Mono

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	11179	22nd May 2025 – 30th October 2026	117	13	586	1084
2	France	3482	22nd May 2025 – 2nd November 2026	32	13	175	330
3	USA	1774	30th July 2025 – 20th September 2026	26	56	167	88
4	Japan	1478	19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	14	25	107	73
5	Spain	319	31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026	3	9	35	13
6	Switzerland	229	31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026	2	5	21	15
7	New Zealand	216	19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	1	17	13
8	Canada	170	10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	9	25	3
9	Italy	166	12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026	2	7	19	7
10	Germany	151	8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026	4	6	10	5

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
2041	23rd June 2026	14:59:06 UTC	Mono	climb	Mushi	See Also
Before `None` After `5546`
2042	23rd June 2026	14:58:42 UTC	Mono	climb	Mushi	notes_pretty
Before <p>The second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after <a href="/climb/5544/kani" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kani</a>. </p> <p>First ascensionist <a href="/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toshimichi Kusano</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar Jerry Moffatt when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since.</p> <p>It wasn’t hard to see why. The first left-hand vertical hold is slick and tiny — enough to make most people give up right there. Still, I kept going. After that hold, I’d try lunging across from a left-hand crimp in a kind of cross move. No good. It didn’t feel possible.</p> <p>But I couldn’t stop thinking that maybe one day it would be. I started visiting Mitake more often. And really, at that point, that stunning and mysterious line felt like it belonged to me alone. There was no reason not to try.</p> <p>Then winter — the season when holds stay dry — came to an end. As always, spring brought a mix of urgency and doubt. Around then, I went to Mitake with Takahashi, a tall friend. We were trying to work the upper section, and he pushed me from below so I could stick to the wall. There was this tiny dimple I’d always noticed from the ground — I finally touched it. “This could work.”</p> <p>He pushed me up again, and this time I grabbed that dimple with my right hand and started the sequence. I launched my left hand for the lip — and stuck it. “It goes!”</p> <p>I can’t even remember if I went back for one more session or not, but now that I’d found the move, I was so excited to try again.</p> <p>It was a crisp, sunny day in May 1996. I felt good. I began my usual quiet warm-up. Every move on Mushi was big, but it wasn’t cold, so my body moved well. I matched my right hand to that little dimple. I still had strength. I popped to the lip. My hand stuck. From here, it was unknown territory. But the holds were clear, my body moved naturally — and I climbed it. I stood on top of the boulder.</p> <p>In Japanese, when someone is obsessed with something, we call them a bug for it — like a “climbing bug.” I wanted climbers to become bugs for climbing, and of course, to move across the rock like insects, freely and playfully. That’s why I named the line Mushi.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Mitake Bouldering Guide</p> After <p>One of the most celebrated and oft-tried testpieces in Japan, Mushi is a rite of passage. An obvious line at Tokyo's popular <a href="/crag/18512/mitake" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mitake</a> bouldering area, it was apparently tried by <a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a> on a flying visit in 1984. It took the extended efforts of Japanese bouldering pioneer <a href="/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toshimichi Kusano</a> to unlock the problem's secrets, creating the second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after <a href="/climb/5544/kani" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kani</a>. </p> <p><a href="/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toshimichi Kusano</a> recounts his process:</p> <blockquote> <p>After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar <a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a> when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since.</p> <p>It wasn’t hard to see why. The first left-hand vertical hold is slick and tiny — enough to make most people give up right there. Still, I kept going. After that hold, I’d try lunging across from a left-hand crimp in a kind of cross move. No good. It didn’t feel possible.</p> <p>But I couldn’t stop thinking that maybe one day it would be. I started visiting Mitake more often. And really, at that point, that stunning and mysterious line felt like it belonged to me alone. There was no reason not to try.</p> <p>Then winter — the season when holds stay dry — came to an end. As always, spring brought a mix of urgency and doubt. Around then, I went to Mitake with Takahashi, a tall friend. We were trying to work the upper section, and he pushed me from below so I could stick to the wall. There was this tiny dimple I’d always noticed from the ground — I finally touched it. “This could work.”</p> <p>He pushed me up again, and this time I grabbed that dimple with my right hand and started the sequence. I launched my left hand for the lip — and stuck it. “It goes!”</p> <p>I can’t even remember if I went back for one more session or not, but now that I’d found the move, I was so excited to try again.</p> <p>It was a crisp, sunny day in May 1996. I felt good. I began my usual quiet warm-up. Every move on Mushi was big, but it wasn’t cold, so my body moved well. I matched my right hand to that little dimple. I still had strength. I popped to the lip. My hand stuck. From here, it was unknown territory. But the holds were clear, my body moved naturally — and I climbed it. I stood on top of the boulder.</p> <p>In Japanese, when someone is obsessed with something, we call them a bug for it — like a “climbing bug.” I wanted climbers to become bugs for climbing, and of course, to move across the rock like insects, freely and playfully. That’s why I named the line Mushi.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Mitake Bouldering Guide</p>
2043	23rd June 2026	14:58:42 UTC	Mono	climb	Mushi	notes
Before The second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after [Kani](/climb/5544/kani). First ascensionist [Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano): > After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar Jerry Moffatt when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since. >It wasn’t hard to see why. The first left-hand vertical hold is slick and tiny — enough to make most people give up right there. Still, I kept going. After that hold, I’d try lunging across from a left-hand crimp in a kind of cross move. No good. It didn’t feel possible. >But I couldn’t stop thinking that maybe one day it would be. I started visiting Mitake more often. And really, at that point, that stunning and mysterious line felt like it belonged to me alone. There was no reason not to try. >Then winter — the season when holds stay dry — came to an end. As always, spring brought a mix of urgency and doubt. Around then, I went to Mitake with Takahashi, a tall friend. We were trying to work the upper section, and he pushed me from below so I could stick to the wall. There was this tiny dimple I’d always noticed from the ground — I finally touched it. “This could work.” >He pushed me up again, and this time I grabbed that dimple with my right hand and started the sequence. I launched my left hand for the lip — and stuck it. “It goes!” >I can’t even remember if I went back for one more session or not, but now that I’d found the move, I was so excited to try again. >It was a crisp, sunny day in May 1996. I felt good. I began my usual quiet warm-up. Every move on Mushi was big, but it wasn’t cold, so my body moved well. I matched my right hand to that little dimple. I still had strength. I popped to the lip. My hand stuck. From here, it was unknown territory. But the holds were clear, my body moved naturally — and I climbed it. I stood on top of the boulder. >In Japanese, when someone is obsessed with something, we call them a bug for it — like a “climbing bug.” I wanted climbers to become bugs for climbing, and of course, to move across the rock like insects, freely and playfully. That’s why I named the line Mushi. ### References [1] Mitake Bouldering Guide After One of the most celebrated and oft-tried testpieces in Japan, Mushi is a rite of passage. An obvious line at Tokyo's popular [Mitake](/crag/18512/mitake) bouldering area, it was apparently tried by [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt) on a flying visit in 1984. It took the extended efforts of Japanese bouldering pioneer [Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano) to unlock the problem's secrets, creating the second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after [Kani](/climb/5544/kani). [Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano) recounts his process: > After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt) when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since. >It wasn’t hard to see why. The first left-hand vertical hold is slick and tiny — enough to make most people give up right there. Still, I kept going. After that hold, I’d try lunging across from a left-hand crimp in a kind of cross move. No good. It didn’t feel possible. >But I couldn’t stop thinking that maybe one day it would be. I started visiting Mitake more often. And really, at that point, that stunning and mysterious line felt like it belonged to me alone. There was no reason not to try. >Then winter — the season when holds stay dry — came to an end. As always, spring brought a mix of urgency and doubt. Around then, I went to Mitake with Takahashi, a tall friend. We were trying to work the upper section, and he pushed me from below so I could stick to the wall. There was this tiny dimple I’d always noticed from the ground — I finally touched it. “This could work.” >He pushed me up again, and this time I grabbed that dimple with my right hand and started the sequence. I launched my left hand for the lip — and stuck it. “It goes!” >I can’t even remember if I went back for one more session or not, but now that I’d found the move, I was so excited to try again. >It was a crisp, sunny day in May 1996. I felt good. I began my usual quiet warm-up. Every move on Mushi was big, but it wasn’t cold, so my body moved well. I matched my right hand to that little dimple. I still had strength. I popped to the lip. My hand stuck. From here, it was unknown territory. But the holds were clear, my body moved naturally — and I climbed it. I stood on top of the boulder. >In Japanese, when someone is obsessed with something, we call them a bug for it — like a “climbing bug.” I wanted climbers to become bugs for climbing, and of course, to move across the rock like insects, freely and playfully. That’s why I named the line Mushi. ### References [1] Mitake Bouldering Guide Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,8 +1,8 @@ -The second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after [Kani](/climb/5544/kani). +One of the most celebrated and oft-tried testpieces in Japan, Mushi is a rite of passage. An obvious line at Tokyo's popular [Mitake](/crag/18512/mitake) bouldering area, it was apparently tried by [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt) on a flying visit in 1984. It took the extended efforts of Japanese bouldering pioneer [Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano) to unlock the problem's secrets, creating the second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after [Kani](/climb/5544/kani). -First ascensionist [Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano): +[Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano) recounts his process: -> After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar Jerry Moffatt when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since. +> After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt) when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since. >It wasn’t hard to see why. The first left-hand vertical hold is slick and tiny — enough to make most people give up right there. Still, I kept going. After that hold, I’d try lunging across from a left-hand crimp in a kind of cross move. No good. It didn’t feel possible.
2044	23rd June 2026	14:05:10 UTC	Mono	climb	Walk On By	notes_pretty
Before <p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p> <p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p> After <p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p> <p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <p>It took two decades and the steely fingers of <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon</a> to finally give the climb a second ascent.</p> <p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>
2045	23rd June 2026	14:05:10 UTC	Mono	climb	Walk On By	notes
Before So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c. The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 After So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c. The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. It took two decades and the steely fingers of [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon) to finally give the climb a second ascent. Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -6,6 +6,8 @@ >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. +It took two decades and the steely fingers of [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon) to finally give the climb a second ascent. + Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References
2046	23rd June 2026	14:03:16 UTC	Mono	climb	Walk On By	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
2047	23rd June 2026	14:02:53 UTC	Mono	climb	Walk On By	notes_pretty
Before <p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. </p> <p>It was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p> After <p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p> <p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>
2048	23rd June 2026	14:02:53 UTC	Mono	climb	Walk On By	notes
Before So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 After So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c. The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ -So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. +So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c. -It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: +The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.
2049	23rd June 2026	13:59:36 UTC	Mono	climb	Walk On By	notes_pretty
Before <p>One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start.</p> <p><a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p> After <p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. </p> <p>It was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>
2050	23rd June 2026	13:59:36 UTC	Mono	climb	Walk On By	notes
Before One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe): >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 After So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,11 +1,13 @@ -One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. +So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. -[Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe): +It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. +Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' + ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013
2051	23rd June 2026	13:32:39 UTC	Mono	climb	Le Carnage	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
2052	23rd June 2026	13:32:01 UTC	Mono	climb	Le Carnage	notes_pretty
Before <p>The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by <a href="/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jérôme Jean-Charles</a>, who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.</p> <p>Topo Bleau:</p> <blockquote> <p>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.</p> <p>But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0</a></p> <p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> issue 110, page 10</p> After <p>The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by <a href="/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jérôme Jean-Charles</a>, who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.</p> <p>Topo Bleau summarises the paradox:</p> <blockquote> <p>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.</p> <p>But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)</p> <p>Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0</a></p> <p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> issue 110, page 10</p>
2053	23rd June 2026	13:32:01 UTC	Mono	climb	Le Carnage	notes
Before The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock. Topo Bleau: >But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress. > But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1] In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2) ### References [1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0) [2] On The Edge issue 110, page 10 After The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock. Topo Bleau summarises the paradox: >But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress. > But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1] In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2) Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. ### References [1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0) [2] On The Edge issue 110, page 10 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ -The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock. +The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock. -Topo Bleau: +Topo Bleau summarises the paradox: >But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress. @@ -8,6 +8,8 @@ In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2) +Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. + ### References [1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0)
2054	23rd June 2026	12:48:35 UTC	Mono	ascent	Dave MacLeod's ascent of Rhapsody	notes_pretty
Before `<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198</a></p>` After <p>Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198</a></p>
2055	23rd June 2026	12:48:35 UTC	Mono	ascent	Dave MacLeod's ascent of Rhapsody	notes
Before `### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198)` After Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1,3 +1,5 @@ +Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. + ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8)`
2056	23rd June 2026	12:45:47 UTC	Mono	climb	Rhapsody	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
2057	23rd June 2026	12:44:37 UTC	Mono	climb	Rhapsody	notes_pretty
Before <p>Rhapsody is a trad route at <a href="/crag/189/dumbarton-rock">Dumbarton Rock</a> in Scotland first climbed by <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod">Dave MacLeod</a> in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls.</p> <p>The climb starts by climbing the majority of <a href="/climb/505/requiem">Requiem</a> (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]</p> <p>Around the time he made the second ascent <a href="/climber/617/sonnie-trotter">Sonnie Trotter</a> also added a variation called <a href="/climb/1322/direquiem">Direquiem</a> which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/287/e11">E11</a> 2006 film by <a href="/climber/1740/paul-diffley">Paul Diffley</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html">https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html</a></p> After <p>Rhapsody is a trad route at <a href="/crag/189/dumbarton-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dumbarton Rock</a> in Scotland first climbed by <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. </p> <p>The route starts by climbing the majority of <a href="/climb/505/requiem" rel="noopener noreferrer">Requiem</a> (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]</p> <p>The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. </p> <p>Around the time that he made the second ascent, <a href="/climber/617/sonnie-trotter" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sonnie Trotter</a> also added a variation called <a href="/climb/1322/direquiem" rel="noopener noreferrer">Direquiem</a> which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/287/e11" rel="noopener noreferrer">E11</a> 2006 film by <a href="/climber/1740/paul-diffley" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Diffley</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html</a></p>
2058	23rd June 2026	12:44:37 UTC	Mono	climb	Rhapsody	notes
Before Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls. The climb starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2] Around the time he made the second ascent [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag. ### References [1] [E11](/library/287/e11) 2006 film by [Paul Diffley](/climber/1740/paul-diffley) [2] [https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html](https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html) After Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. The route starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2] The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. Around the time that he made the second ascent, [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag. ### References [1] [E11](/library/287/e11) 2006 film by [Paul Diffley](/climber/1740/paul-diffley) [2] [https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html](https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,8 +1,10 @@ -Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls. +Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. -The climb starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2] +The route starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2] -Around the time he made the second ascent [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag. +The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. + +Around the time that he made the second ascent, [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag. ### References
2059	23rd June 2026	09:29:37 UTC	Mono	climber	James Pearson	notes_pretty
Before <p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p> <p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p> <p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p> <p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p> <p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. </p> <p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p> <p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p> <p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p> <p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p> After <p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p> <p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p> <p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p> <p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p> <p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. </p> <p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p> <p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p> <p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p> <p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p>
2060	23rd June 2026	09:29:37 UTC	Mono	climber	James Pearson	notes
Before Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson. As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb. He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024. Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing. As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C). ### References [1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4) [2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html) After Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson. As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb. He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024. Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing. As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C). ### References [1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4) [2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. -Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. +Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

Before

None

After

5546

Before

<p>The second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after <a href="/climb/5544/kani" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kani</a>. </p>
<p>First ascensionist <a href="/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toshimichi Kusano</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar Jerry Moffatt when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since.</p>
<p>It wasn’t hard to see why. The first left-hand vertical hold is slick and tiny — enough to make most people give up right there. Still, I kept going. After that hold, I’d try lunging across from a left-hand crimp in a kind of cross move. No good. It didn’t feel possible.</p>
<p>But I couldn’t stop thinking that maybe one day it would be. I started visiting Mitake more often. And really, at that point, that stunning and mysterious line felt like it belonged to me alone. There was no reason not to try.</p>
<p>Then winter — the season when holds stay dry — came to an end. As always, spring brought a mix of urgency and doubt. Around then, I went to Mitake with Takahashi, a tall friend. We were trying to work the upper section, and he pushed me from below so I could stick to the wall. There was this tiny dimple I’d always noticed from the ground — I finally touched it. “This could work.”</p>
<p>He pushed me up again, and this time I grabbed that dimple with my right hand and started the sequence. I launched my left hand for the lip — and stuck it. “It goes!”</p>
<p>I can’t even remember if I went back for one more session or not, but now that I’d found the move, I was so excited to try again.</p>
<p>It was a crisp, sunny day in May 1996. I felt good. I began my usual quiet warm-up. Every move on Mushi was big, but it wasn’t cold, so my body moved well. I matched my right hand to that little dimple. I still had strength. I popped to the lip. My hand stuck. From here, it was unknown territory. But the holds were clear, my body moved naturally — and I climbed it. I stood on top of the boulder.</p>
<p>In Japanese, when someone is obsessed with something, we call them a bug for it — like a “climbing bug.” I wanted climbers to become bugs for climbing, and of course, to move across the rock like insects, freely and playfully. That’s why I named the line Mushi.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Mitake Bouldering Guide</p>

After

<p>One of the most celebrated and oft-tried testpieces in Japan, Mushi is a rite of passage. An obvious line at Tokyo's popular <a href="/crag/18512/mitake" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mitake</a> bouldering area, it was apparently tried by <a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a> on a flying visit in 1984. It took the extended efforts of Japanese bouldering pioneer <a href="/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toshimichi Kusano</a> to unlock the problem's secrets, creating the second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after <a href="/climb/5544/kani" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kani</a>. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toshimichi Kusano</a> recounts his process:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar <a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a> when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since.</p>
<p>It wasn’t hard to see why. The first left-hand vertical hold is slick and tiny — enough to make most people give up right there. Still, I kept going. After that hold, I’d try lunging across from a left-hand crimp in a kind of cross move. No good. It didn’t feel possible.</p>
<p>But I couldn’t stop thinking that maybe one day it would be. I started visiting Mitake more often. And really, at that point, that stunning and mysterious line felt like it belonged to me alone. There was no reason not to try.</p>
<p>Then winter — the season when holds stay dry — came to an end. As always, spring brought a mix of urgency and doubt. Around then, I went to Mitake with Takahashi, a tall friend. We were trying to work the upper section, and he pushed me from below so I could stick to the wall. There was this tiny dimple I’d always noticed from the ground — I finally touched it. “This could work.”</p>
<p>He pushed me up again, and this time I grabbed that dimple with my right hand and started the sequence. I launched my left hand for the lip — and stuck it. “It goes!”</p>
<p>I can’t even remember if I went back for one more session or not, but now that I’d found the move, I was so excited to try again.</p>
<p>It was a crisp, sunny day in May 1996. I felt good. I began my usual quiet warm-up. Every move on Mushi was big, but it wasn’t cold, so my body moved well. I matched my right hand to that little dimple. I still had strength. I popped to the lip. My hand stuck. From here, it was unknown territory. But the holds were clear, my body moved naturally — and I climbed it. I stood on top of the boulder.</p>
<p>In Japanese, when someone is obsessed with something, we call them a bug for it — like a “climbing bug.” I wanted climbers to become bugs for climbing, and of course, to move across the rock like insects, freely and playfully. That’s why I named the line Mushi.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Mitake Bouldering Guide</p>

Before

The second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after [Kani](/climb/5544/kani). 

First ascensionist [Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano):

> After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar Jerry Moffatt when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since.

>It wasn’t hard to see why. The first left-hand vertical hold is slick and tiny — enough to make most people give up right there. Still, I kept going. After that hold, I’d try lunging across from a left-hand crimp in a kind of cross move. No good. It didn’t feel possible.

>But I couldn’t stop thinking that maybe one day it would be. I started visiting Mitake more often. And really, at that point, that stunning and mysterious line felt like it belonged to me alone. There was no reason not to try.

>Then winter — the season when holds stay dry — came to an end. As always, spring brought a mix of urgency and doubt. Around then, I went to Mitake with Takahashi, a tall friend. We were trying to work the upper section, and he pushed me from below so I could stick to the wall. There was this tiny dimple I’d always noticed from the ground — I finally touched it. “This could work.”

>He pushed me up again, and this time I grabbed that dimple with my right hand and started the sequence. I launched my left hand for the lip — and stuck it. “It goes!”

>I can’t even remember if I went back for one more session or not, but now that I’d found the move, I was so excited to try again.

>It was a crisp, sunny day in May 1996. I felt good. I began my usual quiet warm-up. Every move on Mushi was big, but it wasn’t cold, so my body moved well. I matched my right hand to that little dimple. I still had strength. I popped to the lip. My hand stuck. From here, it was unknown territory. But the holds were clear, my body moved naturally — and I climbed it. I stood on top of the boulder.

>In Japanese, when someone is obsessed with something, we call them a bug for it — like a “climbing bug.” I wanted climbers to become bugs for climbing, and of course, to move across the rock like insects, freely and playfully. That’s why I named the line Mushi.

### References

[1] Mitake Bouldering Guide

After

One of the most celebrated and oft-tried testpieces in Japan, Mushi is a rite of passage. An obvious line at Tokyo's popular [Mitake](/crag/18512/mitake) bouldering area, it was apparently tried by [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt) on a flying visit in 1984. It took the extended efforts of Japanese bouldering pioneer [Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano) to unlock the problem's secrets, creating the second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after [Kani](/climb/5544/kani). 

[Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano) recounts his process:

> After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt) when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since.

>It wasn’t hard to see why. The first left-hand vertical hold is slick and tiny — enough to make most people give up right there. Still, I kept going. After that hold, I’d try lunging across from a left-hand crimp in a kind of cross move. No good. It didn’t feel possible.

>But I couldn’t stop thinking that maybe one day it would be. I started visiting Mitake more often. And really, at that point, that stunning and mysterious line felt like it belonged to me alone. There was no reason not to try.

>Then winter — the season when holds stay dry — came to an end. As always, spring brought a mix of urgency and doubt. Around then, I went to Mitake with Takahashi, a tall friend. We were trying to work the upper section, and he pushed me from below so I could stick to the wall. There was this tiny dimple I’d always noticed from the ground — I finally touched it. “This could work.”

>He pushed me up again, and this time I grabbed that dimple with my right hand and started the sequence. I launched my left hand for the lip — and stuck it. “It goes!”

>I can’t even remember if I went back for one more session or not, but now that I’d found the move, I was so excited to try again.

>It was a crisp, sunny day in May 1996. I felt good. I began my usual quiet warm-up. Every move on Mushi was big, but it wasn’t cold, so my body moved well. I matched my right hand to that little dimple. I still had strength. I popped to the lip. My hand stuck. From here, it was unknown territory. But the holds were clear, my body moved naturally — and I climbed it. I stood on top of the boulder.

>In Japanese, when someone is obsessed with something, we call them a bug for it — like a “climbing bug.” I wanted climbers to become bugs for climbing, and of course, to move across the rock like insects, freely and playfully. That’s why I named the line Mushi.

### References

[1] Mitake Bouldering Guide

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,8 +1,8 @@

-The second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after [Kani](/climb/5544/kani). 

+One of the most celebrated and oft-tried testpieces in Japan, Mushi is a rite of passage. An obvious line at Tokyo's popular [Mitake](/crag/18512/mitake) bouldering area, it was apparently tried by [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt) on a flying visit in 1984. It took the extended efforts of Japanese bouldering pioneer [Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano) to unlock the problem's secrets, creating the second 3-Dan (7C+/8A) in Japan, after [Kani](/climb/5544/kani). 

 

-First ascensionist [Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano):

+[Toshimichi Kusano](/climber/3093/toshimichi-kusano) recounts his process:

 

-> After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar Jerry Moffatt when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since.

+> After 'Kani', I already knew what I wanted to try next. The line started on Ninja Gaeshi, then reached out toward a seductive lip hold that seemed to beckon climbers closer — this would become Mushi (“Bug”). It was a legendary line, said to have been spotted and attempted by the British superstar [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt) when he visited Japan in 1984. And yet no one had seriously tried it since.

 

 >It wasn’t hard to see why. The first left-hand vertical hold is slick and tiny — enough to make most people give up right there. Still, I kept going. After that hold, I’d try lunging across from a left-hand crimp in a kind of cross move. No good. It didn’t feel possible.

Before

<p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p>
<p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

After

<p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p>
<p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>It took two decades and the steely fingers of <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon</a> to finally give the climb a second ascent.</p>
<p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

Before

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.

The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

After

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.

The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

It took two decades and the steely fingers of [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon) to finally give the climb a second ascent.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -6,6 +6,8 @@

 

 >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

 

+It took two decades and the steely fingers of [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon) to finally give the climb a second ascent.

+

 Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

 

 ### References

Before

false

After

true

Before

<p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. </p>
<p>It was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

After

<p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p>
<p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

Before

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. 

It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

After

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.

The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

-So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. 

+So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.

 

-It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

+The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

 

 >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

Before

<p>One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

After

<p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. </p>
<p>It was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

Before

One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start.

[Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe):

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

After

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. 

It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,11 +1,13 @@

-One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start.

+So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. 

 

-[Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe):

+It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

 

 >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

 

 >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

 

+Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

+

 ### References

 

 [1] On Peak Rock, 2013

Before

false

After

true

Before

<p>The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by <a href="/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jérôme Jean-Charles</a>, who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.</p>
<p>Topo Bleau:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.</p>
<p>But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> issue 110, page 10</p>

After

<p>The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by <a href="/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jérôme Jean-Charles</a>, who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.</p>
<p>Topo Bleau summarises the paradox:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.</p>
<p>But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)</p>
<p>Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> issue 110, page 10</p>

Before

The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.

Topo Bleau:

>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.

> But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]

In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)

### References

[1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0)

[2] *On The Edge* issue 110, page 10

After

The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.

Topo Bleau summarises the paradox:

>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.

> But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]

In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)

Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. 

### References

[1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0)

[2] *On The Edge* issue 110, page 10

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

-The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.

+The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.

 

-Topo Bleau:

+Topo Bleau summarises the paradox:

 

 >But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.

 

@@ -8,6 +8,8 @@

 

 In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)

 

+Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. 

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0)

Before

<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198</a></p>

After

<p>Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198</a></p>

Before

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8)

[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198)

After

Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. 

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8)

[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,3 +1,5 @@

+Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. 

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8)

Before

false

After

true

Before

<p>Rhapsody is a trad route at <a href="/crag/189/dumbarton-rock">Dumbarton Rock</a> in Scotland first climbed by <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod">Dave MacLeod</a> in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time  and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls.</p>
<p>The climb starts by climbing the majority of <a href="/climb/505/requiem">Requiem</a> (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]</p>
<p>Around the time he made the second ascent <a href="/climber/617/sonnie-trotter">Sonnie Trotter</a> also added a variation called <a href="/climb/1322/direquiem">Direquiem</a> which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/287/e11">E11</a> 2006 film by <a href="/climber/1740/paul-diffley">Paul Diffley</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html">https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html</a></p>

After

<p>Rhapsody is a trad route at <a href="/crag/189/dumbarton-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dumbarton Rock</a> in Scotland first climbed by <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. </p>
<p>The route starts by climbing the majority of <a href="/climb/505/requiem" rel="noopener noreferrer">Requiem</a> (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]</p>
<p>The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. </p>
<p>Around the time that he made the second ascent, <a href="/climber/617/sonnie-trotter" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sonnie Trotter</a> also added a variation called <a href="/climb/1322/direquiem" rel="noopener noreferrer">Direquiem</a> which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/287/e11" rel="noopener noreferrer">E11</a> 2006 film by <a href="/climber/1740/paul-diffley" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Diffley</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html</a></p>

Before

Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time  and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls.

The climb starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]

Around the time he made the second ascent [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

### References

[1] [E11](/library/287/e11) 2006 film by [Paul Diffley](/climber/1740/paul-diffley)

[2] [https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html](https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html)

After

Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. 

The route starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]

The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. 

Around the time that he made the second ascent, [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

### References

[1] [E11](/library/287/e11) 2006 film by [Paul Diffley](/climber/1740/paul-diffley)

[2] [https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html](https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,8 +1,10 @@

-Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time  and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls.

+Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. 

 

-The climb starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]

+The route starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]

 

-Around the time he made the second ascent [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

+The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. 

+

+Around the time that he made the second ascent, [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p>
<p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p>
<p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p>
<p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p>
<p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. </p>
<p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p>
<p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p>
<p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p>
<p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p>

After

<p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p>
<p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p>
<p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p>
<p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p>
<p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. </p>
<p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p>
<p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p>
<p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p>
<p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p>

Before

Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.

As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). 

He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. 

In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. 

In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024.

Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.

As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C).

### References

[1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4)

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html)

After

Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.

As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). 

He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. 

In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. 

In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024.

Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.

As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C).

### References

[1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4)

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@

 

 In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

 

-Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. 

+Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. 

 

 In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

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