Climbs

Calum Muskett:

Redhead was known for limiting himself to two bolts per pitch. I asked him why it was he did this:

“[Joe] Brown’s dictum before had been two pegs! It seemed reasonable. I never did like bolts anyway!” […]

When I asked Redhead about what he would consider to be his magnum opus on slate he replied:

“Possibly Raped by Affection, for the name, yes, but also for the three 30ft falls from the single badly placed 2nd bolt! I persevered a third time thinking if I fall again the bolt would pull. On the first fall, I broke a little finger but taped it up. Prancing about in lycra tights pissing off the CEB (Central Electricity Board) corporate oppressors, throwing stones at the guards – never a better time to climb…”

Raped by Affection is on the Rainbow Slab, which is, perhaps, the premier sheet of slate in the quarries. 160 feet high and 300 feet wide; its smoothness is accentuated by the lack of cracks and features. Climbers have often wondered, awestruck, what exact combination of blast charges were used to create such a perfect shear. ‘Raped…’ tackles the central line of the slab and is protected by two bolts, the first of which is at 80 feet and an excruciatingly long reach off poor footholds. [1]

References

[1] https://www.muskettmountaineering.co.uk/writing/slate-of-the-art/

Do the start of Dreamtime then instead of going left along the lip go right as for Somnolence.

Named after first ascentionist François Legrand's late grandfather.

This problem had previously been climbed in 2010 and 2012, but as the sit had been climbed it was not considered an independent line. After a hold broke on Satan i Helvete in December 2013 the the assis has not been repeated, however Oriane Bertone managed to re-climb the low start in 2020.