duncancritchley

	Name	Type	# Changes	Last Updated	First Updated
1	The Nose	climb	37	16th April 2026	13th November 2025
2	Alice Cross	climber	35	2nd May 2026	28th April 2026
3	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	ascent	33	9th October 2025	8th October 2025
4	Freerider	climb	31	5th December 2025	13th November 2025
5	Frank Sacherer	climber	31	16th April 2026	9th October 2025
6	The Direct Line	climb	28	1st January 2026	10th November 2025
7	Muir Wall	climb	27	10th November 2025	9th October 2025
8	El Corazón	climb	26	14th November 2025	13th November 2025
9	Scott Cosgrove	climber	25	9th December 2025	10th November 2025
10	Mabel Barker	climber	25	28th April 2026	28th April 2026

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
5521	9th October 2025	13:32:33 UTC	duncancritchley	climb	Muir Wall	grade_id
Before `None` After `430`
5522	9th October 2025	13:32:33 UTC	duncancritchley	climb	Muir Wall	climb_name
Before `None` After `Muir Wall`
5523	9th October 2025	13:25:19 UTC	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	notes
Before TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/) [2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339) [3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/) After TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/) [2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339) [3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. +TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. ### References`
5524	9th October 2025	13:25:19 UTC	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	notes_pretty
Before <p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p> After <p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p>
5525	9th October 2025	13:24:55 UTC	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	notes_pretty
Before `<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339</a></p>` After <p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p>
5526	9th October 2025	13:24:55 UTC	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	notes
Before `### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/) [2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)` After TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/) [2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339) [3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,5 +1,9 @@ +TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. + ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/) -[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339) +[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339) + +[3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/)
5527	9th October 2025	11:57:32 UTC	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	Date of Birth
Before `None` After `1936-04-26`
5528	9th October 2025	11:45:38 UTC	duncancritchley	climber	TM Herbert	Features In (Youtube Vid)
Before `None` After `https://youtu.be/cP8GMVoEpsA?si=cwgNkpDUU12sMKI_`
5529	9th October 2025	11:41:14 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) </p> <blockquote> <p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>): </p> <blockquote> <p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
5530	9th October 2025	11:41:14 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) +Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:
5531	9th October 2025	11:40:36 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) </p> <blockquote> <p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
5532	9th October 2025	11:40:36 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,10 +1,9 @@ -Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] +Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) +> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] +[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: -> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. - -[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) - +> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References
5533	9th October 2025	11:38:46 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. <a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
5534	9th October 2025	11:38:46 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,8 @@ Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] + > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. + [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)
5535	9th October 2025	11:38:14 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. <a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
5536	9th October 2025	11:38:14 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,7 +1,6 @@ Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. - [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)
5537	9th October 2025	11:37:43 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
5538	9th October 2025	11:37:43 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. -[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert) +[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)`
5539	9th October 2025	11:34:49 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p>TM Herbert</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
5540	9th October 2025	11:34:49 UTC	duncancritchley	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. TM Herbert ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. -TM Herbert +[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)`

Before

None

After

430

Before

None

After

Muir Wall

Before

TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/)

[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)

[3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/)

After

TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/)

[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)

[3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. 

+TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. 

 

 ### References

Before

<p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p>

After

<p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not his initials, according to his son Tom. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p>

Before

<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339</a></p>

After

<p>TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/">https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&amp;msg=289339#msg289339</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/">https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/</a></p>

Before

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/)

[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)

After

TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/)

[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)

[3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,5 +1,9 @@

+TM is the name on his birth certificate, not initials, according to his son, Tom. 

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/](https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tm-herbert/)

 

-[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)
+[2] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339)

+

+[3] [https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/](https://everloved.com/life-of/tm-herbert/obituary/)

Before

None

After

1936-04-26

Before

None

After

https://youtu.be/cP8GMVoEpsA?si=cwgNkpDUU12sMKI_

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) </p>
<blockquote>
<p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>): </p>
<blockquote>
<p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 
> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 


### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): 
> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 


### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 

+Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): 

 > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

 

 [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) </p>
<blockquote>
<p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]


> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 
> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 


### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,10 +1,9 @@

-Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

+Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 

+> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

 

+[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

 

-> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

-

-[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

-

+> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 

 

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
<a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]


> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,8 @@

 Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

 

+

 > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

+

 [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
<a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,7 +1,6 @@

 Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

 

 > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

-

 [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@

 

 > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

 

-[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)

+[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p>TM Herbert</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

TM Herbert



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@

 

 > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

 

-TM Herbert

+[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)

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