Mono

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	11173	22nd May 2025 – 19th September 2026	116	13	586	1083
2	France	3430	22nd May 2025 – 29th August 2026	32	13	172	326
3	USA	1770	30th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	26	56	167	88
4	Japan	1478	19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	14	25	107	73
5	Spain	319	31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026	3	9	35	13
6	Switzerland	229	31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026	2	5	21	15
7	New Zealand	216	19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	1	17	13
8	Canada	170	10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	9	25	3
9	Italy	166	12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026	2	7	19	7
10	Germany	151	8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026	4	6	10	5

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
2061	20th June 2026	09:25:07 UTC	Mono	climber	Lynn Hill	notes
Before [John Long](/climber/728/john-long): > I have been all over the world and have had the fortune of doing things with many special people, some famous, some anonymous. But the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill. The rest of us are just holding her rope. [2] Hill has experienced only one major accident in her climbing career. On May 9, 1989, she fell during a climb in Buoux, after forgetting to tie in, she fell 85 ft (25 m) into a tree, and was knocked unconscious, dislocated her left elbow and broke a bone in her foot. She had been training hard for the World Cup and had to stop competing for a few months to recover; she was devastated to miss the first World Cup in the sport. However, only six weeks after her fall, she was back climbing. ### References [1] [Half Dome, 1977](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3475645099168307) [2] [https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/](https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/) [3] Portrait by [Dean Fidelman](/climber/1628/dean-fidelman), 1997 [https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/) [4] Interview with [Natalie Berry](/climber/411/natalie-berry) for UKClimbing.com March 2017 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151) [5] Interview with [Hannah Morris](/climber/2425/hannah-morris), 2024 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE) [6] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/3pPhmAHHd46EAjdQkfb09Z?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/3pPhmAHHd46EAjdQkfb09Z?) [7] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/2xtdsDPQpUgz0nVde4a7Fs?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/2xtdsDPQpUgz0nVde4a7Fs?) After Lynn Hill is one of the most accomplished rock climbers of all time. Her pioneering ascents in the 1980s and '90s culminated in the first free ascent of [The Nose](/climb/6215/the-nose) on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan) – one of the most coveted challenges in climbing – in 1993. The infamous Changing Corners pitch is a masterclass of technical climbing which continues to challenge the very best today. Hill returned the following year to complete the whole climb in under 24 hours. Hill was the first woman to climb 7c, 7c+ and 8b+, and was at top of the comp game throughout the 1980s. [John Long](/climber/728/john-long): > I have been all over the world and have had the fortune of doing things with many special people, some famous, some anonymous. But the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill. The rest of us are just holding her rope. [2] Hill has experienced only one major accident in her climbing career. On May 9, 1989, she fell during a climb in Buoux, after forgetting to tie in, she fell 85 ft (25 m) into a tree, and was knocked unconscious, dislocated her left elbow and broke a bone in her foot. She had been training hard for the World Cup and had to stop competing for a few months to recover; she was devastated to miss the first World Cup in the sport. However, only six weeks after her fall, she was back climbing. ### References [1] [Half Dome, 1977](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3475645099168307) [2] [https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/](https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/) [3] Portrait by [Dean Fidelman](/climber/1628/dean-fidelman), 1997 [https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/) [4] Interview with [Natalie Berry](/climber/411/natalie-berry) for UKClimbing.com March 2017 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151) [5] Interview with [Hannah Morris](/climber/2425/hannah-morris), 2024 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE) [6] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/3pPhmAHHd46EAjdQkfb09Z?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/3pPhmAHHd46EAjdQkfb09Z?) [7] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/2xtdsDPQpUgz0nVde4a7Fs?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/2xtdsDPQpUgz0nVde4a7Fs?) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,3 +1,7 @@ +Lynn Hill is one of the most accomplished rock climbers of all time. Her pioneering ascents in the 1980s and '90s culminated in the first free ascent of [The Nose](/climb/6215/the-nose) on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan) – one of the most coveted challenges in climbing – in 1993. The infamous Changing Corners pitch is a masterclass of technical climbing which continues to challenge the very best today. Hill returned the following year to complete the whole climb in under 24 hours. + +Hill was the first woman to climb 7c, 7c+ and 8b+, and was at top of the comp game throughout the 1980s. + [John Long](/climber/728/john-long): > I have been all over the world and have had the fortune of doing things with many special people, some famous, some anonymous. But the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill. The rest of us are just holding her rope. [2]
2062	20th June 2026	08:09:56 UTC	Mono	climb	Burden of Dreams	notes
Before The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023. The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen): > At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) there and the rest is history. [1] In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. ### References [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/) After The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023. The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen): > At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) there and the rest is history. [1] In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. There has been some controversy around the raising of the landing to a potentially slightly easier pull-on position. To date, no-one has repeated the problem using Nalle’s original foot positions on the start. The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. ### References [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -8,6 +8,8 @@ At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. +There has been some controversy around the raising of the landing to a potentially slightly easier pull-on position. To date, no-one has repeated the problem using Nalle’s original foot positions on the start. + The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. ### References
2063	20th June 2026	08:09:56 UTC	Mono	climb	Burden of Dreams	notes_pretty
Before <p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p> <p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a> there and the rest is history. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p> <p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p> <p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p> After <p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p> <p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a> there and the rest is history. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p> <p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p> <p>There has been some controversy around the raising of the landing to a potentially slightly easier pull-on position. To date, no-one has repeated the problem using Nalle’s original foot positions on the start. </p> <p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>
2064	20th June 2026	08:06:27 UTC	Mono	climb	Burden of Dreams	notes_pretty
Before <p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p> <p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a> there and the rest is history. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p> <p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p> <p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p> After <p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p> <p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a> there and the rest is history. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p> <p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p> <p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>
2065	20th June 2026	08:06:27 UTC	Mono	climb	Burden of Dreams	notes
Before The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023. The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen): > At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) there and the rest is history. [1] In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. ### References [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/) After The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023. The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen): > At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) there and the rest is history. [1] In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. ### References [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. -At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. +At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session.
2066	20th June 2026	08:05:51 UTC	Mono	climb	Burden of Dreams	notes
Before The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023. The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen): > At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) there and the rest is history. [1] In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. ### References [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/) After The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023. The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen): > At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) there and the rest is history. [1] In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. ### References [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -6,6 +6,10 @@ In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. +At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. + +The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. + ### References [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)
2067	20th June 2026	08:05:51 UTC	Mono	climb	Burden of Dreams	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
2068	20th June 2026	08:05:51 UTC	Mono	climb	Burden of Dreams	notes_pretty
Before <p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p> <p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival">Nalle</a> there and the rest is history. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p> After <p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p> <p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a> there and the rest is history. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p> <p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p> <p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>
2069	20th June 2026	07:55:20 UTC	Mono	climber	John Gill	notes
Before John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it: > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/) [2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. [3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M) [5] Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt) After John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it: > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/) [2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. [3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M) [5] Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. +John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk.
2070	20th June 2026	07:55:20 UTC	Mono	climber	John Gill	notes_pretty
Before <p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p> <p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p> <p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p> <p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p> <blockquote> <p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p> </blockquote> <p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p> <p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p> After <p>John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p> <p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p> <p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p> <p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p> <blockquote> <p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p> </blockquote> <p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p> <p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>
2071	20th June 2026	07:55:03 UTC	Mono	climber	John Gill	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
2072	20th June 2026	07:53:53 UTC	Mono	climber	John Gill	notes
Before John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing. In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/) [2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. [3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M) [5] Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt) After John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it: > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/) [2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. [3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M) [5] Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,12 +1,14 @@ -John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. +John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. -With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing. +With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. -In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. +For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. -When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it +When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it: > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. + +Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. ### References
2073	20th June 2026	07:53:53 UTC	Mono	climber	John Gill	notes_pretty
Before <p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p> <p>With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.</p> <p>In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p> <p>When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins">Royal Robbins</a> said of it</p> <blockquote> <p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p> <p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p> After <p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p> <p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p> <p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p> <p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p> <blockquote> <p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p> </blockquote> <p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p> <p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>
2074	20th June 2026	07:39:36 UTC	Mono	climber	Ray Jardine	notes_pretty
Before <p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p> <p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p> <p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p> <p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p> After <p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a>, ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p> <p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p> <p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p> <p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>
2075	20th June 2026	07:39:36 UTC	Mono	climber	Ray Jardine	notes
Before Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world. On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated. More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as The Jardine Traverse as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/) After Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device), ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world. On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated. More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as The Jardine Traverse as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. +Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device), ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.
2076	20th June 2026	07:37:05 UTC	Mono	climber	Ray Jardine	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
2077	20th June 2026	07:36:32 UTC	Mono	climber	Ray Jardine	notes_pretty
Before <p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device">Cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p> <p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p> <p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p> After <p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p> <p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p> <p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p> <p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>
2078	20th June 2026	07:36:32 UTC	Mono	climber	Ray Jardine	notes
Before Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [Cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world. More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as The Jardine Traverse as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/) After Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world. On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated. More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as The Jardine Traverse as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,8 +1,12 @@ -Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [Cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. +Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world. +On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated. + More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as The Jardine Traverse as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier. + + ### References
2079	20th June 2026	07:30:49 UTC	Mono	climber	Aleister Crowley	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
2080	20th June 2026	07:28:31 UTC	Mono	climber	Shauna Coxsey	featurable
Before `false` After `true`

Before

[John Long](/climber/728/john-long):

> I have been all over the world and have had the fortune of doing things with many special people, some famous, some anonymous. But the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill. The rest of us are just holding her rope. [2]

Hill has experienced only one major accident in her climbing career. On May 9, 1989, she fell during a climb in Buoux, after forgetting to tie in, she fell 85 ft (25 m) into a tree, and was knocked unconscious, dislocated her left elbow and broke a bone in her foot. She had been training hard for the World Cup and had to stop competing for a few months to recover; she was devastated to miss the first World Cup in the sport. However, only six weeks after her fall, she was back climbing.

### References

[1] [Half Dome, 1977](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3475645099168307)

[2] [https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/](https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/)

[3] Portrait by [Dean Fidelman](/climber/1628/dean-fidelman), 1997 [https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/)

[4] Interview with [Natalie Berry](/climber/411/natalie-berry) for UKClimbing.com March 2017 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151)

[5] Interview with [Hannah Morris](/climber/2425/hannah-morris), 2024 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE)

[6] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/3pPhmAHHd46EAjdQkfb09Z?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/3pPhmAHHd46EAjdQkfb09Z?)

[7] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/2xtdsDPQpUgz0nVde4a7Fs?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/2xtdsDPQpUgz0nVde4a7Fs?)

After

Lynn Hill is one of the most accomplished rock climbers of all time. Her pioneering ascents in the 1980s and '90s culminated in the first free ascent of [The Nose](/climb/6215/the-nose) on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan) – one of the most coveted challenges in climbing – in 1993. The infamous Changing Corners pitch is a masterclass of technical climbing which continues to challenge the very best today. Hill returned the following year to complete the whole climb in under 24 hours.

Hill was the first woman to climb 7c, 7c+ and 8b+, and was at top of the comp game throughout the 1980s.

[John Long](/climber/728/john-long):

> I have been all over the world and have had the fortune of doing things with many special people, some famous, some anonymous. But the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill. The rest of us are just holding her rope. [2]

Hill has experienced only one major accident in her climbing career. On May 9, 1989, she fell during a climb in Buoux, after forgetting to tie in, she fell 85 ft (25 m) into a tree, and was knocked unconscious, dislocated her left elbow and broke a bone in her foot. She had been training hard for the World Cup and had to stop competing for a few months to recover; she was devastated to miss the first World Cup in the sport. However, only six weeks after her fall, she was back climbing.

### References

[1] [Half Dome, 1977](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3475645099168307)

[2] [https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/](https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/)

[3] Portrait by [Dean Fidelman](/climber/1628/dean-fidelman), 1997 [https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/)

[4] Interview with [Natalie Berry](/climber/411/natalie-berry) for UKClimbing.com March 2017 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151)

[5] Interview with [Hannah Morris](/climber/2425/hannah-morris), 2024 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE)

[6] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/3pPhmAHHd46EAjdQkfb09Z?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/3pPhmAHHd46EAjdQkfb09Z?)

[7] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/2xtdsDPQpUgz0nVde4a7Fs?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/2xtdsDPQpUgz0nVde4a7Fs?)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,3 +1,7 @@

+Lynn Hill is one of the most accomplished rock climbers of all time. Her pioneering ascents in the 1980s and '90s culminated in the first free ascent of [The Nose](/climb/6215/the-nose) on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan) – one of the most coveted challenges in climbing – in 1993. The infamous Changing Corners pitch is a masterclass of technical climbing which continues to challenge the very best today. Hill returned the following year to complete the whole climb in under 24 hours.

+

+Hill was the first woman to climb 7c, 7c+ and 8b+, and was at top of the comp game throughout the 1980s.

+

 [John Long](/climber/728/john-long):

 

 > I have been all over the world and have had the fortune of doing things with many special people, some famous, some anonymous. But the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill. The rest of us are just holding her rope. [2]

Before

The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023.

The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen):

> At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival)  there and the rest is history. [1]

In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. 

### References

[1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)

After

The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023.

The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen):

> At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival)  there and the rest is history. [1]

In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

There has been some controversy around the raising of the landing to a potentially slightly easier pull-on position. To date, no-one has repeated the problem using Nalle’s original foot positions on the start. 

The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. 

### References

[1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -8,6 +8,8 @@

 

 At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

 

+There has been some controversy around the raising of the landing to a potentially slightly easier pull-on position. To date, no-one has repeated the problem using Nalle’s original foot positions on the start. 

+

 The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. 

 

 ### References

Before

<p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p>
<p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a>  there and the rest is history. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p>
<p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p>
<p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>

After

<p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p>
<p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a>  there and the rest is history. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p>
<p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p>
<p>There has been some controversy around the raising of the landing to a potentially slightly easier pull-on position. To date, no-one has repeated the problem using Nalle’s original foot positions on the start. </p>
<p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>

Before

<p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p>
<p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a>  there and the rest is history. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p>
<p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p>
<p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>

After

<p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p>
<p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a>  there and the rest is history. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p>
<p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p>
<p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>

Before

The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023.

The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen):

> At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival)  there and the rest is history. [1]

In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. 

### References

[1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)

After

The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023.

The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen):

> At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival)  there and the rest is history. [1]

In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. 

### References

[1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@

 

 In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

 

-At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

+At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving the boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

 

 The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session.

Before

The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023.

The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen):

> At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival)  there and the rest is history. [1]

In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

### References

[1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)

After

The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023.

The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen):

> At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival)  there and the rest is history. [1]

In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. 

### References

[1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -6,6 +6,10 @@

 

 In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

 

+At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

+

+The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. 

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)

Before

false

After

true

Before

<p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p>
<p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival">Nalle</a>  there and the rest is history. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>

After

<p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p>
<p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a>  there and the rest is history. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p>
<p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p>
<p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>

Before

John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. 

For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it:

> I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.

Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/)

[2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.

[3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU)

[4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M)

[5] *Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer*, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt)

After

John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. 

For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it:

> I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.

Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/)

[2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.

[3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU)

[4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M)

[5] *Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer*, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

+John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

 

 With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk.

Before

<p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p>
<p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p>
<p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p>
<p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick,&nbsp;Dave.&nbsp;John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Vertebrate Publishing,&nbsp;2018.</p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p>
<p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>

After

<p>John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p>
<p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p>
<p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p>
<p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick,&nbsp;Dave.&nbsp;John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Vertebrate Publishing,&nbsp;2018.</p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p>
<p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>

Before

false

After

true

Before

John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.

In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it

> I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/)

[2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.

[3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU)

[4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M)

[5] *Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer*, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt)

After

John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. 

For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it:

> I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.

Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/)

[2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.

[3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU)

[4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M)

[5] *Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer*, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,12 +1,14 @@

-John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

+John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

 

-With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.

+With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. 

 

-In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

+For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

 

-When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it

+When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it:

 

 > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.

+

+Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. 

 

 ### References

Before

<p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p>
<p>With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.</p>
<p>In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p>
<p>When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins">Royal Robbins</a> said of it</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p>
<p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>

After

<p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p>
<p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p>
<p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p>
<p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick,&nbsp;Dave.&nbsp;John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Vertebrate Publishing,&nbsp;2018.</p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p>
<p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>

Before

<p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p>
<p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p>
<p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p>
<p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>

After

<p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a>, ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p>
<p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p>
<p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p>
<p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>

Before

Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.

More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as *The Jardine Traverse* as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.



### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/)

After

Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device), ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.

More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as *The Jardine Traverse* as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.



### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

+Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device), ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

 

 Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

Before

false

After

true

Before

<p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device">Cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p>
<p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p>
<p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>

After

<p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p>
<p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p>
<p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p>
<p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>

Before

Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [Cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as *The Jardine Traverse* as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.

### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/)

After

Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.

More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as *The Jardine Traverse* as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.



### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/)

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-Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [Cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

+Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

 

 Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

 

+On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.

+

 More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as *The Jardine Traverse* as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.

+

+

 

 ### References

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