Apremont

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One day I was trying with Sébastien Frigault. He makes a good try, where he nearly reaches the right hand hold at the top. It had taken me 3 years to get to that point and for him a few sessions sufficed. I told him I was impressed and he answered "It is normal the old generation must leave place for the new." [Laughing] I got annoyed and did it next try. [1]

Facebook comment from Marc on Nalle's repeat:

Hello Nalle! It is cool to see your pic and drive for a new way to do the Alchemist. I remember this boulder as one of the greatest climb I ever did. The pinch was so wonderful to hold, as must be the slope you photographed. Of course, I resented very much the breaking of the holds, without having ever figured out what happened. With much encouragements!

Marc

PS. I did the first ascent in 1996 and repeated it the year after, in 1997, before the camera of the video Bleau. These are the only two ascents to date. [2]

Repeated in 1997 for the video.

References

[1] OTE

[2] https://www.facebook.com/hukkataival/photos/this-hold-makes-it-possible!/814307881916101/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIreNKro7QU?t=2565

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CN1hLG4A_4x/

References

[1] https://youtu.be/HIreNKro7QU?t=1452

References

[1] https://youtu.be/oDHerbdJDVI?t=89

First re-ascent after holds had broken, via a minor variation in line

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/z3Jp2fyEhM

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpqSruvP_U8

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/COcPQlsjd_m/

[2] https://vimeo.com/557330634

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rN7yJ1e8qoI