Scott Cosgrove

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Fifth ascent.

Shortly after Kurt Smith.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/remembering-a-legend-scott-cosgrove/

First ascent. With Dave Schultz.

First ascent. 18 sessions.

Graded 13d at the time as Cosgrove had not yet climbed 5.14.

It took me somewhere like 18 days to do it, I think, I had never climb a 14a and the grade did not exist in California, but a 14a Euro-climber tried and failed on the line, shortly after my red-point. He later traveled to Smith Rock and climbed, JB Tribout, To Bolt or Not to Be, very quickly. So, I would say that Alan [Moore]'s rating should stand, as at the time I really didn't know what 13d or 14a was, just that it was damn hard for me and I had to give it a number.

I was in school, guiding full time and training, I had no time or money to go on the road and repeat other 14a, but spent the time climbing routes close to home. I named the climb after FDR plan to put America back to work in the Great Depression, but that metaphor was lost on the many rap bolt haters, who thought I was rubbing it in their face. I felt the small compromise in ethic would lead to higher numbers. (Scott Cosgrove in 2013, after the second ascent)

First ascent.

After using the Desert Shield as a work out I spent more and more time in the corridor trying to find the next line. Every route I checked never really worked out because of the quality of the rock; I had gotten so much flak for reinforcing some holds on Desert Shield with glue that I wanted to find a climb without such requirements. After many failed starts I found a line that started and ended on different features, but followed the desert varnish the entire way.

It really was like three different climbs in one; a 12C overhanging start got you to a 13B traverse to a desperate crux V10. With zero chance to rest you had to fire up another 13B section to finish the route.

The spring was dragging on and the temps raising, and still no red-point. I had all but given up for the season when, with a bloody hand and three failed red point burns that day, I decided against all logic to rest 50 minutes and try one last time.

Almost right away, I blew the first move and my finger burned, but climbing higher and higher I was feeling surprisingly solid, before I knew it, I was through the crux and on to the last 30' feet of solid 13B. The last move to the anchor is the easy, but I wasn't going anywhere, but somehow muster the power and with one mighty effort, nailed the 11A reach and clipped the anchor. After promising the late John Bachar never to glue in the Park again, I named the climb Integrity.

References

[1] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108277152/integrity

First ascent. With Annie Overlin.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200124402/