Bas Cuvier

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John Watson:

It is likely children scrambled over the rocks ever since Stone Age humans carved petroglyphs in the softer caves of sandstone while they waited out storms or simply rested after hunts. They are natural challenges to anyone wishing to prove their boldness, or maybe a natural soap-box for proclaiming and rallying, or simply for viewpoints and quiet reflection. However, the first attempt at any serious climbing began in 1874 when Ernest Cézanne created the French Alpine Club in Paris. They took trains to the nearby forest of Fontainebleau, climbing some of the easier and taller pinnacles, no doubt using them to 'keep their hand in' until the summer holidays. The shadow of the Alps still loomed over the boulders until something odd happened in 1908. A small group of climbers explored the forest and formed the Groupe Rochassier which actively sought out unique short climbs in Fontainebleau that did not necessarily need ropework. Jacques Wehrlin climbed one such route in 1908 which is the large crack left of the modern classic of Duroxmanie at Cuvier East. It might not appeal to the present-day boulderer (fashions change!), but it was certainly seen as a problematic climb that required focussed technique and employed the key elements of good climbing. Wehrlin himself noted in an essay that at Fontainebleau 'the sandstone is quite smooth and the holds are rare' which suggests he was looking for something more than just the summit experience - he was after the absence of holds and the idea of impossibility, long before the likes of Philippe Le Denmat, Jacky Godoffe, Fred Nicole and other such modern luminaries.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/voice_in_the_forest_-_fontainebleau-1478

Paragot's suggested grade was '6f' or 'VI h' [depending on source].

According to 'Fontainebleau: 100 ans d'escalade', before the war, Alpinists had introduced the I-VI system created by Willo Welzenbach in 1926 and capped at grade VI. Pierre Allain proposed splitting grade VI into 'VI a', 'VI b', 'VI c', 'VI d', etc, to allow 'grades to breathe again'. So La Joker, at the cutting edge of difficulty, was graded 'VI h'.

When the grades were rationalised and the seventh grade accepted, La Joker was graded VII-, later translated to 7a. It therefore retrospectively became the first 7 in the forest, a few years ahead of the first climb claimed at grade 7, L'Abattoir.

References

[1] Godoffe, Modica, 'Fontainebleau: 100 ans d'escalade', Éditions du Mont-Blanc, 2017, p.194

First 7B in the Forest. Chipped. Upgraded to 7B+ in 2001 after further chipping.

Bleau.info lists Ghersen as first ascentionist, whilst 7+8 2016 edition lists Godoffe.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C3qMkCwN5QU/?img_index=1

"A major step forward in slab climbing difficulty." – OTE Guide, 1997

Originally given 8A, according to Cosiroc history page.

References

[1] https://cosiroc.fr/index.php/histoire

7+8 guide (2016) lists FA data as 1990, but bleau.info has an ascent by Michel Gialdrone logged on 28/10/1989

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/charles-albert-ouvre-hypothese-assis-8c-charles-albert-opens-hypothese-assis-8c/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg_rm-G4PBQ

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4Q06z7Ngrq/