:00:18 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | Pan Aroma | climb_type | |
|
Before
None
After
3
|
|||||||
| 985 | 16th April 2026 | 14:51:18 UTC | duncancritchley | ascent | Hansjörg Auer's ascent of The Hallucinogen Wall | notes | |
|
Before
First free ascent.
### References
[1] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html)
After
Free climbed at 5.13+ R in under ten hours after a three day ascent to work the crux pitches.
### References
[1] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 986 | 16th April 2026 | 14:51:18 UTC | duncancritchley | ascent | Hansjörg Auer's ascent of The Hallucinogen Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>First free ascent.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html</a></p>
After
<p>Free climbed at 5.13+ R in under ten hours after a three day ascent to work the crux pitches. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 987 | 16th April 2026 | 14:50:53 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | The Hallucinogen Wall | notes | |
|
Before
Originally an 5.10 A5 mixed free and aid climb. Free climbed at 5.13+ R in under ten hours after a three day ascent to work the crux pitches.
### References
[https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html)
After
Originally an 5.10 A5 mixed free and aid climb.
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 988 | 16th April 2026 | 14:50:53 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | The Hallucinogen Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Originally an 5.10 A5 mixed free and aid climb. Free climbed at 5.13+ R in under ten hours after a three day ascent to work the crux pitches. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html</a></p>
After
<p>Originally an 5.10 A5 mixed free and aid climb. </p>
|
|||||||
| 989 | 16th April 2026 | 14:50:10 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | The Hallucinogen Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<p>Originally an 5.10 A5 mixed free and aid climb. Free climbed at 5.13+ R in under ten hours after a three day ascent to work the crux pitches. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 990 | 16th April 2026 | 14:50:10 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | The Hallucinogen Wall | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
Originally an 5.10 A5 mixed free and aid climb. Free climbed at 5.13+ R in under ten hours after a three day ascent to work the crux pitches.
### References
[https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hallucinogen-wall-first-free-ascent-by-hansjorg-auer.html)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 991 | 16th April 2026 | 14:45:14 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | The Hallucinogen Wall | Alternate Grade | |
|
Before
None
After
15
|
|||||||
| 992 | 16th April 2026 | 14:41:28 UTC | duncancritchley | climber | Hansjörg Auer | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/remembering-hansjorg-auer-by-nicola-tondini.html">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/remembering-hansjorg-auer-by-nicola-tondini.html</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CcYSrhcJZ1H/">https://www.instagram.com/reel/CcYSrhcJZ1H/</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/remembering-hansjorg-auer-by-nicola-tondini.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/remembering-hansjorg-auer-by-nicola-tondini.html</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CcYSrhcJZ1H/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/reel/CcYSrhcJZ1H/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 993 | 16th April 2026 | 14:41:28 UTC | duncancritchley | climber | Hansjörg Auer | date_of_birth_start | |
|
Before
None
After
1984-02-18
|
|||||||
| 994 | 16th April 2026 | 14:41:28 UTC | duncancritchley | climber | Hansjörg Auer | date_of_birth_end | |
|
Before
None
After
1984-02-18
|
|||||||
| 995 | 16th April 2026 | 14:41:28 UTC | duncancritchley | climber | Hansjörg Auer | date_of_birth_pretty | |
|
Before
After
18th Feb 1984
|
|||||||
| 996 | 16th April 2026 | 14:41:28 UTC | duncancritchley | climber | Hansjörg Auer | age | |
|
Before
None
After
35
|
|||||||
| 997 | 16th April 2026 | 08:54:29 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | The Nose | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>The first ascent of <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> (A2) was mainly aided. Sections were freed by many different people, not always formally recorded, before Lynn Hill's landmark completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first freed by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in June 1967 after attempts in 1965 partnering <a href="/climber/3375/frank-sacherer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Frank Sacherer</a> who originally conceived they might be climbable without aid. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p>
<p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
After
<p>The first ascent of <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> (A2) was mainly aided. Sections were freed by many different people, not always formally recorded, before Lynn Hill's landmark completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first freed by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in June 1967 after attempts in 1965 partnering <a href="/climber/3375/frank-sacherer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Frank Sacherer</a> who originally conceived they might be climbable without aid. </p>
<p>In 1975 <a href="/climber/722/john-bachar" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Bachar</a>, <a href="/climber/1632/dale-bard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dale Bard</a> and <a href="/climber/720/ron-kauk" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ron Kauk</a> had climbed ~85% free, all bar 120m, at ~5.11+.</p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p>
<p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 998 | 16th April 2026 | 08:54:29 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | The Nose | notes | |
|
Before
The first ascent of [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) (A2) was mainly aided. Sections were freed by many different people, not always formally recorded, before Lynn Hill's landmark completely free ascent.
The Stoveleg Cracks were first freed by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in June 1967 after attempts in 1965 partnering [Frank Sacherer](/climber/3375/frank-sacherer) who originally conceived they might be climbable without aid.
In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.
In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this.
[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.
Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.
### References
[1] [https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/](https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/)
[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)
[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)
[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)
[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)
[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)
After
The first ascent of [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) (A2) was mainly aided. Sections were freed by many different people, not always formally recorded, before Lynn Hill's landmark completely free ascent.
The Stoveleg Cracks were first freed by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in June 1967 after attempts in 1965 partnering [Frank Sacherer](/climber/3375/frank-sacherer) who originally conceived they might be climbable without aid.
In 1975 [John Bachar](/climber/722/john-bachar), [Dale Bard](/climber/1632/dale-bard) and [Ron Kauk](/climber/720/ron-kauk) had climbed ~85% free, all bar 120m, at ~5.11+.
In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.
In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this.
[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.
Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.
### References
[1] [https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/](https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/)
[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)
[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)
[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)
[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)
[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 999 | 16th April 2026 | 08:48:39 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | The Nose | notes | |
|
Before
The first ascent of [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) (A2) was mainly aided. Sections were freed by many different people, not always formally recorded, before Lynn Hill's landmark completely free ascent.
The Stoveleg Cracks were first free climbed by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in June 1967 after failed attempts in 1965 partnering [Frank Sacherer](/climber/3375/frank-sacherer) who originally conceived they might be climbable without aid.
In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.
In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this.
[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.
Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.
### References
[1] [https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/](https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/)
[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)
[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)
[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)
[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)
[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)
After
The first ascent of [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) (A2) was mainly aided. Sections were freed by many different people, not always formally recorded, before Lynn Hill's landmark completely free ascent.
The Stoveleg Cracks were first freed by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in June 1967 after attempts in 1965 partnering [Frank Sacherer](/climber/3375/frank-sacherer) who originally conceived they might be climbable without aid.
In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.
In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this.
[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.
Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.
### References
[1] [https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/](https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/)
[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)
[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)
[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)
[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)
[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)
Diff
--- before
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| 1000 | 16th April 2026 | 08:48:39 UTC | duncancritchley | climb | The Nose | notes_pretty | |
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Before
<p>The first ascent of <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> (A2) was mainly aided. Sections were freed by many different people, not always formally recorded, before Lynn Hill's landmark completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first free climbed by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in June 1967 after failed attempts in 1965 partnering <a href="/climber/3375/frank-sacherer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Frank Sacherer</a> who originally conceived they might be climbable without aid. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p>
<p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
After
<p>The first ascent of <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> (A2) was mainly aided. Sections were freed by many different people, not always formally recorded, before Lynn Hill's landmark completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first freed by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in June 1967 after attempts in 1965 partnering <a href="/climber/3375/frank-sacherer" rel="noopener noreferrer">Frank Sacherer</a> who originally conceived they might be climbable without aid. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p>
<p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
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