duncancritchley

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Top Contributions

Name Type # Changes Last Updated First Updated
1 The Nose climb 37 16th April 2026 13th November 2025
2 Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light ascent 33 9th October 2025 8th October 2025
3 Freerider climb 31 5th December 2025 13th November 2025
4 Frank Sacherer climber 31 16th April 2026 9th October 2025
5 The Direct Line climb 28 1st January 2026 10th November 2025
6 Muir Wall climb 27 10th November 2025 9th October 2025
7 El Corazón climb 26 14th November 2025 13th November 2025
8 Scott Cosgrove climber 25 9th December 2025 10th November 2025
9 John Salathé's ascent of Lost Arrow Chimney ascent 24 9th October 2025 9th October 2025
10 Steve Roper climber 24 10th October 2025 10th October 2025

Recent Contributions

Date Time User Type Name Attribute
2421 20th December 2025 11:09:52 UTC duncancritchley climber Alexander Adler notes_pretty
Before
<p>Dresden-based elite sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/</a></p>
After
<p>Dresden-based elite sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/unser-team/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/unser-team/</a></p>
2422 20th December 2025 11:05:22 UTC duncancritchley climber Alexander Adler notes
Before
Dresden-based sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995. ### References [1] [https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/](https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/)
After
Dresden-based elite sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995. ### References [1] [https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/](https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/)
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-Dresden-based sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995.
+Dresden-based elite sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995.

### References

2423 20th December 2025 11:05:22 UTC duncancritchley climber Alexander Adler notes_pretty
Before
<p>Dresden-based sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/</a></p>
After
<p>Dresden-based elite sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/</a></p>
2424 20th December 2025 11:04:55 UTC duncancritchley climber Alexander Adler climber_name
Before
Alex Adler
After
Alexander Adler
2425 20th December 2025 10:58:37 UTC duncancritchley climber Alexander Adler notes
Before
None
After
Dresden-based sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995. ### References [1] [https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/](https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/)
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@@ -1 +1,5 @@

-
+Dresden-based sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995.
+
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/](https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/)
2426 20th December 2025 10:58:37 UTC duncancritchley climber Alexander Adler notes_pretty
Before
None
After
<p>Dresden-based sport climber and completion climber in the early-mid 1990s. Opened the XXL' climbing wall in Dresden in 1995.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/</a></p>
2427 20th December 2025 10:50:53 UTC duncancritchley ascent Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet Ascent #
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3
2428 20th December 2025 10:50:53 UTC duncancritchley ascent Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet ascent_dt_end
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1993-01-01
2429 20th December 2025 10:50:53 UTC duncancritchley ascent Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet ascent_type_id
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1
2430 20th December 2025 10:50:53 UTC duncancritchley ascent Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet ascent_dt_start
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1992-01-01
2431 20th December 2025 10:50:53 UTC duncancritchley ascent Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet climb_id
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None
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518
2432 20th December 2025 10:50:53 UTC duncancritchley ascent Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet ascent_style_id
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None
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1
2433 20th December 2025 10:50:53 UTC duncancritchley ascent Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet notes
Before
None
After
### References [1] [https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/](https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/)
Diff
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-
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/](https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/)
2434 20th December 2025 10:50:53 UTC duncancritchley ascent Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet climber_id
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None
After
675
2435 20th December 2025 10:50:53 UTC duncancritchley ascent Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet notes_pretty
Before
None
After
<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.xxl-klettern.de/kletterschule/geschaeftsfuehrung/</a></p>
2436 19th December 2025 10:20:56 UTC duncancritchley climber Jean-Paul de St. Croix climber_name
Before
J.P. de St. Croix
After
Jean-Paul de St. Croix
2437 18th December 2025 21:06:26 UTC duncancritchley climb The Nose notes
Before
Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)
After
Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)
Diff
--- before

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@@ -4,9 +4,9 @@


In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

-In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this.
+In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this.

-[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.
+[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.

2438 18th December 2025 21:06:26 UTC duncancritchley climb The Nose notes_pretty
Before
<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p> <p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
After
<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p> <p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
2439 18th December 2025 20:55:24 UTC duncancritchley climb The Nose notes_pretty
Before
<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p> <p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
After
<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p> <p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
2440 18th December 2025 20:55:24 UTC duncancritchley climb The Nose notes
Before
Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)
After
Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -8,7 +8,7 @@


[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

-Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls
+Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.

### References

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